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2021+ Model S and Model S Plaid Refresh Issues Thread

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@boonedocks Similar story here. Electric is $.10-.11/kWh (mostly hydroelectric in WA), and a heat pump is 300% efficient (where resistance electric heat is 100%). Our electric bill for heat/AC/charging two 2021 Tesla's, and powering everything else in the house, ranges between $70 and $130/mo, with the winter months being closer to the $130 high water mark.
Just a quick pile on to the OP. You do not have to bypass the charger if you have a generator. It is a function (as many are stating here) of how large your generator is vs the optimal electrical load in your house. The Tesla WC will draw just under 10 kilowatts at 40 amps / 240 volts so unless you have a BAG (big a$$ generator) you will want to use a PMM or Power Management Module (Generac term/product) that cuts power to the WC when running on the generator. If you have an electric dryer and electric stove that you will operate when on the generator and charging your car, you could be looking at 20 kilowatts between those three loads alone then add in furnace/AC and then general operating loads. As a rule of thumb (and IMHO) I would say that if you have a generator larger than 22 kilowatts then probably a bypass not needed but if less, recommended. We have an 11 kW Generac that runs on natural gas and I have a bypass relay on the dryer and WC (1600 sq ft home) and the unit/configuration works perfectly (gas stove, gas furnace, gas water heater, gas fireplace and gas BBQ !). Just another perspective to share.
 
LR FSD picked up in Canada Toronto Sept 25, so far everything perfect except software update which I still have not had. Service says I still have the latest and there is nothing to push but It shows the latest update check was Sept 9 when the car was built rather than showing the current date and it has the original software 2021.24 and 2021.31.101.
Anyone similar situation?
 
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Just a quick pile on to the OP. You do not have to bypass the charger if you have a generator. It is a function (as many are stating here) of how large your generator is vs the optimal electrical load in your house. The Tesla WC will draw just under 10 kilowatts at 40 amps / 240 volts so unless you have a BAG (big a$$ generator) you will want to use a PMM or Power Management Module (Generac term/product) that cuts power to the WC when running on the generator. If you have an electric dryer and electric stove that you will operate when on the generator and charging your car, you could be looking at 20 kilowatts between those three loads alone then add in furnace/AC and then general operating loads. As a rule of thumb (and IMHO) I would say that if you have a generator larger than 22 kilowatts then probably a bypass not needed but if less, recommended. We have an 11 kW Generac that runs on natural gas and I have a bypass relay on the dryer and WC (1600 sq ft home) and the unit/configuration works perfectly (gas stove, gas furnace, gas water heater, gas fireplace and gas BBQ !). Just another perspective to share.

I also added load meters that show load on each of the two Generac busses. Normally well balanced and less than 1/3 of Generac capacity.
 
LR FSD picked up in Canada Toronto Sept 25, so far everything perfect except software update which I still have not had. Service says I still have the latest and there is nothing to push but It shows the latest update check was Sept 9 when the car was built rather than showing the current date and it has the original software 2021.24 and 2021.31.101.
Anyone similar situation?
September 25? It is connected to WIFI right? Usually it takes a couple days to update from the factory software build to the public release but it shouldnt take 30+ days if you took delivery on September 25.
 
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It says Wednesday in the app. They never verbally communicated how long it would take, though I would have expected dropping it off Thursday it would be fixed by Friday. But this is Tesla we’re talking about. At least it’s inside… - what with the somewhat crazy weather we’re having.
@WilliamG Did you get your car back yesterday? Report?
 
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Hey everyone, here's a new one that I don't think anyone has reported yet. It could be coincidental timing, but around the time I got the latest software (2021.36.5.1), I noticed a slight but constant buzz sound coming from the left side of the yoke, where the turn signals/scroll wheel are. I first thought it was static noise coming from the speakers but it's definitely coming from the yoke. Can't hear it when the car is moving but definitely audible when stopped. Maybe it's electrical. Anyone notice the same?
 
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Hey everyone, here's a new one that I don't think anyone has reported yet. It could be coincidental timing, but around the time I got the latest software (2021.36.5.1), I noticed a slight but constant buzz sound coming from the left side of the yoke, where the turn signals/scroll wheel are. I first thought it was static noise coming from the speakers but it's definitely coming from the yoke. Can't hear it when the car is moving but definitely audible when stopped. Maybe it's electrical. Anyone notice the same?
Maybe a problem with the haptic engine? I assume you tried a reboot?
 
Maybe a problem with the haptic engine? I assume you tried a reboot?
I'll try a reboot when I get home tonight, thanks for the suggestion! Maybe it's just bad gap/tolerances but on the left and right edges of the plastic panel where it meets the vegan handle, there's a small gap and I can hear it coming from there on the left side. I went as far as thinking maybe there's something related to ANC in there that's activating, hahaha.
 
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They wouldn’t take it today because it’s not an imminent safety threat, so instead i have to make an appointment, the earliest of which is in a month.

*sugar* first impression for a new owner, especially after the 8 month wait. Have to drive around for an entire month now with no suspension. Extremely disappointed

You mean your air suspension doesn't work? I'd tell them I can't get it to my garage because it's a steep climb and it'll bottom out.
 
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It can raise and lift if I push the button, but it's the dynamic dampening that doesn't work. So basically small bumps feel like big bumps when driving.

Two error codes I'm getting are DI_a250 and TAS2_a314
Did you try the hard reset? Press brake pedal and both scroll wheels until T emblem comes back on main screen. It’s like the Ctrl-Alt-Del of Teslas.
 
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