I'm thinking about swapping out the console in my 2020 Model Y with the new V2. Does anyone know if I will lose USB data capabilities by doing this? Since newer models don't have data USB ports in the console and only in the glovebox USB, I'm worried that I'll lose the ability to record for sentry/dashcam since I don't have the glovebox USB for that.
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2021 Center Console Retrofit
- Thread starter superbaka
- Start date
You may be able to use your existing Delphi Coax Data Cable with the new 2.0 Center Console. Not sure if the data cable will be long enough. Tesla doesn't list the data cable in the parts catalog for Model 3/Y separately. They list the complete console harness, but not sure which part number includes the coax data cable. I have seen the data cable listed used on eBay.com, both as part of the harness, and without.
I have since installed my 2.0 Center Console in my 2018 Model 3. I purchased this console used on eBay.com and it came with the Delphi Coax Data Cable and USB-C hub, However the USB-C Hub lacked data capability, so I had to buy a new Tesla USB-C Hub that supported data transfers. My car also does not have Glovebox USB, so I needed data in the console for Sentry Mode recording and USB music.
I purchased a new Tesla USB-C Hub Gen 3 ( p/n 1755200-00-B ) from my local Tesla Service Center. I ordered this for local pickup at the Customer Counter and it was available in about 7 days. Cost was $34 USD, plus taxes (no shipping fee with local pickup). Tesla's cost may vary depending on Service Center location.
Just looked at my old console. The Delphi Coax Data Cable should be long enough to work with the 2.0 Console. Unlike the 2.0 Console I bought used, the data cable is not part of the wiring harness, You can find the data cable in the parts catalog for the earlier consoles.
Description: ASY,CABLE,USB,1R HUB TO IP,M3, P/N: 1100827-00-C
Description: ASY,CABLE,USB,1R HUB TO IP,M3, P/N: 1100827-00-C
Thank you! The 2.0 console part number that I see is 1755503-00-A. Is that the same one that you bought? I was looking at other peoples experiences (primarily Tesbros guide) and it seemed to be a plug-and-play solution with the exception of swapping the old security controller into the new console. If I'm understanding correctly, it's not that the new consoles don't support data, but that the newer model cars simply don't have the data cable running to the console anymore since it's going to the glovebox now. Since I already have the data cable running to the console, it should work assuming the cables are long enough like you said. However, I may need to also swap out the hub in the 2.0 console with the part number you gave which supports data or even something like this (https://smile.amazon.com/TPARTS-Center-Transmission-Recovery-Charging/dp/B09YQ391FD). Am I thinking this through correctly?
Thanks for your help with this!
Yes, that must be the part number of my 2.0 Center Console. I never actually looked at the label to verify the part number.
Tesla now lists that part number, but also another variant, which is 1755503-70-C. My guess is this is the latest without the data cable. So, if you order the earlier part, it should come with the data cable bound by felt tape into the console's wiring harness.
The installation is much easier than TesBros video, as he makes several mistakes before getting it installed properly. The install is quite easy and minimal time to install, however the prep work can take significantly more time. The side carpet panels are not easy to remove without a proper pry tool (I made mine from a metal trim tool kit I bought at Harbor Freight Tools). The Tesla Service Manual recommends two-person removal/install, however I did this without a helper.
Swapping out the Security Controller requires partially dismantling of both consoles and may not be easy unless you have experience doing that, The copper colored metal spring clips, on the black side trim pieces, need some gentle persuasion with a pry tool ( I used a putty knife wrapped in masking tape). Once you partially release these spring clips, you need to hook the clip with the pry tool to do the final pulling. Otherwise, you risk pulling the clips from the side trim which can damage the plastic where the clips attach to the side trim.
I can't recommend the more expensive aftermarket USB-C hubs (like TPARTS) because they may not be built with semiconductors that meet the more stringent automotive semiconductor fabrication standards. Thus might be more likely to fail in a harsh automotive environment, before the car approaches end-of-life.
Here's a photo of the side carpet panel pry tool I made from HFT trim tool kit.. Slips under the bottom of the carpet panel, then pull with handle, working on both sides, from the rear bottom, then releasing clips and moving toward the front to release remaining clips.
Tesla now lists that part number, but also another variant, which is 1755503-70-C. My guess is this is the latest without the data cable. So, if you order the earlier part, it should come with the data cable bound by felt tape into the console's wiring harness.
The installation is much easier than TesBros video, as he makes several mistakes before getting it installed properly. The install is quite easy and minimal time to install, however the prep work can take significantly more time. The side carpet panels are not easy to remove without a proper pry tool (I made mine from a metal trim tool kit I bought at Harbor Freight Tools). The Tesla Service Manual recommends two-person removal/install, however I did this without a helper.
Swapping out the Security Controller requires partially dismantling of both consoles and may not be easy unless you have experience doing that, The copper colored metal spring clips, on the black side trim pieces, need some gentle persuasion with a pry tool ( I used a putty knife wrapped in masking tape). Once you partially release these spring clips, you need to hook the clip with the pry tool to do the final pulling. Otherwise, you risk pulling the clips from the side trim which can damage the plastic where the clips attach to the side trim.
I can't recommend the more expensive aftermarket USB-C hubs (like TPARTS) because they may not be built with semiconductors that meet the more stringent automotive semiconductor fabrication standards. Thus might be more likely to fail in a harsh automotive environment, before the car approaches end-of-life.
Here's a photo of the side carpet panel pry tool I made from HFT trim tool kit.. Slips under the bottom of the carpet panel, then pull with handle, working on both sides, from the rear bottom, then releasing clips and moving toward the front to release remaining clips.
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Awesome explanation! I noticed that second part number too, but was going to go with the earlier 1755503-00-A that everyone mentioned. So hopefully that will have the data cable like you mentioned. Thank you for all of the advice. This will help a lot and I'll get proper pry tools before starting this. Happy Holidays!
I’m a bit confused…
If you’re buying the whole console, why would you need adapters? Unsure of the concern over this Delphi Coax Data Cable either?
If you buy a whole Console 2.0 assembly then the only two connections to the car are the blue CANBUS and the mini USB down the bottom right. These are the same as on the 1.0 console.
I previously did a USB-C retrofit on my OG console, so am using 2 adapters (I presume that’s what is being talked about above) to the new USB-C parts (hub and rear vents), but that isn’t required if you’re replacing the whole console.
If you’re buying the whole console, why would you need adapters? Unsure of the concern over this Delphi Coax Data Cable either?
If you buy a whole Console 2.0 assembly then the only two connections to the car are the blue CANBUS and the mini USB down the bottom right. These are the same as on the 1.0 console.
I previously did a USB-C retrofit on my OG console, so am using 2 adapters (I presume that’s what is being talked about above) to the new USB-C parts (hub and rear vents), but that isn’t required if you’re replacing the whole console.
For 2018 owners we have a different connector on the back end of the center console and need an adapter to fit the 2.0 console.
Here's a recent photo of the 2.0 Console installed on my 2018 Model 3. The stock inductive charger pad still looks new, but I have it covered with a black silicone rubber anti-skid cover. Seems to better match the older interior.
Before I installed this used 2.0 Center Console, I tested the inductive charger to make sure it was still in working order. I was also interested to find out how much current it draws when not being used to charge a phone. My Fluke multimeter showed it, on average, uses only 0.010 amperes. Most of the time, it only draws 0.002 amperes, but every few moments, it pulses the coils to see if a phone has been placed on the charging pad. That pulse increases the current to about 0.045 amperes. This kind of current draw is not significant when driving the car any distance.
The inductive charger is powered by the same switched 12V power feed as the front and rear USB modules. So when parked, the power to these usually times out after a few minutes, unless Sentry Mode is enabled.
Before I installed this used 2.0 Center Console, I tested the inductive charger to make sure it was still in working order. I was also interested to find out how much current it draws when not being used to charge a phone. My Fluke multimeter showed it, on average, uses only 0.010 amperes. Most of the time, it only draws 0.002 amperes, but every few moments, it pulses the coils to see if a phone has been placed on the charging pad. That pulse increases the current to about 0.045 amperes. This kind of current draw is not significant when driving the car any distance.
The inductive charger is powered by the same switched 12V power feed as the front and rear USB modules. So when parked, the power to these usually times out after a few minutes, unless Sentry Mode is enabled.
Looks amazing! Can't wait to get this done on my 2018. Quick question about the silicone pad. Is it more grippy than the stock surface?
Have you tried measuring the charging speed with and without the cover you’ve added? I’d be concerned about losses from too much material between the coils and phone. I already have a case on my phone, the OEM alcantara is a barrier as well, and the camera bump would lift it off the pad anyway (unlike on the 1.0 Console wireless pad, designed with a recess), etc.
I don’t have an Android phone so no way to test how much the phone would actually charge on this thing. Does it do a decent amount of wattage?
I’ve still got my 2.0 Console ready to go in, but have just realised that all of the door controls are piano black too, whereas I assume the newer cars came with matt ones to match the console? Anyone know if those parts straight swaps? Should I even bother?
I thought the same thing, but I'm not sure what the door controls look like in the newer cars. I would assume they aren't piano black anymore. I think they can easily be wrapped with a matte finish to match the new console. I know people have swapped the door panels to the newer style, but I don't think that includes the door controls which seems like it might be a more difficult swap. I'd be curious to hear if you find out any details about this.
I know they make these hard plastic covers that go over the controls and glossy plastic trim. The issue is that they look clunky and the hole for the light to come through often fills up with dust.
I agree. I don't like the plastic cover look either. If you do a vinyl wrap, it should be much better without dust building up.
I just placed an order with Tesla for the new console. I did it through the mobile app. They initially came back and said a retrofit isn't available and isn't compatible. I told them that it is compatible and has been done by others. They went back to the parts department to ask again and then sent me a message confirming that it can be ordered for me. I guess they have an initial response to immediately say it won't work and you have to give them some push back. Hopefully they won't cancel the order in the meantime, but it looks like I'm just waiting for it to come in stock so I can go pick it up.
Hi borland, quick question after thinking this through some more. If the new 2.0 console ends up not have the data cable that runs through the console, couldn't I just pull this part out of the 1.0 console? If the USB hub that is included in the 2.0 console has the data port, then I can just plug it in there. Otherwise, I can order a new USB hub and still use the harness from the 1.0 console. Does that make sense?
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That's what I suggested in post #42 and #43. The data (Delphi) coax cable is the same as used in 1.0 and early 2.0. So, you can use your old data cable if the new console does not have it.
I just noticed that you have a Model Y. If you ordered the 2.0 console part number for the Model 3, then you will need to swap out your console's ducting piece for the rear HVAC outlet because they are different between 3 and Y.
Another Console removal/installation tip. The Delphi data coax cable (discussed above) plugs into the car's harness at the location shown in the annotated photo below. The data cable connectors are not easy to disconnect while mounted by the black plastic holder (circled in green). If you release the outer holder clip and slide the connectors and cable forward, then you can pull the connectors and cable outside of the console and have better two-handed access to disconnect these connectors. Same tip for reconnecting them with the new console installed.
I just noticed that you have a Model Y. If you ordered the 2.0 console part number for the Model 3, then you will need to swap out your console's ducting piece for the rear HVAC outlet because they are different between 3 and Y.
Another Console removal/installation tip. The Delphi data coax cable (discussed above) plugs into the car's harness at the location shown in the annotated photo below. The data cable connectors are not easy to disconnect while mounted by the black plastic holder (circled in green). If you release the outer holder clip and slide the connectors and cable forward, then you can pull the connectors and cable outside of the console and have better two-handed access to disconnect these connectors. Same tip for reconnecting them with the new console installed.
Thank you. What do you mean about the ducting piece for the rear HVAC? The 2.0 console part number (1755503-00-A) is exactly the same for both Model 3 and Y so everything should be identical and not need to be swapped, right? I've read other people posting about doing this in Model Y but never any mention of needing to swap that part.
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