Solar ready panel, who uses them?

[roofsolartexas]

I’m trying to find out more information on these solar ready Load centers. Tesla said I don’t require one, but may have read that some cities their building code requires them on a retrofit, and the old panel is used as a sub panel.

it was my understanding that Tesla will install their own stuff so A solar ready load center is not needed. I’m in the process of getting ready to have my electrical redone by my own electrician, so if I have to make changes I’d rather get it done now.

I don’t want to install a main and sub panel and find out on install day that I need a special solar ready panel. I’ve verified through my advisor, but I’ve learned they don’t always give the right information out. For example, they told me I could do a whole house back up using just my own panel and not needing a sub panel. I did the math, and there’s no way that would work unless I had at least 3 power walls.

I’m not fully understanding why some places require them on a retrofit if I read correctly, and if Tesla will install their own equipment if i should even consider.

I’m getting a GE 200 amp main installed, and I’m considering another GE 200 or 150 amp sub panel so I can use all the same breakers. GE doesn’t make a solar ready panel from what I can tell searching online.

Any help appreciated! Thanks.

 

[GenSao]

Check with your city on specific requirements. A solar ready load center is likely not needed.

Standard equipment is all you need. If you want flexibility to add more solar or batteries, upside the main and sub panel to 225 amps (use the same 200 A main feed).

What really matters is to have an ideal where and how Tesla isolates your home from the grid. Tesla typically places the provided energy gateway close to the meter. See below image for my setup. The energy gateway is to the right (past the small box) of my combo meter/non-backup load panel. The back up load panel is to the right of that with a electric gutter below for flexibility.

Any loads in the main panel that are backed up are typically spliced from the main panel and relocated to the new backup panel (provided by Tesla). This can get very messy. See below photo of all the splices in my main panel.

This was done because I had a combo meter and main panel. Depending on how you wire your home, you may be able to avoid or minimizing this by having only the sub-panel and any non backup loads in the main load panel. Alternatively you may chose to leave enough space between your meter and the main panel so Tesla can easily drop in the energy gateway between your meter and the main panel which would act as the backup load center.

In either case, Tesla will charge you the same flat cost. You may still want the main panel outside of the energy gateway for the flexibility to add non-backed up loads.

 

[roofsolartexas]

My Tesla advisor told me if I did the sub panel already they would probably adjust the pricing of the install. I do not want a rats nest of wiring, so this is why I would rather do two 200 amp panels.

I was going to have all the wiring done, so the kids that are backed up are already wired. I’m rewriting my house, these will all be new wires going into the sub for the back up loads. Basically, all the outlets and lights, fridge, microwave and a/c.

The main panel is primarily 220 volt loads and stuff I don’t need. For example, heater for the bathroom, certain outside receptacles, etc. I will actually wire in a 220 outlet next to my hot water heater, in the event power goes off for an extended period of time, I will be able to unplug the hot water heater with its dryer style 3 prong plug and plug it into the outlet next to it that is on back up. I thought about running it on back up, but theough my electricians advise, I won’t. I like to be ready and prepared though. I plan do to the same for the dryer, in a worst case scenario I can *sugar* off the other heavy loads and dry my clothes.

I would rather over do it then under do it. My sub panel right now, will have at least 20 circuits, with only two 220 volt circuits for the heat pump and evaporator.

 

[nwdiver]

My Tesla advisor told me if I did the sub panel already they would probably adjust the pricing of the install. I do not want a rats nest of wiring, so this is why I would rather do two 200 amp panels.

I was going to have all the wiring done, so the kids that are backed up are already wired. I’m rewriting my house, these will all be new wires going into the sub for the back up loads. Basically, all the outlets and lights, fridge, microwave and a/c.

The main panel is primarily 220 volt loads and stuff I don’t need. For example, heater for the bathroom, certain outside receptacles, etc. I will actually wire in a 220 outlet next to my hot water heater, in the event power goes off for an extended period of time, I will be able to unplug the hot water heater with its dryer style 3 prong plug and plug it into the outlet next to it that is on back up. I thought about running it on back up, but theough my electricians advise, I won’t. I like to be ready and prepared though. I plan do to the same for the dryer, in a worst case scenario I can *sugar* off the other heavy loads and dry my clothes.

I would rather over do it then under do it. My sub panel right now, will have at least 20 circuits, with only two 220 volt circuits for the heat pump and evaporator.

Have you looked into upgrading to heat pumps? That would make those loads easier to support off-grid and they use ~70% less energy on-grid. HD has a heat pump water heater for <$1k and you can get a heat pump dryer for ~$900.

 

[GenSao]

Awesome news that Tesla will give you a discount if you do the sub panel.

With two or three powerwalls you can easily have most of your 220/240 volt appliances backed up. I would include just about everything in the backup circuit (including exterior plugs, bathroom heater, etc.) with the exception of EV chargers. You can always turn off (or not use) high powered devices. Do keep a 40 A, 240 V plug connected to the backup panel to charge an EV in a pinch.

To reiterate, do consider your main and sub panel to have a bus-bar of 225 amps. Solar and batteries are subject to the 120% rule if connected in the backup sub panel.

(Busbar Rating (A) x 1.2) - Main Breaker Rating (A) = Max PV + Batteries (A)

225 A x 1.2 - 200 A = 70 A for Solar + Batteries
225 A x 1.2 - 150 A* = 120 A for Solar + Batteries

* Assuming de-rate the load into the sub panel.

Edit: I reread your post. Doubling up on circuits is awesome. Having the option of using either of the hot water heater or cloths dryer on the backup circuit while protecting your batteries from unintended draining is smart.

 

[CrazyRabbit]

...
To reiterate, do consider your main and sub panel to have a bus-bar of 225 amps. Solar and batteries are subject to the 120% rule if connected in the backup sub panel.
...t.

The generation panel must be connected to the bottom of the bus bars for this to apply, and only applies to top fed bus bars (opposite end). also must be labled "WARNING: INVERTER OUTPUT CONNECTION; DO NOT RELOCATE THIS OVERCURRENT DEVICE."

i'm starting to like a feeder line with load taps in a gutter.

 

[CrazyRabbit]

View attachment 541360

This was done because I had a combo meter and main panel. Depending on how you wire your home, you may be able to avoid or minimizing this by having only the sub-panel and any non backup loads in the main load panel. Alternatively you may chose to leave enough space between your meter and the main panel so Tesla can easily drop in the energy gateway between your meter and the main panel which would act as the backup load center..

i don't like the extensions, sorry, scary. i would rather have replaced the combo box with a load only panel/box to be backed up wired as it was before and add a separate meter pedestal that feds the gateway and then the new load panel.
that is exactly why i want to be included in decisions like this.

 

[roofsolartexas]

This is another reason why when all my wiring is pulled, the electrician will wire them in a separate panel for the back up loads. This why when Tesla comes, all they have to do is re-route their feeder wires and not molest or pick apart any of my wiring in my house.

Who ever comes out to do the install will want to get it done as quickly as possible and do the bare minimum. Their idea of essential and my idea of essential are different.

My situation is different than most. If you were building a new house or re-wiring a house, this would be the time to go in and do this. I did talk to Tesla again and my 200 AMP GE Panel would be fine. The electrician is coming tomorrow to discuss a 200 AMP main and 200 AMP back up sub panel.

 

[roofsolartexas]

As far as the heat pump hot water heater and dryer, I'm a single guy, and I'm not sure how my return on investment would be. I'm also not quite comfortable with the longevity of these machines, they are pricey and complex. Even if I do save on my power bill, the price of a service call and repairs after the warranty fails could exceed any savings.

 

[Kami Turky]

The NEC requires that all solar systems must be backfed into the service panel and you can't load your system with more than 120% of the main bus rating, which limits the maximum solar system size you can install.
Although this can be get around by derating the main breaker, it's not recommended, as it will limit the amount of energy you get from the grid and can cause some issues at night when your solar system isn't producing any power.
On the other hand, with solar ready panels you will no longer need to backfeed your solar system because it will route the solar system output (electricity) to the main breaker.
This way both the generated electricity and the grid electricity will be treated as one (just electricity) and it will help the main breaker to protect the bus from overloading no matter what size of solar system you have or how much electricity it generates.
For more information, check this article on what are solar ready panels and how do they work.

 

[Ampster]

On the other hand, with solar ready panels you will no longer need to backfeed your solar system because it will route the solar system output (electricity) to the main breaker.

I never backfeed my solar system and the output of the solar system is always routed to the main breaker, . My Solar ready panel contains a 200 Amp breaker and a 225 Amp rated busbar, I suppose you could say I have a 225 Amp panel that is derated to 200 Amps but derating is not that big of an issue. How many households actually use anywhere near their panel rating?