After Market Amplified Subwoofer and front speakers on a 23’ Tesla Model 3 RWD

[CKwik240]

$3k? Who in the world would pay that money for a speaker and amp?

No one I know of. But this is 12 speakers, a a sub, an amp and all the parts to be pretty close to plug and play. It's not out just yet so it's unknown how well it's tuned and how it sounds, but conceivably they could have created a well balanced system. Of course there will be some subjectivity to that.

I paid $300 for 12” subwoofer with enclosure, 750w amp and wiring kit from Skar.

I don’t think the alpine will hit as hard as my current system.

I doubt it's intended to hit that hard. Seems more like an incremental but comprehensive upgrade. Still 200W RMS on the sub alone should be plenty strong for most people. I'm thinking many EV owners would like to keep any impacts to take minimal so am incremental upgrade may be just the thing. Certainly, being from a mainstream brand is likely to appeal to many.

Oddly enough, there is an 11-speaker + sub version for the base sound system for the same price. I'd reckon there is a lot more bang for the buck there even with 2 less speakers, but it seems like it would be slightly cheaper.

I'm not really in the market for an upgrade myself (an ad came up on my Instagram feed yesterday for some reason), but I'm told I have a pretty substantial discount on Alpine products, so if reviews are good and the price is right, I may consider it. I don't think I'd consider it at MSRP.

 

[PlanetExpress]

Brother I’m in the process of ordering the parts for the dash speaker install.

Did you use any kind of 3d adapters? Or these speakers don’t require adapters? Also what wires did you use? For $18 I found wired harness ready to go.

Here is my experience with the Infinitys:

Aftermarker Sound Upgrade of 3 Front 4" speakers

 

[Getchkix]

I'm going to get the alpine plug/play kit for my 22 M3P from Hepa-Kings. I also have a audiocontrol ACM-2.300 for my subwoofer. Have Focal-Inside's installed on the stock system already.

Need to figure out if I have to bring the voltage down for my 300w sub amp or not. It'd signal sense off the alpine amp, which also signal senses to power on.

 

[Panams16]

I'm going to get the alpine plug/play kit for my 22 M3P from Hepa-Kings. I also have a audiocontrol ACM-2.300 for my subwoofer. Have Focal-Inside's installed on the stock system already.

Need to figure out if I have to bring the voltage down for my 300w sub amp or not. It'd signal sense off the alpine amp, which also signal senses to power on.

Just make sure your amp supports up to 15.5/16v

I moved on from small wattage systems had all kinds of amps with stock electrical (meaning no extra battery) you can go up to 1000w with a few amplifiers without having to add a relay isolator and resistor.

I’m currently on 2500w system.

 

[Getchkix]

Just make sure your amp supports up to 15.5/16v

I moved on from small wattage systems had all kinds of amps with stock electrical (meaning no extra battery) you can go up to 1000w with a few amplifiers without having to add a relay isolator and resistor.

I’m currently on 2500w system.

Its tested at 14.5V, not 15.5v/16v so yea its a concern of mine. Do you amps support such high voltage or do they just happen to work fine without an isoloator / resistor?

 

[Panams16]

Its tested at 14.5V, not 15.5v/16v so yea its a concern of mine. Do you amps support such high voltage or do they just happen to work fine without an isoloator / resistor?

Never tried lower voltage amps just for that reason.

Most of the higher wattage and branded amps support up to 16v, voltage has nothing to do with the isolator, there’s amps that draw more current and amps, the stoc electrics will trigger the computer and will give you error alerts and limit your 16v stock battery on Tesla.

If you planning to go on a bigger amp and sub then yes you might need that. But up to 750w system you will be banging with no issues.

when I started this thread I was going for a cheap Rockville preamped sub enclosure, thankfull did not do that and moved on separate amp
And subwoofer as my bass taste is more on the aggressive side lol.

Our Tesla model 3 and Y with the 16v running consistently at 15.58 maybe a bit more on voltage.

If your amp is good enough it will not blow, but it will overheat with providing more voltage, I would not suggest that as every other normal person will tell you, use what’s recommended for your equipment. Or just move on to a capable equipment for the electrics we got.

 

[alex_seattle09]

Best I can tell, the front door woofer signal is full range

In 2023 RWD the front door woofer gets about 40Hz - 150Hz range with a very steep roll off at about 45Hz.

I tried different powered subwoofers and measured frequency response using REW. I didn’t like the sound because they didn’t provide much response under 40Hz and there was lots of unpleasant boominess in the 50Hz-100Hz range.

What I’m planning to do now is to try a sub amp with auto-correction (Kicker Key 500.1) and a 12” sub. My hope is that I can get flat frequency response from that setup for 25Hz-45Hz range. This Kicker amp does work at 15.8V.

More details about frequency responses for different speakers:

Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 2: Audio Testing

Blog about various hobby and engineering projects including mechanical, electrical, and software

www.travisllado.com

There

 

[Panams16]

In 2023 RWD the front door woofer gets about 40Hz - 150Hz range with a very steep roll off at about 45Hz.

I tried different powered subwoofers and measured frequency response using REW. I didn’t like the sound because they didn’t provide much response under 40Hz and there was lots of unpleasant boominess in the 50Hz-100Hz range.

What I’m planning to do now is to try a sub amp with auto-correction (Kicker Key 500.1) and a 12” sub. My hope is that I can get flat frequency response from that setup for 25Hz-45Hz range. This Kicker amp does work at 15.8V.

More details about frequency responses for different speakers:

Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 2: Audio Testing

Blog about various hobby and engineering projects including mechanical, electrical, and software

www.travisllado.com

In 2023 RWD the front door woofer gets about 40Hz - 150Hz range with a very steep roll off at about 45Hz.

I tried different powered subwoofers and measured frequency response using REW. I didn’t like the sound because they didn’t provide much response under 40Hz and there was lots of unpleasant boominess in the 50Hz-100Hz range.

What I’m planning to do now is to try a sub amp with auto-correction (Kicker Key 500.1) and a 12” sub. My hope is that I can get flat frequency response from that setup for 25Hz-45Hz range. This Kicker amp does work at 15.8V.

More details about frequency responses for different speakers:

Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 2: Audio Testing

Blog about various hobby and engineering projects including mechanical, electrical, and software

www.travisllado.com

There

You trying to play down to 25hz with a kicker 500w? Unless you got a box and a sub plus the power to play that low then i don’t think you’ll reach that low.
I got a massive sundown xv3 12 on a JP23 1.5 on a tuned enclosure and I’m pushing down to 29hz.

Unless I understood something wrong from your build.

 

[FreqFlyer]

 

[PlanetExpress]

In 2023 RWD the front door woofer gets about 40Hz - 150Hz range with a very steep roll off at about 45Hz.

I tried different powered subwoofers and measured frequency response using REW. I didn’t like the sound because they didn’t provide much response under 40Hz and there was lots of unpleasant boominess in the 50Hz-100Hz range.

What I’m planning to do now is to try a sub amp with auto-correction (Kicker Key 500.1) and a 12” sub. My hope is that I can get flat frequency response from that setup for 25Hz-45Hz range. This Kicker amp does work at 15.8V.

More details about frequency responses for different speakers:

Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 2: Audio Testing

Blog about various hobby and engineering projects including mechanical, electrical, and software

www.travisllado.com

There

Here is my raw response for a 10" sub in the sub-trunk and 8" Skar in the left door. I've got everything running active through a DSP, but again this is with no tuning. I can't remember for sure, but I must have mixed in the dash signal for the door woofer to get that flat response above 125. The sub has some huge cancelation centered at about 62, I imagine with a sub behind the seats that cancelation would be a bit higher. You said you have boominess from 50-100, which is about where these graphs would have the most summing. Are you running the sub that high? The door woofers play plenty low, if you don't have a high pass crossover on them you'll need to choose a sub low pass frequency that plays nicely with the natural door woofer slope. I'd try going lower on your LPF, maybe as low as 50 to get rid of that boomy summing up to 100.

I'm sure a 12" sub will have a shallower rolloff towards 20, but if you really want that 20-45 response you may have to do a LPF at 30-40 and crank the gain. A bass correcting/restoring amp might do the trick, like you mentioned, or you could get a cheap 1-2 channel DSP and tune the sub to your liking.

 

[PlanetExpress]

In 2023 RWD the front door woofer gets about 40Hz - 150Hz range with a very steep roll off at about 45Hz.

I tried different powered subwoofers and measured frequency response using REW. I didn’t like the sound because they didn’t provide much response under 40Hz and there was lots of unpleasant boominess in the 50Hz-100Hz range.

What I’m planning to do now is to try a sub amp with auto-correction (Kicker Key 500.1) and a 12” sub. My hope is that I can get flat frequency response from that setup for 25Hz-45Hz range. This Kicker amp does work at 15.8V.

More details about frequency responses for different speakers:

Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 2: Audio Testing

Blog about various hobby and engineering projects including mechanical, electrical, and software

www.travisllado.com

There

Here is a near-field response from my door woofer with no HPF or EQ. The low end roll-off is fairly linear down to 20. I read the article you referenced, and his measurements are similar to what I got from the listening position with a steeper bass roll-off, but the near-field shows that the 20hz signal is there. He is also measuring a premium audio system, which may have a different EQ for the door bass than the RWD since it can depend on the subwoofer for the 20-45hz. This same signal sent to a subwoofer should have an even flatter response, since this response is from an 8" with low excursion.

And here is my overall curve after tuning, but I've done a little work on the midrange since then. 20hz is at about the same level as 50. I didn't boost anything, only cut. If I wanted to, and I might give it a try, I could flatten the hump between 20 and 50 and this would be fairly close to the Harman Curve where bass and midbass are concerned. I could do this just by lowering my sub's LPF point. My point is the signal is there, you can get your 20hz BOOM. Try setting your LPF to 30-50hz so you aren't contributing to the already overpowering 100hz area in the doors, and lower the bass on your EQ.