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Wind noise and nonadjustable front door hinge

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Hello, there is a wind noise coming from the driver's side front door. I've narrowed the culprit down to the weatherstrip on the part where the mirror is attached. If I tape this seam on the outside, the sound disappears.
I looked from service.tesla.com how to adjust the door inwards so the weather strips sits against body more tightly, but it seems that hinges on my 23 LR from Berlin differs from what it should be at least according to the service manual. The door hinge has only one bolt, instead of two and the hinge seems not to be adjustable.
IMG_20230601_171138.jpg


How is it possible that the hinge is different from other Y's?

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So this is the part which "leaks" the wind. Any suggestions what to do next? Tesla service told me that the wind noise is normal. This case is not.
 
Hello, there is a wind noise coming from the driver's side front door. I've narrowed the culprit down to the weatherstrip on the part where the mirror is attached. If I tape this seam on the outside, the sound disappears.
I looked from service.tesla.com how to adjust the door inwards so the weather strips sits against body more tightly, but it seems that hinges on my 23 LR from Berlin differs from what it should be at least according to the service manual. The door hinge has only one bolt, instead of two and the hinge seems not to be adjustable.
View attachment 944090

How is it possible that the hinge is different from other Y's?

View attachment 944091

So this is the part which "leaks" the wind. Any suggestions what to do next? Tesla service told me that the wind noise is normal. This case is not.
You can tighten the door on the opening end. It was helpful for the wind noises on my 2022 M3P.
You loosen the loop on the car body side. Lightly tap with a soft mallet to move it a tiny bit inwards.
I marked mine with electrical tape so I could restore position if there was any alignment issue.

I don't know and haven't tried to tighten the door on the hinged end.
Old cars had the ability to move the hinges as well. I don't know about the Tesla. It's also very risky. Once the hinges are loosened, it's very hard to realign again.
My guess is that you loosen that bolt and the entire hinge will float a little. The weight of the door will cause it to drop out of position.

I had Tesla replace the entire rubber gasket going around the entire door.
That definitely helped.
I also tightened the door on the opening side of the door. It now closes tighter than stock.
That also did help.
But there's general wind noises, less in my ear now, and less loud, that I cannot locate. They are less annoying than before.

It's difficult to understand what we are looking at in your second picture.
It's so close up that I cannot orientate myself when looking at it.

Where's the mirror assembly?
I think you said or meant that it's the mirror assembly leaking air and not the window?
How will tightening the door resolve a gasket to the mirror?

I looked at my car and see if I can figure this out.
It seems the mirror imitation glass/plastic isn't that tight onto the rubber gasket.
Maybe that's what you are trying to point out?

Thanks
 
Thank you Georgesb2 for your advices.

I thought that the culprip for the wind noise is the inner rubber seal of "the window triangle", but it wasn't the case.

After unsuccesfull tries I tried to press inwards this rubber seal when the windows was open and it did help! It leaks again, because when the windows is closing it pushes the seal to open, but its better than before. I don't know how to modify it so that it stays more close to the window.
 

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Thank you Georgesb2 for your advices.

I thought that the culprip for the wind noise is the inner rubber seal of "the window triangle", but it wasn't the case.

After unsuccesfull tries I tried to press inwards this rubber seal when the windows was open and it did help! It leaks again, because when the windows is closing it pushes the seal to open, but its better than before. I don't know how to modify it so that it stays more close to the window.
I would suggest first trying to close the door a smidge tighter.
That's done on the open end of the door.
There's a hoop connected to the pillar.
Mark it out with electrical tape, so you know exactly where it was.
With a torque and possibly a long ratchet arm to loosen it.
It won't move even after the torque bolt is loosened a bit.
Just tap it with a rubber mallet inwards towards the interior.
Then tighten the bolt back in.
This will make the door shut tighter. With a much greater effect on the opening end. But it might help. Not sure.
Tightening the door on the hinge end is far more difficult. I don't know Tesla build well enough yet to make a suggestion.
Another possibility is to purchase a complete new rubber surround from Tesla. They are relatively easy to install.
Always check that the rubber is installed fully and correctly.
If the car is more than a year old, it might need to have the rubber treated. There's an expensive non silicone based rubber treatment available.
Lastly, we may have to glue/seal the rubber in its proper place. There's the high end black "super weatherstrip adhesive", window rubber adhesive at auto parts stores. You have to be careful and kind of know what you are doing. ...

I haven't tackled that area yet, but I likely will. My focus has been the top of the window, close to my left ear. It used to be awful noise.

Sincerely,
George Borrelli
 
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Subaru has issues in a similar mirror gasket areas. Idk for sure if the fix is similar on a Tesla but it is possibly a simple fix. They disassembled the mirror area of trim plastic then used a large C-clamp to squeeze in the mirror trim area so it sits tight against the glass. The video shows this at around 4:30 mark.
Here are some screenshots of that video that show the C-clamp in use.
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