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Guys you don’t want this. 2018 M3 with HW3 and the speed limit is a major issue. It’s unusable. I had it set to 56 on a rural road with speed limit of 50 and it wouldn’t go over 39. I pressed the accelerator and it would full regen all the way back to 39 immediately and uncomfortably. Turns feel...

This happened to me after a windshield replacement. The cameras were misaligned (pointed down) in the front mirror housing. Tesla fixed it free in less than an hour.

Yes, I have a j1772 extension. Works perfectly with a NACS adapter.

No offense but it seems like you’re way overthinking this. It’s not “risky” to let Tesla repair it, I’m sure you’re not the first 2018 to replace a windshield.

Are you using sentry mode? Try disabling it and rebooting the car. No clue why or if it’s a coincidence, but seemed to work for me. Sentry mode isn’t really necessary for me because I park in a safe location.

camera is physically out of alignment inside the casing. I had this issue after a windshield replacement. Took it to Tesla and they fixed it for free.

Older model 3s had 3 pins for outer instead of 4. Adapter is needed if your car only has 3 pins.

That would be pretty cool! The only functionality that currently isn’t there right now is audio recording.

Not doing it doesn’t mean it’s impossible, it could just be low priority. The atom still runs everything it needs to, so why would anyone want to upgrade right now even if Tesla offered? People willing to upgrade right now would be limited to hardcore in car gamers and people who use the web...

My point was that voltage isn’t the problem (quoted post said 16v vs 12v means they need to redo the electrical system).

Or a simple 12v-16v step up converter added to the MCU. They’re like 20 bucks full retail.

Is that a gunmetal Tesla logo? I could only find black ones. Mind sharing where you found them?

Wow, that’s a great “boost”. Faster than my 3 LR RWD.

Have you seen how much progress they’ve made in the past year? Even if FSD never gets past L3 it’s not for lack of trying or a “skeleton crew”. More likely the price increases will cover retrofitting older cars, and even that isn’t a sure thing.

Hoping it wasn’t that. My car is out of warranty.

Strange. I forced a software reload, did a brake pedal reset, and the last thing I tried was sitting in the car for 10 minutes after pressing “power off”. The power off actually fixed the issue or so I thought. Had one long drive with everything working as normal, but the next trip it’s broken...

I watched it get to 100% though, that’s the weird part.

I received a message on FSDb 2022.20.18 that camera calibration was required. Autopilot wouldn’t turn on, so I cleared calibration data and drove around until I saw the message calibration was complete. I also looked in the autopilot menu and saw that there was additional calibration needed for...

Thanks! I ordered the tires online and took them to Walmart to get mounted. I had an extra set of Aero rims so it was easy to install on the car myself.

Got my covers from AliExpress (seller TSL Model3 Y Store) and new tires installed today. I think it looks great and quality seems surprisingly good. I did use the foam tape around the outside of each cover and they feel solidly in place. Only complaint is the center caps don’t have a logo which...

Catastrophize much? You’re describing what happens to any car when the 12v dies. In fact, a Tesla performs better than an ICE with a dead battery since it will likely just keep the car awake on the traction battery. Plus it almost always gives a warning on recent software updates.

Bold prediction 😂

Bluetooth tpms or the older RF version?

Here’s a quick reference for what to expect using the adapters from @Nomisal Everything works perfectly except when the brake is depressed and turn signal activated the first blink is skipped as noted by others. Watch the repeater with and without brake applied. 2018 LR RWD and model Y US...

eBay. Correct, only the outer is needed.

Received my adapters from Amazon and installed model Y tail lights on my 2018 M3 and they are working flawlessly. Thanks @Nomisal !!

Yes, people do it. Better range, varying degrees of increased tire wear, less comfortable ride quality. The tire has a “max sidewall pressure” listed on the sidewall. I usually pump up 1-2 PSI below the max.

Was it icy?

There are almost never cases that extreme. Recently the beta update broke something and beta testers experienced false emergency braking. That was a bug and doesn’t reflect “Phantom” braking as it’s typically discussed here.

Be real though, how often does that situation happen? Hard braking is much more likely to be caused by driver inattention and/or following too closely.

FSD computer doesn’t run the user interface, so I’d be shocked if there is any difference in responsiveness. I didn’t notice any difference after my 2.5>3 swap back in may 2020. Side note, after seeing the hardware upgrade cost I’m really glad I bit the bullet and paid 2k for the EAP to FSD...

+1 on this. I stuck some electric tape along the inside wheel well liner and the rattling disappeared after driving me crazy for months!

Does it have the Alcantara headliner? That would be a nice bonus.

Looking for a Gen 1 UMC, preferably for pickup in the NJ area but also open to shipping. I can also trade my barely used gen 2 UMC with 14-50 adapter + cash.

If it’s less than ~55-60F the car puts the motor in an “inefficient” mode to generate heat for the battery. I’ve noticed that the motor “whines” a lot more when the car is in this inefficient mode, especially during regen braking. My car is RWD so obviously I only hear it from the rear motor.

Yes. Both back seats need to be folded down, but they fit no problem.

This is a minor annoyance, but I noticed on a loaner S75D that there’s a 10-15 second “systems are starting up” message that pops up before you can drive on the first trip of the day. The 3 doesn’t have anywhere near the wait time, you just get in an go. Definitely makes the S feel like older...

I’m in central NJ and made it through winter just fine with my LR RWD on stock 18s. If you’re really concerned about traction, winter tires will do more than AWD anyway. I’d definitely go with the LR pack, range decreases by 20-30% on really cold days.

Have you tested this? My model 3 automatically goes to park when the driver’s seatbelt is unbuckled and no weight is detected on the seat. Not the same exact case, but it seems inconsistent that sometimes it will accelerate with no driver in the seat. This bug definitely needs to be corrected...

Definitely 18s for winter. The 18 inch tires have a wider sidewall that will take more of a beating from winter potholes. I would keep the 19 all seasons for spring/summer, and get aero wheels with winter tires for the winter.

This. It’s super annoying at drive thru windows too.

I hear it sometimes from the rear of my rwd model 3, usually when accelerating hard or during regen. I like it, sounds like a spaceship. Pretty sure it’s normal, I had the same type of noise in my bmw i3.

I’ve seen this stated quite a few times, but it contradicts the 2016 NTSB report from the original Model S underride accident. The report states that Euro spec underride guards are only designed for ~35mph and would not have been effective in that collision. Not sure what my point is, but felt...

I was thinking the same thing! This would help so much with mist coming off other cars on the highway.

Hey I sent you a pm early this morning. Let me know if you’re interested. Thanks!