Fabrizio
Member
A friend of mine pointed me to a web site for insurance auctions. Today they have several Tesla's - MS (8983, 907, & 3837) and Roadsters (948 & 192). But you have to have a dealer license to bid.
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The roadster is listed again. "Buy it now" for 14500$.
I almost bought it. But I am from Germany and until I have it here, I would have had to pay 24420$ (Car price + , which is not a good deal anymore^^
That's too much, to repair it… unfortunately.
I almost bought it. But I am from Germany and until I have it here, I would have had to pay 24420$ (Car price + , which is not a good deal anymore^^
That's too much, to repair it… unfortunately.
the Roadster is in Germany now. It will probably get repaired to have one more excellent electric car in Germany
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wiztecy
Active Member
Ditto! Glad you bought it and are restoring it... too few of these babies around to loose them like grains of sand falling through your hands. Keeps a good log/pics of your progress!
I talked to the "junk yard" manager.. he took out the service disconnect, due to the damage it was easy to reach.
The batterie has 20 miles in it in range mode, but that's enough
The batterie has 20 miles in it in range mode, but that's enough
Might be a great thing to blog about... I'd read it!
Good luck with the restoration. I'm one of the guys who only know how put in gas and turn the car on and go... Now, I have problem with the first part (put in gas)...
Enjoy!
Thanks for the wishes, but I actually didn't buy it.
I wanted to buy the car after I had been sure that the batterie was ok, but the time I wanted to buy it the bank was closed and I wanted to save one day of storage fees at the salvage yard (65$) and buy it on Thursday morning. I talked about this to an acquaintance of mine, who is interested in Tesla in general. I shouldn't have done that.
Well, I think I taught him too much and he just bought the car after our conversation.
Yesterday I had a look at the car. Looked as expected, additionally the front and rear window is broken.
I still have to decide whether to help him or not with the restoration. It would be really interesting but I am kind of pi**ed off by that guy, right now.
As expected the car shows several errors:
-BSM: Contactor power failure (ID: 271)
-TPMS: Hardware error (ID:409)
-SWP: APS off, but no pulse from BPS (ID 420)
Any ideas, what these errors mean? Maybe I can still buy it from him, if he gets bored by his new toy or just buy some other wrecked Roadster.
Does anyone know, if theres exist a schematic of the Roadster anywhere in the web?
I wanted to buy the car after I had been sure that the batterie was ok, but the time I wanted to buy it the bank was closed and I wanted to save one day of storage fees at the salvage yard (65$) and buy it on Thursday morning. I talked about this to an acquaintance of mine, who is interested in Tesla in general. I shouldn't have done that.
Well, I think I taught him too much and he just bought the car after our conversation.
Yesterday I had a look at the car. Looked as expected, additionally the front and rear window is broken.
I still have to decide whether to help him or not with the restoration. It would be really interesting but I am kind of pi**ed off by that guy, right now.
As expected the car shows several errors:
-BSM: Contactor power failure (ID: 271)
-TPMS: Hardware error (ID:409)
-SWP: APS off, but no pulse from BPS (ID 420)
Any ideas, what these errors mean? Maybe I can still buy it from him, if he gets bored by his new toy or just buy some other wrecked Roadster.
Does anyone know, if theres exist a schematic of the Roadster anywhere in the web?
BSM contactor power failure sounds serious, but might not be
TPMS is not important - that is the tire pressure monitoring system. The system tends to lose track of the wheels even when it is working!
Not sure about the third one
As for your friend... you have very good reason to be pissed. That's not something a friend does.
TPMS is not important - that is the tire pressure monitoring system. The system tends to lose track of the wheels even when it is working!
Not sure about the third one
As for your friend... you have very good reason to be pissed. That's not something a friend does.
wiztecy
Active Member
I've had the same contactor power failure when washing my roadster, the 1.5's use inductive charging. Was the car just washed? If the motor gets "shorted" in the charge circuit that'll trigger. Take a look down there to make sure no cables have not shifted and shorted. I had a TMPS failure when putting in my HID balasts under the passenger wheel well. I snugged up the connection and everything worked well again. I knew I stressed/tugged that connection / cable when doing my lights so it was an easy reverse for me to get rid of the code. You won't find a thing on codes / schematics / documentation on any of this stuff. Its for us to organize and formulate what's what from hear on until a manual is repair manual is produced.
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Thanks for your answers.
The HID ballast is some kind of external load for the lights, as far as I learned from google, correct?
One thing I noticed was the "satellite trigger" cable at the rear left fender was torn off. What does this thing do? Is it a GPS Tracker?
I already read your BSM error thread, wiztecy. That makes perfect sense, the cooling fluid drops (even splashes when the pump is on) down from the right side between PEM and ESS. Additionally the PEM is open and the car is parked outside^^
The 3rd error might be caused by the broken PCB around the charging port, which has the LED's on it. Not sure, but that's the only broken thing besides the satellite trigger, I am aware of.
The HID ballast is some kind of external load for the lights, as far as I learned from google, correct?
One thing I noticed was the "satellite trigger" cable at the rear left fender was torn off. What does this thing do? Is it a GPS Tracker?
I already read your BSM error thread, wiztecy. That makes perfect sense, the cooling fluid drops (even splashes when the pump is on) down from the right side between PEM and ESS. Additionally the PEM is open and the car is parked outside^^
The 3rd error might be caused by the broken PCB around the charging port, which has the LED's on it. Not sure, but that's the only broken thing besides the satellite trigger, I am aware of.
Only error 271 is left. It just shows the error message with the ID 271, no Insulation faults or so...
Could it be caused by a broken PCB with the LED's on it at the charge port?
ID 420 was something with the 12 V supply, but appears again after the car is shut down completely by the service disconnect. So we still have to figure out, what it is exactly.
ID 409 was caused by some bad connection close to the fender, thanks wiztecy and Doug_G
Could it be caused by a broken PCB with the LED's on it at the charge port?
ID 420 was something with the 12 V supply, but appears again after the car is shut down completely by the service disconnect. So we still have to figure out, what it is exactly.
ID 409 was caused by some bad connection close to the fender, thanks wiztecy and Doug_G
#34 is alive, again
Took apart the batterie pack and found the error after 2-3 hours of investigation. There's a small switch in the service disconnect, which didn't work.
Took apart the batterie pack and found the error after 2-3 hours of investigation. There's a small switch in the service disconnect, which didn't work.
#34 is alive, again
Took apart the batterie pack and found the error after 2-3 hours of investigation. There's a small switch in the service disconnect, which didn't work.
Wow you pulled out the battery. I am told the battery is 975 lbs 450 kgs, no small feat as it comes out the bottom. Was it that hard and do you have any pictures?
TonyWilliams
Active Member
Normally, you would lift the car and place a cart under the battery. Unbolt / disconnect, etc, and RAISE the car leaving the battery.
I put a palette under the batterie, unbolted / disconnected it and raised the car with one tractor in front and one at the back of the car.
It's definitely challenging, but can be done. Well, wouldn't do it just for fun
I'll look for a picture later.
It's definitely challenging, but can be done. Well, wouldn't do it just for fun
I'll look for a picture later.
wiztecy
Active Member
I put a palette under the batterie, unbolted / disconnected it and raised the car with one tractor in front and one at the back of the car.
It's definitely challenging, but can be done. Well, wouldn't do it just for fun
I'll look for a picture later.
Awesome Marco, did you actually open the battery case? Where was the service disconnect? I' guess on the outside of the case. Would be great if you have any pics of the whole process. Thanks for sharing.
Yes, I opened it and took all modules out, because I wanted to get rid of the dent in the batterie case. When you look at the pack from behind, the service disconnect is on the left side of the pack. You don't see the little switch, if you don't know about it. I just saw two small wires going into the socket of the connector inside the batterie case.
I won't post any detailed pics, because I don't want Tesla to be mad about it.
Wow congratulations Marco! You are the first person that I know of who has opened a Roadster battery pack (outside of Tesla). And you were able to put it back together so it works! I assume you are able to charge it now? I'm very impressed.
Did it look like it would be difficult to open the sheets in case somebody wanted to install newer, larger capacity cells?
Please keep us posted on anything else you discover.