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Wheels spacers for PLAID + 21” Arachnids?

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The difference between the GTR and the Plaid is the Plaid has far more torque off idle and it weighs a lot more than a GTR. This can greatly exacerbate the stress put on the wheels. I don't know how severe the usage is for anyone running spacers so maybe someone who is using them will have personal experience of a particular brand. When I lived in Europe the TUV-approved ones were the ones my friends would look for as they actually had to go through testing to be approved for use on the car. They cost more of course.

Given the loads Teslas can put on them I'd be even more inclined to find the best ones I can. I've seen some pretty spectacular failures of spacers so I just avoid them personally now.

Hopefully you find what you need.
Fair points, thanks. The BONOSS ones are TÜV tested are hub-centric, and seem to be well-made from forged 6061-T6 aluminum, and use ISO grade studs and nuts. But like you say, this is a different machine than most cars, with much more torque. I don't know what kind of testing they put them through and whether it's comparable to this fitment, but they do seem the best ones I've seen. I'm not going to race the car (although I know people do race using spacers), so for my application, I'd think they'll be ok. If I was going to really track it, though, I'd definitely use track wheels. It's just not worth getting another set of wheels for my planned use, though.

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Seems like you might have a very good use case for street use of high-quality spacers. I'd definitely feel more comfortable with any spacer that went through a standardized testing process and TUV has generally been pretty good. I really don't think that most of the testing agencies had a Plaid in mind when doing their testing. :cool: You seem more than smart enough to understand the limits of any testing program but at least it is a way to help inform your decision.

I know I'd worry about buying spacers from Billy Bob Joe's House of Spacers unless Billy Bob was the brother of someone like Smokey Yunick.
 
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I'm running Bonoss 20mm rear and 15mm front on my Plaid. Very happy with look, quality. No issues, no rubbing. I'm also running n2itive lowering links.

I ran them in the past on my p100d for years and had great experience there too.
 

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I'm running Bonoss 20mm rear and 15mm front on my Plaid. Very happy with look, quality. No issues, no rubbing. I'm also running n2itive lowering links.

I ran them in the past on my p100d for years and had great experience there too.
Looks great. Got any other pics from different angles? I'm planning on using that exact setup, would love to see a preview!
 
Hi, completely no0b question in anticipation of my S Plaid with 21" Arachnid wheels being delivered in a couple of weeks.

This thread is a little confusing as to the optimal setup for being flush front and rear, especially in regards to the minimal thickness the spacers have to be to work and whether the offset is the same front and rear. Some people say they're happy with 20/20, others with 15/20, so it's hard to figure out the best setup.

That aside, my question is a little different ...

Does anyone know the max size of simple hub centric puck spacers (without adaptor bolts) that can be used and still get a minimum of seven or eight full turns of the bolts? Meaning if I gave up on being flush but just wanted a slightly better stance, can I use 8 or 10mm slide in spacers and still have enough bolt exposed for safety?

Thanks.

I'm referring to this type of spacer:

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that’s horrible, i ordered direct from bonoss and received it in 2 days! yes they were on my MS, 2021 so i had to trim my rear studs a little.
Early builds had a conical tip to the factory studs that have to be shaved before spacers will fit. Later builds (unsure exactly when the change was made but at minimum from 7/22) don't have a tip and 18mm spacers will fit fine behind the factory wheels. I have a set of 18mm UPD spacers off my Plaid for sale on the TMC marketplace.
Cuz this guy earlier in the thread said 18mm minimum. Why I'm a lil hesitant. I don't have jacks and good garage space to pull my wheel out to measure and stuff here in Taiwan.

And I actually got a response from BONOSS. They basically said if I buy from their Taobao store with Taiwan as a 'province of China' then it should work lol. Because their official site only service 'international customers'. I guess Taiwan is considered domestic 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
For reference, I have 18mm on the front and had to shave the studs down. I don’t have any spacers on the rear. I’m running N2itive links and rear camber arms. Links are 5.5 front, and 7.5 rear. My rear camber is -0.7. I just followed the recommended alignment specs from N2itive
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For reference, I have 18mm on the front and had to shave the studs down. I don’t have any spacers on the rear. I’m running N2itive links and rear camber arms. Links are 5.5 front, and 7.5 rear. My rear camber is -0.7. I just followed the recommended alignment specs from N2itiveView attachment 1031989View attachment 1031988
really? i had 15mm spacers up front and did not have to shave the studs down. there was enough clearance between the original bolts and the inside face pockets of the rim. very odd... i've only heard of people having to shave the rear studs down, which was my case too actually.
 
really? i had 15mm spacers up front and did not have to shave the studs down. there was enough clearance between the original bolts and the inside face pockets of the rim. very odd... i've only heard of people having to shave the rear studs down, which was my case too actually.

Model S Refresh used to come with 25mm front and 38mm rear studs. 2022 or newer build date come with 25mm studs all around.
 
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