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just don't try vinyl on the back. doesn't work. its not flat under that holder once you take it offThat’s the first thing I’m doing when I (finally) get my Model 3 - those godawful Tesla frames are being ripped off, the black mount on the rear is coming off and completely plain plates (no green flash) being stuck on.
For a car so beautifully designed, and so minimalist inside/out, those silly frames are a terrible idea.
How do you plan to mount them - adhesive tape or bolts?Good to know! I've ordered a set of plain aluminium plates (not the pressed aluminium ones) from a seller on eBay which hopefully should look good
Hi Jason, I would disagree. I think it depends on vinyl and how to affix them. My worked out pretty well on Sept 2020 model and using bluetack to fill the void.just don't try vinyl on the back. doesn't work. its not flat under that holder once you take it off
How do you plan to mount them - adhesive tape or bolts?
I used bluetack and smoothened it by hand. It did not give the exact smooth finish (as I am sure sanding would do), but like you - I did not like the idea of sanding the paintwork. After affixing the vinyl you hardly see the gaps from the screw holes. TBH, affixing the vinyl without a wrinkles or air bubbles was a bigger problem for me than fixing the holes.On the subject of the number plates, what is the best way to fill the holes on the front bumper once you have removed the frame? I have a vinyl plate that I want to put on but seen a couple videos online about using filler but that requires sanding and just can’t think about sanding close to the paint work even if it will be covered. Is there something else anyone recommends to get a completely flat surface when filling?
Do the holes really matter, given that they will be covered by the new plate anyway and particularly if you stick the foam tape accross them they won't have any impact on the surface?On the subject of the number plates, what is the best way to fill the holes on the front bumper once you have removed the frame? I have a vinyl plate that I want to put on but seen a couple videos online about using filler but that requires sanding and just can’t think about sanding close to the paint work even if it will be covered. Is there something else anyone recommends to get a completely flat surface when filling?
No, annoyingly. The one on the front is the correct height for a UK plate but the rear one is taller so you either have to remove it completely (and stick the number plate directly to the car) or do what one YouTuber did and take a hacksaw to it to shorten it (wouldn’t be my choice)Once you've taken the rear surround off, isn't the back mounting plate smaller than the actual number plate, so you can just mount it via double sided tape directly to that?
I have seen some non Tesla related videos about Vinyl plates and using a wet solution rather than dry. This is supposed to make the air bubbles easy to get out and easier to move about to get it centred and straight.I used bluetack and smoothened it by hand. It did not give the exact smooth finish (as I am sure sanding would do), but like you - I did not like the idea of sanding the paintwork. After affixing the vinyl you hardly see the gaps from the screw holes. TBH, affixing the vinyl without a wrinkles or air bubbles was a bigger problem for me than fixing the holes.
There is a whole thread on Stick on number plates. An excellent post by @Roy W. describes how to use soap solution - I followed his instructions and have a perfect, bubble-free vinyl plate on my M3. But don't mount it too high or you can block the radar (see my post).I have seen some non Tesla related videos about Vinyl plates and using a wet solution rather than dry. This is supposed to make the air bubbles easy to get out and easier to move about to get it centred and straight.
I plan to film the whole process and publish it if it goes well......if you don't see me linking the video then you know what happened
Agree to that! I have to say it is a matter of practice. I did my back (easy) plate first and it is less perfect than the front which I did second. If I have to affix few more plates, the quality will certainly improve. The problem is when you watched all videos and then do it first time yourself. In my experience it is hardly same easy as on Youtube (but it could be just me).There is a whole thread on Stick on number plates. An excellent post by @Roy W. describes how to use soap solution - I followed his instructions and have a perfect, bubble-free vinyl plate on my M3. But don't mount it too high or you can block the radar (see my post).
Looks great. I purchased a vinyl plate for the front (not yet fitted), but much prefer the look of your plastic/metal plate attached to the front.Just done this. Very easy to do. Only took me 20 mins and most of that was prepping the surfaces and trying peel the damn backs off the 3M tape!
Looks infinitely better. I thought I'd got the rear plate slightly higher on the right but I measured and its spot on. I used a bit of electrical tape in all four corners of the original plate/holder to line it up right.