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2021 Center Console Retrofit

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Disconnecting HV and 12v. I think it's probably a crapshoot what problems you'll have if you don't. Might not have any issues at all, or you might get some random alerts.
I remember one of the early videos I saw on the swap, might’ve been Daerik’s where he said the tesla service manual suggests disconnecting both.

it’s an extra few minutes, like 3-5 at most, but you’re not scrambling to make sure the car doesn’t wake up. Watch the tesbros console swap video, he was panicking the whole video that it would turn on.

Open all 4 doors, your frunk, your trunk and disconnect them. When all your new connections a made to the console (usb and canbus) then reconnect the HV battery first and then the 12v Negative terminal in the frunk.
 
Yeah I watched both those ones.. Tesbros didn't disconnect the HV/12v so - being lazy - I didn't bother either. I think me having an aftermarket trunk lifter fitted is what caused the issue, because I wasn't plugging the new console directly into the car - it was going via an adapter.

As you say for the sake of a bit of extra work you don't have to worry about waking the car up by accidentally touching something or sitting on the drivers seat.
 
I should add - while I remember - that it took a mobile tech an hour to get the 2.0 console working on my car. There was a whole process he had to go through, running several tests that all had to pass, before the car would accept the foreign security controller. It ended up needing 2 redeploys of the firmware as well, before it finally took.

Swapping the security controller is definitely advisable, even though it is more fiddly (all the more reason to disconnect HV and 12v, to avoid the car waking up spontaneously while you're swapping the controllers).

For what it's worth USB data worked fine - I plugged my SSD in that I took out of my OG console and it worked instantly. If you can source a console from before they took away data (late 2021 I think) then it's less work and expense.
 
I should add - while I remember - that it took a mobile tech an hour to get the 2.0 console working on my car. There was a whole process he had to go through, running several tests that all had to pass, before the car would accept the foreign security controller. It ended up needing 2 redeploys of the firmware as well, before it finally took.

Swapping the security controller is definitely advisable, even though it is more fiddly (all the more reason to disconnect HV and 12v, to avoid the car waking up spontaneously while you're swapping the controllers).

For what it's worth USB data worked fine - I plugged my SSD in that I took out of my OG console and it worked instantly. If you can source a console from before they took away data (late 2021 I think) then it's less work and expense.
funny enough i got a console off of a 2021, i swapped out the data for the tparts one anyhow. I'm not sure if that was the year they moved the sentry to the glovebox
 
funny enough i got a console off of a 2021, i swapped out the data for the tparts one anyhow. I'm not sure if that was the year they moved the sentry to the glovebox
My mid 2019 had no data in the glovebox. Since i only had data in the console I went with the JOWUA usb hub and it’s worked flawlessly and I have a whole bunch of ports with fast charging and data. It’s pricey but it’s a solid product.

For those of us without the usb in the glovebox, most floating usb docking stations are not a viable option because most of them use both usb ports in the bin and you’ll have to leave your sentry drive exposed since those ports are in use by the docking station.

The hardest
 
Alright my turn for a write up

Purchased a console off of a 21 for $200

I gutted that one so i can get my old harness in since i have a 2018

1. Now everything works with the old harness except the data module which im gonna make the holes bigger on the cover and use my old usb a connections

2. the wireless charger i tapped into the cig lighter which i hope it should work and won't drain much battery

3. I also reused the rear vents with the usb a as well

other than that it was straight forward, i disconnected the 12v and hv just in case and it turned on perfectly fine, thanks to those who helped me on here i appreciate it

IMG_0668.jpeg
 
Alright my turn for a write up

Purchased a console off of a 21 for $200

I gutted that one so i can get my old harness in since i have a 2018

1. Now everything works with the old harness except the data module which im gonna make the holes bigger on the cover and use my old usb a connections

2. the wireless charger i tapped into the cig lighter which i hope it should work and won't drain much battery

3. I also reused the rear vents with the usb a as well

other than that it was straight forward, i disconnected the 12v and hv just in case and it turned on perfectly fine, thanks to those who helped me on here i appreciate it

View attachment 920062
Right on bro, looks great!
 
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I think it's an improvement. I didn't dislike the OG console and feel like it was the "original vision" for the car, but almost every time I drove it I was putting my phone on the wireless charger, which meant I had one of the lids up all of the time, and the OG console loses some of its aesthetic quality like this (as well as being annoying opening and closing it).

It feels a bit more premium too, with the top part of it being the soft touch material rather than plastic.

The only downside for me is that Jeda never made a hub for this spec (where the SSD would still be secreted inside) because everyone who has the 2.0 console from the factory also has the glovebox USB port, which makes that configuration of USB hub redundant.
 
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i think its worth it, feels like i have a new car every time i step in lol. The only part that sucks is prepping everything and the wire work. I'd say this project took me about 6 hours or so
Thanks. For some reason, I still really like the look of my OG console, especially with some of the touches I’ve added to it over the years. Therefore, I haven’t been too motivated to swap it out for the latest gen.

However, we do have a new MYP coming next week (for the wife). And, I suspect once I sit in & drive that vehicle a few times, my itch to swap consoles in my M3P might grow… 😁
 
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Is there anyone here in the bay area, who could help. I got a 2.0 console and have an 18 M3. Got stuck on the canbus 20 to 26 pin issue. After reading the thread I m bit more confused. If someone wants to help me please let me know and we can sort out the labor..
 
Is there anyone here in the bay area, who could help. I got a 2.0 console and have an 18 M3. Got stuck on the canbus 20 to 26 pin issue. After reading the thread I m bit more confused. If someone wants to help me please let me know and we can sort out the labor..
I went the route of pulling the harness from the new console and made that work
 
Is there anyone here in the bay area, who could help. I got a 2.0 console and have an 18 M3. Got stuck on the canbus 20 to 26 pin issue. After reading the thread I m bit more confused. If someone wants to help me please let me know and we can sort out the labor..
For year 2018 M3 2.0 Console retrofits, there's a lengthy and more detailed discussion thread, at the Tesla Motors Club forum. Thread includes harness wiring details, adapters, and how to make pin insertion/removal tools in order to swap out 26/20 housings. Link below ...

Just swapped out my 2018 Center Console to 2022
 
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How do I remove the rear vent ducting? Duct is completely loose but I can't get it completely out. Seems like the horizontal support w/ 26-pin connector, pictured below, needs to come out. I removed the screws (you can see right one re-installed just so I don't lose it) but it just pivots in place. Do I pull both halves of console apart until it comes loose? :oops:

I'm doing this so i can neatly run the USB module data cable . I can probably get it good enough at this point but I'm still waiting for the cable to arrive. Using Tesla USB-C data module part # 1755200-00-B which includes the mini USB data port. Thanks!!

20230410_202444.jpg
 
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