2021+ Model S and Model S Plaid Refresh Issues Thread

[Phlier]

Am I missing a setting to turn this on?

Yes. Yes, you are.

You need to associate every "key" that is used to operate the car (whether it's a smart phone, key card, key fob... whatever) with a Driver Profile.

Then whenever a key is used to wake the car, the associated driver profile will load.

It's all in the manual.

Edit: Reading back over that post, the manual comment comes off as snarky. Not meant to be that way. Just a suggestion to read the manual, as it is chock full of great stuff. I'd never read a car's user manual before in my life until I bought my Model 3. Read it cover to cover, and forced my wife to do so as well.

 

[Marcust99]

Yes. Yes, you are.

You need to associate every "key" that is used to operate the car (whether it's a smart phone, key card, key fob... whatever) with a Driver Profile.

Then whenever a key is used to wake the car, the associated driver profile will load.

It's all in the manual.

Edit: Reading back over that post, the manual comment comes off as snarky. Not meant to be that way. Just a suggestion to read the manual, as it is chock full of great stuff. I'd never read a car's user manual before in my life until I bought my Model 3. Read it cover to cover, and forced my wife to do so as well.

I'll RTFM!

As an aside, last week when we were at the SC picking up the new MSLR, I asked the SA there about it. His exact words were "I don't think you can do that"...

 

[Phlier]

I'll RTFM!

As an aside, last week when we were at the SC picking up the new MSLR, I asked the SA there about it. His exact words were "I don't think you can do that"...

I'm honestly not surprised, as every SA I've spoken to at Tesla seems completely clueless about the products themselves. It's like Tesla taught them the exact minimum they needed to semi-competently do their jobs, and that was it.

But to be fair, most every SA I've met also appeared to be way overloaded with more customers than what they could competently serve. At least, I hope that's the reason they never return emails, phone calls, or texts.

But back to on topic for a sec...

After you've setup your keys to driver profiles, there's one last thing that can be an annoyance: Easy Entry.

Easy Entry is treated as its own driver profile. That means that any AC settings, mirror settings.,... ALL the things that are saved to a regular driver profile are saved to Easy Entry if it is the active profile at the time the setting is changed.

OK, so what?

The "what" is that if you use Easy Entry, while Easy Entry is the profile that is currently active, your profile is not; your specific mirror, temperature, etc. settings won't be applied until after Easy Entry has done its thing and switched over to your profile.

So if you're wondering why all the seat heaters are turned on, the AC is set to max cold, and you can't see out of your side view mirrors when you first get in the car, just wait for Easy Entry to kick over to your profile.

Also keep this in mind when you make changes.... verify that the profile you intend to make changes to is currently active when you make the change. I can't tell you how many times I've changed something while Easy Entry is active, and then wondered why the change wasn't saved to my profile.

But all of this wall of text is moot if you don't use Easy Entry.

 

[Marcust99]

OK guys so now I feel like a total tool. First off for believing *2* SA's that this couldn't be done. And secondly for not
digging in myself and just looking at the manual.

Well it's EASY as pie - just having to associate a driver profile with a key. Took 2 seconds. Tried it a couple of time and now
the mirrors and seat adjusts when I unlock the car. Duh!

Thanks all. Next time I'll RTFM!

 

[rk242]

My biggest issues are a warped ripple effect in the front and rear windshields. It's seriously distracting. My SC appt isn't for 2 more
weeks too :0-( And BAD overspray on the rear bumper.

Huh... I also notice quite a bit of warping in the front windshield. Luckily the worst of it seems to be on the passenger side, but maybe that's just the angle from which I'm seeing it.

Is this 'normal'? I was going to let it go, but if the SC will replace it with a non-warped windshield, probably worth doing. Has anyone gotten word if this is something Tesla will fix, or is it all 'within specification'?

Thx

 

[Phlier]

Huh... I also notice quite a bit of warping in the front windshield. Luckily the worst of it seems to be on the passenger side, but maybe that's just the angle from which I'm seeing it.

My Model 3 has this same issue. If you're sitting in the passenger seat, it isn't really noticeable. But from the driver's seat looking through it at an angle, it's pretty bad.

 

[jebinc]

Well, as some of you know, I was never a fan of the door handle design (and reliability) on the Model S cars. I was quite dismayed to learn that the basic, but improved, design remained on the refreshed LR/Plaid. Many told me "not to worry, they are really great now (as a result of a decade's worth of redesigns)".

Still, I remained skeptical that this design would be reliable. My concerns have been realized - Still crap; first failure under 2000 miles.

 

[Marcust99]

My Model 3 has this same issue. If you're sitting in the passenger seat, it isn't really noticeable. But from the driver's seat looking through it at an angle, it's pretty bad.

Im taking mine in on the 20th. My front and back are both pretty BAD, esp the rear. Hopefully they will replace both. They should.

 

[Carsbuyer]

OMG I DO. ITs fking ANNOYING.
EDIT: for me its above the front dash. and it squeaks on bumps and stuff. its actually very bothersome. I want to return the car just from that... I picked it up 4 days ago. It makes it sound cheap AF.

Oh do you mean if you push on the front dash near where the silver trim is?

it’s right below where that speaker is located.

 

[hotsoup]

Well, as some of you know, I was never a fan of the door handle design (and reliability) on the Model S cars. I was quite dismayed to learn that the basic, but improved, design remained on the refreshed LR/Plaid. Many told me "not to worry, they are really great now (as a result of a decade's worth of redesigns)".

Still, I remained skeptical that this design would be reliable. My concerns have been realized - Still crap; first failure under 2000 miles.

View attachment 719323

I had this on day 1 on the driver's side.

Adding one more problem to the list - driver's side window will not go up all the way. After opening, the window will try to creep up but then stop. Auto-up and down don't work as well, window keeps stopping. I tried all the reset procedures which temporarily fix the auto-up/down issue but the window not going up all the way upon closing the door persists.

 

[aerodyne]

So their plan for the bunched up and stitched seat material is to hit it with steam? That’s only going to make it worse! Solutions are: 1) pull out the stitching, pull the material tight and restitch (not practical) or 2) replace the seat (expensive).

I'd like to see the approved Tesla service letter that says you should steam a synthetic leather seat to remove wrinkles.

 

[aerodyne]

Ok guys...Took delivery of MYLR last night in the dark. Looking at the car this morning, around the bumper seams and the lights
there appears to be a white residue gunky stuff. Like they ripped off the protectant film and this stuff was left over.

Anyone figure out an easy way to get this off without scratching the car??

Goof off brand

'Just looked at the picture. They hiring dehydrated llamas to apply tape with their tongues? Good lord.

Looks like Teflon tape to me, good stuff actually, but could be installed better.

 

[aerodyne]

I do have question about how to charge and how often- I normally drive less than 50 miles a day except 1 week of the month when I drive about 200 miles daily. I currently have set it up at 80%.. do I charge daily even if it just dropped to 70-75%? What’s the best practice? Leave the charge port in all night?

Per Elon, for the 1860 cells on the old cars, if you want to keep the car for 15-20 years, keep it mainly between 30-70%. Store for extended periods between 50-62%

I'd just charge to what you need just before driving plus a safety margin.

 

[aerodyne]

Good info @theatrus. With Li-Ion, you have 2 things that degrade a pack (well, there is a 3rd one, temperature, but it doesn't affect Teslas since they manage the pack very tightly): charge cycles and calendar degradation. Charge cycles are self explanatory. The batteries are only designed/tested for a given number of cycles. You only control this by how much you drive. With calendar degradation, it is the slowest at 50% SoC. If you are going to store your car for a while, you should set it for 50%.

It is easier for the BMS to balance the pack at higher levels (because the cell voltage changes are larger so easier to detect). With our cars I set it for 90% and charge 1/week depending on driving. But we don't have surprise long drives.

The BMS will balance the pack as needed. High SoC is not needed.

Low SoC for a long time might affect BMS calibration, that is a different thing.

For ALL batteries, the shallower the DoD the more cycles you can run. The benefits are very non linear.

A plugged in car will manage this quite nicely.

 

[aerodyne]

A little off topic but. I am taking my first long trip in my S LR. I don’t drive far most
Days and have only used my wall charger each night. This is my first EV. Are
There any specific adapters I should purchase for charging while on the road if no Tesla Superchargers are
Available?

NEMA 14-50. Most campgrounds have em.

NEMA 6-50 if you hang around garages or airports. Pretty commonly used for welders.

 

[aerodyne]

Update failure list since delivery... Red are still pending...

• Hood out of alignment. (Fixed this myself)
• Rubber seal hanging down behind front grill (Still dealing with this!!! Part on Order, I may just rip it out since it interferes with the closing of the cooling flaps inside the front grill.)
• All safety features disabled and cannot reset to get rid of the warnings. (Fixed with alignment issue at SC)
• Front end is out of alignment and car pulls to the left. (Fixed at SC)
• Right passenger window seal not installed properly (Fixed this myself).
• Yoke rubber cover coming loose on corner. (Yoke replaced at SC)
• Yoke airbag cover has weird worm line going through it. (New yoke has this also. This was explained to me as a break point for the air bag to deploy)
• Key card looks like it was melted and needs replaced. (Replaced at SC)
• Rear license plate frame dented and bent. (Still an issue!)
• NEW! small tear in passenger side door panel (Part on order for 2 months now!)
• Side window seals not installed properly (Fixed it myself)
• Paint chipping on rear quarter panels from front tires throwing rocks. (PPF and mud flaps installed early to prevent this issue)
• NEW! screens do not boot up for several seconds after sitting in car to drive. (No action yet. Tried rebooting.)
• Sirius XM tested and sound quality seriously sucks. (Cancelled free subscription.)
• More to come!

You have skills. Have you considered opening a third party repair shop?

 

[aerodyne]

I still think there should be an selectable option for larger fonts/icons - for the age impaired....

There was, but an update took care of that. I did not do the update, but I do have a fix for the inevitable day the SvC forces one on me.

Not sure if it will work for refresh:

 

[aerodyne]

Huh... I also notice quite a bit of warping in the front windshield. Luckily the worst of it seems to be on the passenger side, but maybe that's just the angle from which I'm seeing it.

Is this 'normal'? I was going to let it go, but if the SC will replace it with a non-warped windshield, probably worth doing. Has anyone gotten word if this is something Tesla will fix, or is it all 'within specification'?

Thx

A hint from a mobile tech who will remain anonymous.

Tell them you are concerned about it being a safety issue.

 

[aerodyne]

Well, as some of you know, I was never a fan of the door handle design (and reliability) on the Model S cars. I was quite dismayed to learn that the basic, but improved, design remained on the refreshed LR/Plaid. Many told me "not to worry, they are really great now (as a result of a decade's worth of redesigns)".

Still, I remained skeptical that this design would be reliable. My concerns have been realized - Still crap; first failure under 2000 miles.

View attachment 719323

I'm too lazy to check, bit if you hunt around, say on the Manufacturer Communications portion of the NHTSB site, you may find the Tesla SB on this issue, which IIRC, says to replace the Handle Assy.

The Tesla warranty excludes damage caused by work not done using approved tools and procedures. If they are doing something other than that, then the SvC is liable.

Paste the warranty language and SB in the App and also print and place in the car.

 

[webshot]

You have skills. Have you considered opening a third party repair shop?

It does not pay enough!

If your in the Bay Area PM me, I'm always willing to help another MS owner on the weekends out of sympathy!