What Percent is Your Tesla Charged to While at Home?

[AAKEE]

85% once, 80% five times, below 30% three times, else always driven 30 - 75%, store at 57% a year ago now store 50%.

I don't think I ever was above the degradation threshold. Some packs are better than others. Maybe I'll get a new pack in next 6 years.

From the single cell perspective theres not a big difference between cells in initial capacity. The research shows that to us.
Also, the spread from cell to cell during cyclic sging and calendar aging is low.

From the EPA tests we se time after time that the packs mostly delivers close to the Full pack When New value.
Still, they was charged on day and sat overnight before the test which would cause the balancing process to use a little energy.

On a pack with many many cells, the infividula differences is eaten up and the only thing that might differ is from the manufacturing day differenses, or lots if you like to call it that. Even these differences are small.

I would say that most packs leaving the pack build-Department could deliver about the same as the EPA test.

I do not know with which SOC ypu get your cars delivered in US?

For overseas transportation, they are not allowed to ship above 50% anymore. I got my Plaid delivered with 42%.

It probably lived from build to delivery with not too high SOC.

We could calculate the most probable capacity for you car, from a estimated SOC value from build to delivery and then until today.

Its possible that your BMS has stayed off track and there are a few measures to check if the Bms Might be off.

First thing would be to check the SOC after a little larger charging session.
The set charging level will be a estimate as SOC can not positively be measured during a charge or a drive.

It would be preferable to charge at leaat 40-50%, and the before SOC is not important. If you for example charge to 80% from 30%, the SOC that the car end up with is of interest.
So the car estimates the energy to reach 80%, puts that energy in and probably write 80% on the display just when the charging is done. But if the car is left sleeping (no sentry etc) for ~ one hour and the SOC then is checked, the displayed number is telling us about the BMS estimation. If it is spot on, or under or overestimating it.
Scan my tesla can be used to get the SOC in 10th’s, which give us a more precise estimate.

 

[aerodyne]

From the single cell perspective theres not a big difference between cells in initial capacity. The research shows that to us.
Also, the spread from cell to cell during cyclic sging and calendar aging is low.

From the EPA tests we se time after time that the packs mostly delivers close to the Full pack When New value.
Still, they was charged on day and sat overnight before the test which would cause the balancing process to use a little energy.

On a pack with many many cells, the infividula differences is eaten up and the only thing that might differ is from the manufacturing day differenses, or lots if you like to call it that. Even these differences are small.

I would say that most packs leaving the pack build-Department could deliver about the same as the EPA test.

I do not know with which SOC ypu get your cars delivered in US?

For overseas transportation, they are not allowed to ship above 50% anymore. I got my Plaid delivered with 42%.

It probably lived from build to delivery with not too high SOC.

We could calculate the most probable capacity for you car, from a estimated SOC value from build to delivery and then until today.

Its possible that your BMS has stayed off track and there are a few measures to check if the Bms Might be off.

First thing would be to check the SOC after a little larger charging session.
The set charging level will be a estimate as SOC can not positively be measured during a charge or a drive.

It would be preferable to charge at leaat 40-50%, and the before SOC is not important. If you for example charge to 80% from 30%, the SOC that the car end up with is of interest

Scan my tesla can be used to get the SOC in 10th’s, which give us a more precise estimate.

In the case of the '23 MSLR, EPA discharge numbers are 98.267 vs 99.4 New Full Pack. Test car had about 4k miles.

I have done several charges with 30-50% added. Seemed to add a few miles of range, some of that I suspect is battery heating. I check after with SMT, sometimes a few days after, little change

My car at delivery was about 70% SoC, may have sat for 10 days after build.

With time, the fleet degradation might catch up to mine, or not. Teslafi fleet data is broken at the moment.

 

[AAKEE]

In the case of the '23 MSLR, EPA discharge numbers are 98.267 vs 99.4 New Full Pack. Test car had about 4k miles.

Yes, but the X LR pulled 100kWh, and the S Plaid 99.3/99.4 (two tests with different tyres). To my knowledge theres not different batteries.
Only getting 98.3 out of it might be because it had more imbalance which drained the battery slightly when balancing during the night. We do nit know.
Anyway, its far down to the degradation threshold.

I have done several charges with 30-50% added. Seemed to add a few miles of range, some of that I suspect is battery heating. I check after with SMT, sometimes a few days after, little change

My car at delivery was about 70% SoC, may have sat for 10 days after build.

Ten days at 70% is not that bad.

How old is the car now?

With time, the fleet degradation might catch up to mine, or not. Teslafi fleet data is broken at the moment.

I guess the pack is better than it seems.

Please test the charge to X % and check the end SOC result. It is very revealing.
For best result, let the car sleep at least 30 minutes before the charging.

I have many examples of this.
Here is my Plaid during the early days after delivery and a NFP of 95.7-96kWh.

Charging target 60%, ended up in reading 59.8% after the charge and only 59% slightly after. After a sleep, the SOC was 58%. The car doesnt use any SOC standing, only ~ 0.1kWh/ day.

The same is valid after a drive.
SOC is estimated during the drive amd adjusted when the resting voltage can be read.

This (first of the drives) drive ended with 37% displayed, one hour later the SOC was reading 39%.
The large adjustments vomes from the BMS being wrong.

The estimation during a drive is built on the estimated capacity. Used SOC in percentage is used kWh / estimated capacity.
Having wrong estimated capacity gives a fault in the estimated SOC, and this is corrected with the chamges we see.

We can even estimate the real capacity quite well, if we have scan my tesla.
I did that when my NFP still read 95.7 or 95.9, and i did get 98-98.3 kWh or so in a couple of similar longer drives.
The BMS ended up adjusting the NFP to 98.4, and for some time it was between 98-98.4 kWh.
I did this earlier on my M3P when the BMS went far of, and that calculation was checked and verified by a 100-0% drive.

So there is a quite easy was to check the capacity, that is proven to work good enough for hour purposes.

 

[aerodyne]

I have cross checked capacity and RR from consumption and data from Tessie, Teslafi, and TesLab, including charge energy added data and under varied temperature and storage conditions.

I have gone as high as 88% SoC twice. No data shows any improvement in capacity going higher than 70%.

SMT is most accurate, and showed a sudden loss of capacity last fall, when the car had about 8k miles and 18 months old.

Now at 21 months old and 12.5k miles, NFP is stabilized, 92.6, as mentioned before, with approx. 4% degradation in RR per Teslafi.

It's hard to learn, but to fully enjoy the car, one must ignore the three "D"s with Tesla:

Delivery, Degradation, and Depreciation!

 

[Quickst]

Delivery

Tesla ships its batteries at either <48% or <28% depending on mode of transport. This could be batteries without a car or batteries built in to a car

The latter includes air and high density shipping such as cars in a vehicle carrier by sea

I picked up mine in a delivery centre and it was connected to a Wall connector and still charging at 99%. I told the Tesla agent to keep it charging until it stops at 100% and charger removed when current delivered was zero.

 

[SigNC]

I'd rather nerd out about the battery (where there is some interesting science) than ceramic coating mumbo jumbo (where pseudoscience abounds)

Like I said, to each their own and I enjoy it myself. However, many people out there have zero interest in overthinking their vehicle so I just don't want it to steer people in the wrong direction thinking it's required.

Side note: I wonder what the overlap in the venn diagram is for people who baby their battery and used to be the oil analysis people.

 

[aerodyne]

Like I said, to each their own and I enjoy it myself. However, many people out there have zero interest in overthinking their vehicle so I just don't want it to steer people in the wrong direction thinking it's required.

Side note: I wonder what the overlap in the venn diagram is for people who baby their battery and used to be the oil analysis people.

100% for me. But the oil analysis got my car to 478k and counting, caught a coolant leak just in time.

 

[Quickst]

many people out there have zero interest in overthinking their vehicle

Sort of like the people overthinking their ceramic coating onthe paintwork?
Or how people overthink jack pucks for lifting the car?

Id rather nerd out on batteries - at least there is interesting science to learn and discover.

 

[SigNC]

Sort of like the people overthinking their ceramic coating onthe paintwork?

No, not at all. People in ICE vehicles are quite clear ceramic coating is not required to operate their car.

 

[Quickst]

People in ICE vehicles are quite clear ceramic coating is not required to operate their car.

You obviously have not seen the many people worried about their paintwork to the extent they are willing to speck $$$$ on ceramic coating, paint protection etc

 

[E90alex]

No, not at all. People in ICE vehicles are quite clear ceramic coating is not required to operate their car.

Ceramic coating and PPF are not unique to Tesla and has long existed before Tesla. Those topics are common in any enthusiast group, especially luxury or performance cars.

Usually people don’t consider those things for their Camry/Corolla/Civic/Accord/insert-regular-daily-driver. People that used to buy those plain transportation appliances upgraded to a Tesla which is likely their first new vehicle and/or most expensive auto purchase by far so they end up completely obsessing over keeping it pristine.

 

[Quickst]

obsessing over keeping it pristine.

I hardly ever wash my cars. Maybe once in 5 years or so. Often not at all. Only enough water to get rid of bird bombs and windscreen wipers

Dirt is a paint coating

 

[aerodyne]

I hardly ever wash my cars. Maybe once in 5 years or so. Often not at all. Only enough water to get rid of bird bombs and windscreen wipers

Dirt is a paint coating

True! As is oxidized paint!

Have not washed my 95 Acura in a couple years. Eventually the bugs fall off when they are no longer effective at protecting the paint.

On the '22 MS, has not seen water in a year. But, garaged and covered, detailed every week or so.

Almost no scratches, I'd compare it to any other 2 yr old car.

 

[flixden]

True! As is oxidized paint!

Have not washed my 95 Acura in a couple years. Eventually the bugs fall off when they are no longer effective at protecting the paint.

On the '22 MS, has not seen water in a year. But, garaged and covered, detailed every week or so.

Almost no scratches, I'd compare it to any other 2 yr old car.

Wow, I am overdoing it. Our Y is 8 month old now, and it was washed twice.

 

[AAKEE]

Like I said, to each their own and I enjoy it myself. However, many people out there have zero interest in overthinking their vehicle so I just don't want it to steer people in the wrong direction thinking it's required.

It’s a good thing to state that there is no need to do anything other than what Tesla says in the manuals.
I write that every now and then but writing it in every post will make the fingers cramp and mess up the posts readability.

There’s a lot of myths, and even the people stating that they never care at all about the battery still are fooled by the myths. This is a very common answer (in this case made up by me, but I see it often):

I dont care about the battery.

Just just charge to 80% and you will minimize degradation.

Dont go below 20%. If you charge to 100% drive asap otherwise the battery brakes

“Not caring” but still living by “rules” set by the myths.

 

[AAKEE]

Usually people don’t consider those things for their Camry/Corolla/Civic/Accord/insert-regular-daily-driver. People that used to buy those plain transportation appliances upgraded to a Tesla which is likely their first new vehicle and/or most expensive auto purchase by far so they end up completely obsessing over keeping it pristine.

I have used cheramic coating on my Audis.
Really good strong paint protected shines forever.

For my M3P (multicolor red) the paint was very very weak and if you starred at it with angry eyes the paint fell of. The look of the paint below the doors after 2.5 yrs and 66K km was a disaster. Not even comparable to my A5 Sportback after 12 years and 180K km.
So cheramic protection might protect the Tesla paint laying flaked on the street maybe.

I was not at all liking the idea of PPF but when I got the Plaid I got PPF as I feel the car needs it to have the paint survive and stay on the car.
(I did change my thoughts about PPF now)

 

[Rottenapplr]

How often do you wash the car?
How often do you rotate the tyres?

Every few weeks when it’s dirty. Every 10k mile, sometimes I forget. 121k miles on my model 3 2019. Still going strong. Charge to 80%.

 

[aerodyne]

Wow, I am overdoing it. Our Y is 8 month old now, and it was washed twice.

You would be surprised what a car duster, spray detailer, and garage can do, as long as you have another car to drive in poor weather.

 

[stopcrazypp]

It’s a good thing to state that there is no need to do anything other than what Tesla says in the manuals.
I write that every now and then but writing it in every post will make the fingers cramp and mess up the posts readability.

There’s a lot of myths, and even the people stating that they never care at all about the battery still are fooled by the myths. This is a very common answer (in this case made up by me, but I see it often):


“Not caring” but still living by “rules” set by the myths.

While the below 20% is a complete myth, doesn't the data you post of the pure storage tests (not with weird mixes of cycle testing which introduces a lot of other variables) show generally that pretty much the worst thing you can do is store it at 100% in high temperatures (especially for NMC), although at more moderate temperatures it matters less.

It should be noted Tesla have also always strongly recommended against charging to 100% unless absolutely necessary (to the point they do this in the charging UI, not just a suggestion somewhere in the manual), other than the tweak to address LFP capacity estimation. So if people are suggested to listen to Tesla, that's one of the main things they will learn.

 

[AAKEE]

While the below 20% is a complete myth, doesn't the data you post of the pure storage tests (not with weird mixes of cycle testing which introduces a lot of other variables) show generally that pretty much the worst thing you can do is store it at 100% in high temperatures (especially for NMC), although at more moderate temperatures it matters less.

Yes, for normal ambient temps there is not a big difference between any SOC between 70-100% for NCA and NMC. (same for LFP as well but from 75-80%)

High temps are worse on all SOC, but as calendar aging is [time x temp x SOC], in general high temps togheter with high SOC is not the best idea.

There is a lot of research ´data showing that about 80% is worse than 100% for Panasonic NCA so its not always 100% that is the worst SOC, and for most 80% is about as bad as 80%, and never ever even close to "the best".

This is actual Tesla model S cells taken from a almost new S about 2016. See that 80% is worse than 100% at all temp ranges.

It should be noted Tesla have also always strongly recommended against charging to 100% unless absolutely necessary (to the point they do this in the charging UI, not just a suggestion somewhere in the manual), other than the tweak to address LFP capacity estimation. So if people are suggested to listen to Tesla, that's one of the main things they will learn.

I do not agree with the "strongly recommend against" charging to 100%. That must be how you interpreted the information.

If you remember the time before changing daily to 80%, it was "below 90%".
In both cases they state that daily should be 80 or below 90% and for trips more is okey, as per the need.

We know that using 80% every day will cause much more degradation than charging to 100% whenever a longer trip give us the need to do this.
The main idea is that if you do not charge over 80% most of the days, then whatever you do, the cycle size (or depth of discharge if you so like) will not be 100%.


All recommendations Tesla give is for both NCA and NMC/A for those cars, and it also covers all over the world at all different climate and temperatures.
They all make sense against the research, if you read them as they are stated and not add own interpretations to the advices.