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12v Socket in Front bin

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After purchasing a fast wireless charging pad for the model 3 of ebay (separate post to follow on that), I realized I had to provide the 9v 1.5a requirement to the usb ports of the charging pad for fast charging to work.

Instead of routing 2 usb wires from the back bin connected to a fast usb 12v charger, i decided to remove the console and find a way to add a 12v socket to the front to avoid routing wires through the 2 bins.

What follows is a guide of sorts for the removal of the center console as well as installation and wiring notes of my modification. This is not a step-by-step guide, I assume if someone is interesting in doing this themselves they have a certain amount of comfort around their car and basic electric principles.


The center console must be removed from the car, there is no way around it. Luckily the car is very well put together and its very easy to take apart.

There are a total of 6 bolts with a 10mm head and 2 hex screws, two bolts on each side of the console and 2 on the back (on the side as well).

Starting with the rear of the console:

Bolts rear.jpg


Then removing the rear connector:

Connector Rear.png


Moving to the front, removing the two screws under the phone tray:

Phone Tray screws.png


You can then remove the carpet side trims on each side of the console. These are a bit flimsy so don't force to much.
Once removed we get access to the last 4 bolts as well as the front connector:

Front Bolts.png

Front Right Connector.png



That's all! Center console can now be taken out by wiggle-ling aft wards and lifting. (make sure the phone tray cover is closed)

Once out you can see the available space next to the front usb ports and figure out the best place for the new socket.

Console.jpg


The two yellow and two black power in for the front USB are the same, you can splice into any of the two for the 12v source. This will not trip any efuse if you don't use the socket for your portable 12v oven.

And once installed:

Console with socket.jpg


Before putting the console back in the car there is a little caveat. There are two ...well two nipples of sorts holding the usb panel in place so that it does not flex too much. One of those is right where the new socket is and needs to be trimmed down to the same length that the socket is occupying. Photos are worth a million words, so :

Trim.jpg


You can then proceed with installing the console back. I was to eager to put it all back so I didn't take any photos of my wiring job that I'm very proud off ....pity.

And here is the final result with cables all nice and tidy.

Final.jpg


Wubbalubbadubdub!
 

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Thanks for this. I also got one of the fast mats. It came with instructions on routing a wire to the back compartment. But their instructions would make the phone area cover inoperable so I didn’t bother.

This is something more up my alley.
 
Did you consider tapping into the existing 12v socket as a source for this 12v outlet? I would have presumed that the USB power leads only provide 5v each, otherwise you could just pull the 9v straight from the USB ports inside the console.
 
I think you made it harder than you needed to. If you pull the side carpet/trim on both sides of the center console, and unscrew the side metal mounting trims, then you can easily lift up on the piano black panel with the cup holders and the RFID receiver for the key card (just held in by clips). This covers the 12V receptacle in the rear center console cubby. Then just tap the 12V here and run it forwards to where you want to enter the compartment under the phone mount. That's what I did to get extra 12V power to a USB hub for Qi charging pad and other accessories.
 
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Did you consider tapping into the existing 12v socket as a source for this 12v outlet? I would have presumed that the USB power leads only provide 5v each, otherwise you could just pull the 9v straight from the USB ports inside the console.
Car Usb have a 12v input, after which the conversion to 5v happens inside a closed box. There is no 9v available. The reason for tapping there is simply convenience, the 12v source is right next to my newly installed socket, no need to route wires all the way to the rear socket.
 
I think you made it harder than you needed to. If you pull the side carpet/trim on both sides of the center console, and unscrew the side metal mounting trims, then you can easily lift up on the piano black panel with the cup holders and the RFID receiver for the key card (just held in by clips). This covers the 12V receptacle in the rear center console cubby. Then just tap the 12V here and run it forwards to where you want to enter the compartment under the phone mount. That's what I did to get extra 12V power to a USB hub for Qi charging pad and other accessories.
I didn't want to tap further than I had to. 12v power is available right next to where I installed my socket, no need to route extra wiring to the rear socket. FIY all the 12v power for the center console is spliced into the same input. If you look closely at the rear connector on the center console (the one I show to unplug first) there are only two tick wires (black and yellow). Those then splice into more to join rear socket and front and rear usb ports.
 
Interesting. I like how clean it looks, but I'm concerned that it might be possible to overdraw on that circuit. Since Tesla expects people to plug their own stuff into the accessory socket, I think it's probably safer to tap that.

Graphics are from Tesla Service manual that they offer access to online for a limited time (1h 34$, 24h 100$)

Were you able to download and save the whole manual?
 
I didn't want to tap further than I had to. 12v power is available right next to where I installed my socket, no need to route extra wiring to the rear socket. FIY all the 12v power for the center console is spliced into the same input. If you look closely at the rear connector on the center console (the one I show to unplug first) there are only two tick wires (black and yellow). Those then splice into more to join rear socket and front and rear usb ports.

Also I wouldn't dare drilling a hole in the console while it's still in place, data wire for the front usb passes right behind it.
 
Interesting. I like how clean it looks, but I'm concerned that it might be possible to overdraw on that circuit. Since Tesla expects people to plug their own stuff into the accessory socket, I think it's probably safer to tap that.

It would definetly be better to tap into the 12v rear socket to power anything needing more than 2-3 amps. However for my application, I will only ever be plugging in a fast phone charger so that's plenty.


Were you able to download and save the whole manual?

No, but I did get most of the stuff that I need for my future projects.