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I'd have walked away and waited until an actual car manufacturer made electric cars.

Inside that thing there is a Neurio power meter, which connects via Wi-Fi to the gateway computer. So, the meter is a client to the gateway's AP. If you do a Wi-Fi packet capture, you'll see this data in the air. The interference you'll be seeing will not just be beacons, but the actual power...

I also recently got a Thrifty loaner car... with almost no petrol in it, and bald tyres (which I didn't noticed until I got home otherwise I wouldn't have accepted it). It seems that service isn't what it used to be.

Haha, I know exactly what you mean. You'll have to be careful though, because mine is wired (never set up Wi-Fi on it), and it had the cellular too. My mobile reception is bad here, and so the mobile connection kept coming up and down. If the gateway is on the same wired subnet as your home...

You are using yours as a wireless client, so of course it will follow your access point (what you're calling a base station). It's internal AP will use the same channel as it is as a client because it only has the one radio, hence yours would be stable. Mine is not connected to my home Wi-Fi...

It's 802.11g my friend. Here's a capture of a beacon for you. At least it's on channel 11 at the moment, but that often changes to stupid channels as shown. Frame 1: 160 bytes on wire (1280 bits), 160 bytes captured (1280 bits) on interface 0 Interface id: 0 (en0) Interface name...

The Wi-Fi design in that gateway is one of the worst I've ever seen. It jumps around adjacent channels (not the non-overlapping ones like it should), and uses PHY low bitrates which it shouldn't. Even if you wire it in with Ethernet (best move), it still acts as an AP for the Neurio meter...

Hey mate, You got me curious enough to check out how it transmits the signal. I did a video on it here:

It works with the Merlin opener that I got to replace my old broken one.

Yeah, sorry OP. I see more and more people waking up to this social media and 'cloud' crap and wanting everything connected. It gives me hope :)

Nah, you're right. I'm not having a go at you, just sick of the world demanding that I connect to it. This is a battery, and Tesla don't need to know how many times a day I boil the kettle.

Maybe I should just bend over and do whatever Tesla dictates then

Okay, get ready to laugh. I'm on version"1.17.1\n" Don't ask how I manged to do that, but I did. I'm of the "if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it" way of thinking. It works just nicely, so I keep it that way. As for the charge percentage though before it charges from solar, I made a video on...

Next time it happens, open this address in a browser https://x.x.x.x/api/system_status/grid_faults It might give you some hints.

You can get the service guys to remove auto pilot. That's what I did and never looked back.

You mean like this? Snaggy - easy screenshots That requires a LibreNMS server though which may be overkill for what you're after.

Tell that to the OP whose system failed to record

This is another case of Tesla trying (badly) to do something that's already been done. Get real dashcams installed, by real dashcam makers. Tesla is the jack of all trades, master of none.

...but then I got carried away and got a couple more :)

Here's how I did mine when I only had the front and rear cameras (it's a bit long winded but you'll get the idea)

This is for a model S, right? (Asking because your picture is a model 3). For the model S, the fuse for that connector is F100 and is a 5 amp fuse in the fuse box at the front of the car underneath that plastic cover.

You cannot disable Forward Collision Warning. That is, you used to be able to disable it and it stored it in your profile. Now, you have to disable it every time you get in the car. Even then, if you are in cruise control (no auto pilot) it will still alarm even if you've tried to disable it...

I worked out my average over a year to be about 1kWh per day of loss. That was the average of energy in to energy out over the year. It didn't seem too bad to me. There will always be some trickle to/from the grid, as if the voltages aren't exactly the same (which they never will be) then...

I you have a constant background load to take some of the excess, then you'll be fine. ie, my house load never drops below 300w.

In case anyone's interested, I did a video on how to extract the GPS data from the .mp4 files from the Blackvue.

I got Tesla to remove auto pilot (so I could have normal cruise control that does what I tell it to). I got the car because it's electric and quick. Everything else is a gimmick/annoyance.

You might have a rare but possible problem with 14.19kW of solar, and 2 Powerwalls. The Powerwall has a 5kw power rating (in/out). If you're producing 14.19kW from solar, and you're grid connected, then that excess 4.19kW above the combined Powerwalls rating of 10kw will go out onto the grid. No...