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No. But just do it. Contrary to what the dialog box says, it doesn't require driving 100 miles. From my recent experience, Camera Calibration typically takes less than one mile of city driving combined with about 5 miles of highway driving. Be sure to do the calibration driving during mid-day...

The Sony PS5 Wireless Controllers work great. I bought this pair, but haven't used them that much. Easy to connect wirelessly to the Tesla, but it seems to take over the ON/OFF button on the PS5 Controller, Only quirk that I noticed, is a way to turn them OFF once connected wirelessly...

You won't see the driver profile on the Navigation Screen while driving the car. But if you tap on the Controls Menu icon, and at the top of the menu, you'll see the driver profile icon, which you can tap on to bring up your driver profiles, and select a different profile.

In the Controls Menu, there is a Chill setting for Acceleration under Pedals & Steering. I created a driver profile for FSD, with the acceleration set to "Chill". When driving the car, the driver profile is not shown on the Navigation Screen for selecting another profile, but you can still...

It will be like Johnny Cab in the movie Total Recall. Tesla using FSD (Supervised) with Optimus Robot doing the driver supervision. Additionally, Optimus robot will handle humanoid tasks for Supercharging, and customer needs.

Apparently FSD now requires additional Camera Calibrations, beyond the original Autopilot Camera Calibration. If you force an Autopilot Camera Re-Calibration by deleting the Calibration Data from the Controls - Service menu, you'll see that after Autopilot Calibration completes, additional FSD...

There is more information about the console wiring for both pre and post 2.0 Consoles in another forum thread on the Tesla Owners Online web site, where I discussed harness differences, wiring details, connectors, and terminal release tools, early in this other forum thread: Link.. Tesla...

Likely the bolts were improper installed following removal during a service operation or inspection. The Tesla Service Manual specifies using purple Loctite thread sealant on the associated bolt threads, along with with a torque wrench at specified torque setting.

The front bump stops are shorter, so those might work as replacements for the rear shock. But the Tesla Parts Catalog only lists the rear bump stop part number, so it looks like those front bump stops are only available with purchase of a complete coil-over shock assemblies. Since KONI does...

I found a similar clear bin tray for the rear console compartment and lined it with the same non-slip clear silicone rubber liner material as mentioned in my prior post. Clear Rear Console Bin Tray on AliExpress.com The same seller also has the front bin tray in clear acrylic plastic, however...

tom @ eas, Your web page shows parts for another make/model. Do you have photos showing the actual Tesla M3/Y parts? Tesla mounted the shocks inside the wheel wells making them more subject to wheel splatter than typical. Do these shocks provide shock bellows or do they provide bottom...

That may be true, but the installer will probably only warrant the labor for 12 months. The way Tesla mounted the shocks inside the wheel well, I'm not so sure that leaving the shock bellows off is a good idea. I plan to 3D print with ABS plastic, a modified version of the OEM shock bellow...

No, you can do whatever you want. I'm just saying, the factory wiring provides 12 volt power, and Ground, from a wiring chain of charging modules. Here's a screenshot from the Tesla Schematic Diagram, applicable for the 2.0 Center Console, that shows the same thing..

Yes, you need to plug in the harness connector at the rear USB module in order to supply +12V power to the front USB Hub and Wireless Charging Pad. That's just the way power is wired inside the 2.0 Center Console. If you look at the rear USB module connector, you'll see it has 4-pins. The...

I installed a small patch of 3M PPF behind where my front License plate resides, then after removing the factory sticky tape, attached the factory plate holder with adhesive backed Velcro strips. It's been on my M3 for almost 5 years now. No complaints.

Probably more appropriate screw for license plate, are "Truss Head" self tapping screws. Available in either black or uncoated stainless steel.

They clip in place, so you need to first unlatch them from inside, in order to remove them from outside. You need to remove the trim panel on the inside. To prevent damage to the clip when installing Lic. plate, use the proper size (M5x6) flat end self-tapping pan head screw/bolt ( piece 4 of...

Another flawed Chat GPT report.

It's more about rolling resistance which affects power efficiency and range. So, like tire design affects rolling resistance, same for hub caps.

I have a new tray design now that I really like and works great with the factory console's bin lighting. There are a few aftermarket accessary sellers that sell clear plastic trays. These clear trays usually come with opaque silicone rubber liners which need to be discarded. The tray is a...

There are still plenty of early Model 3's with FSD option, that were never updated with HW3 AutoPilot computers. Due to high cost of HW3 semiconductor foundry/fab work, when/if Tesla runs out of HW3 update board inventories, it will be much less expensive for Tesla to make compatible update...

After removing the two side screws, you need to pull directly down on one side (preferably, the side opposite the harness connector). You may need apply a slight amount of force to spread the sides apart, that is to give it some persuasion. When I removed this brace, I first disconnected the...

For year 2018 M3 2.0 Console retrofits, there's a lengthy and more detailed discussion thread, at the Tesla Motors Club forum. Thread includes harness wiring details, adapters, and how to make pin insertion/removal tools in order to swap out 26/20 housings. Link below ... Just swapped out my...

You don't need to pull the HV battery harness connector or 12V before disconnecting the Console 26-pin connector. Disconnecting the USB-data cable can be done without powering down the car. You only need to power down the car if you're disconnecting the 26-pin connector at the rear of the...

On my 2018 M3, I attached the factory license holder using adhesive backed Velcro strips. Not directly to the car's painted front bumper, but on top of a patch of a 3M brand of clear PPF film. The hard part was removing the factory license holder's 3M brand double backed adhesive tape. In...

On the data cable routing, you only need to (1) pull back/dismount the "flocked panel" holding the USB-hub, (2) (if installed ) remove the passenger side ( right ) carpet panel to expose the data cable/ car harness mating mounting post. The data cable routing drops down directly from the...

I do haves a Model 3, but mine has been updated with the later 2.0 Center Console. No Glovebox USB data, so have USB data only in front bin. Anyway, same front bin LED light as with yours.

No, it is not Alibaba.com. It is AliExpress.com, which is the retail arm of Alibaba.com. Here's are the links to the two product listings pictured in my post above. 4pcs Acrylic Mirror Stickers Thicken-2mm Self adhesive DIY Art Mirrors Wall Sticker 200x200mm plexiglass clear acrylic board...

Looks good. Since Tesla's optional front bin tray slides forward for access, I had an idea of reflecting the front bin LED light off the inside bin's top surface. Thought about doing this using a light weight acrylic mirror attached to the top of the bin. There are flat surfaces on the bin...

No. That's not for 2.0 Center Console. But you can get one aftermarket flocked front bin tray on AliExpress.com for less than $10 USD shipped from China with Free Return. It just lacks the Tesla logo. It is same size and shape as the bin 2.0 Console bin part Tesla sells on their online...

Paulie, Since your 2019 M3 did not come equipped with a USB 3.0 data port in the Glovebox, you will need the USB-C data port in the Console 2.0's front bin. I would wait for the new console inspection to find out if it comes with a USB module which supports USB data transfers. If you find out...

I had the same problem. I would describe it as looking like the car had the equivalent of 100K mile of normal windshield wear/pitting. Problem was only noticeable early to mid morning or mid to late afternoon, but only when driving in the direction of the Sun. For my car, there was an...

With enough pressure on Tesla by the Tesla owners groups, a HW4 processor on a HW3-form-factor (fewer sensors however) could be made for retrofitting. Just don't get you hopes up for HW4 bringing full-autonomy.

Anyone know how many months it took for HW4 production to replace HW3 production? Just wondering how long it might take for HW5, then HW6, etc, until there's enough processing power to implement a full-suite of neural networks required for level-5 full-autonomy.

Thanks. Should have mentioned that. I have adjusted the distance setting, but the distance setting to eliminate the false pop-up menu results in a late pop-up menu and causes an extra wait times for the door to open. It's silly that the only way Tesla allows adjusting the distance setting for...

When returning home, the Homelink Menu pops-up as I approach the rear of my home on a different street, but then the menu disappears, however several seconds later, when I arrive at my home's street address, the Homelink Menu never pops-up again. So, I have to manually tap Controls - Homlink...

I don't use routing feature on long road trips. However I did a road trip two weekends ago and noticed that the Supercharger Markers only showed on the map when tapping on the supercharger map menu which brings up a tabular list of Superchargers. However, the markers reappeared on the map for a...

No, after you exit the car, the power to the Inductive Charger times-out after a several minutes. Same for the USB ports, which are powered by the same 12V power source. The only exception is when Sentry Mode is recording, in which case, power is continuously on for USB and Inductive Charging...

Your car's 26-pin connector does not have a wire at pin #6. The Inductive Charger on the 2.0 Console will work just fine, but there is no way to put it in sleep mode. Tesla added a way to control the Inductive Charger by adding a LIN bus wire on cars from factory with 2.0 Console. Apparently...

Not a good idea. Only Fremont built cars after October 4, 2020 have pin #6 ( Inductive Charger LIN ) of the 26-pin connector populated. If in the future, Tesla implements Inductive Charger Controls in firmware, the User Interface on the Center Display would likely show data communication errors.

Yes there are many variables, like battery manufacturer, ambient temperature, battery chemistry. I'm just looking for ballpark voltage to determine ability to hold a charge. Here's an example of voltage vs. state-of-charge in % for 12V AGM battery.

My 2018 M3 LR still has its original 12V battery. Not sure how long it will last, but I do check the static battery voltage occasionally with a multi-meter. The way I check the battery voltage is to: 1. open the hood from the center display, 2. remove the charging plug from the charge port...

kayrish, For your 2018, the 20-pin to 26-pin adapter plugs into the 26-pin connector from the 2.0 Center Console's wire harness located after removing the lower rear trim cover. The other side of the adapter plugs into the cars wiring harness (20-pin connector) at the same location. The OBDII...

Tesla Megafactory... Per Tesla 2 hours ago... At $1.2M USD per Megapack, that's $12B USD per year. Megafactory

Buyer's remorse? With only few details, sounds like a made up fault (fake)..

I have a 2018 Model 3. Never had this problem. Doesn't sound like a warranty repair. Your car's insurance might cover the parts and labor, less your deductible amount.

Contact your insurance company. Insurance companies typicall require mulitple repair quotes/estimates from Body Shops in your area because quotes/estimates pricing will likely vary widely, depending on how busy the shops are that are willing to provide estimates.

Razor blade will take care of that, I'd be more concerned about the fiberous material under the gap between the two glass edges; that doesn't look right.

I only checked the parts marked "MP5031". According to the datasheets, the automotive grade (AEC-Q100 Qualified) part has the same markings as the non-automotive grade. So, it looks like for these semiconductor ICs, that you can't tell from looking at the parts on the PCB. Part numbers for...