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An Audio guys impression of the Model 3 Highland LR

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I test-drove the refreshed Long Range Model 3 today, and the refresh is pretty significant (I own a '23 Model 3 RWD). The suspension and front seat "noise" are impressive. Materials seem very similar, but the door thud is much better. I could live with the lack of a DNR stalk, but it would take a while on the turn signals. I only found myself feeling for the stalk on the first turn, but I did have to look down to find the correct button every turn after.

Now on to the audio!

For context, I have an upgraded stereo in the RWD, Speaker activation harness to activate the tweeters, and pillar speakers with the level reduced, and breaking out the door woofer signals to run an aftermarket subwoofer, ScanSpeak 10F's in the dash/rear doors, Focal ISU200 set in the front doors, Kicker L7T8 with Kicker 500W amp with a factory premium subwoofer enclosure.

IMG_1036.JPG


First, the new version is a night and day improvement over the stock stereo in a RWD (the old premium system was already a pretty significant improvement). It's also an improvement to the old premium system, especially in the bass. With the subs mounted to the rear deck, they are noticeably punchy compared to the side compartment trunk sub. I think it might even beat my upgraded system with respect to punchiness as most of my punch comes from the focals in the doors. I don't have enough hours with the old premium system to give a thorough comparison, so I will reference the stock RWD, and my upgraded RWD systems.

Bass - I already started here, but now I'll elaborate. Although the build quality seems better, it's still easy to excite horrible resonance in the car if you bump up the sub-level in the EQ and these aren't extreme levels by any measure. Why Tesla couldn't you target these resonances and get rid of them???? It seems some of it is the rear parcel shelf (where the subs are mounted) and/or the C pillar or rear roof area. Depending on the bass frequency you can excite resonance in the front doors as well, both are very annoying. Enough complaining, the overall bass output is good, and this will satisfy the majority of people, it doesn't extend very low as the lowest octave is MIA. There's a bit of exaggeration in the upper bass which may explain why it seems very punchy, but this just hides some of the low bass when the two happen simultaneously.

Midbass, I'd be willing to bet these are similar to the old 7" drivers in the doors, bass output and tone are similar to my ears.

Midrange, this sounds different to me, perhaps it's just tuning but I wouldn't be surprised if these were different drivers this time around. There's also a small midrange in the door just above the woofer. What I didn't get was the same sense of a centre channel speaker, so imaging wasn't that great and I could clearly pinpoint the left tweeter in the pillar and the left mid on the dash. This could be tuning again with less information and level going to the centre, or maybe it's not there at all. The stage height was also lower, the upper pillar speakers aren't there anymore, and the grill size is similar to the mids in the doors now, maybe they just moved?

Tweeters, are refreshingly there compared to a RWD that doesn't use them, but very easy to pinpoint compared to my upgraded system where you can't pinpoint any of the speakers shy of the door woofer when you can directly feel the bass hit your leg. I'm not sure if it's the lower range of the tweeter or the upper range of the mid but the system seems "shouty" This isn't the best description but it borders on harsh with some female vocals or upper midrange sounds. I didn't play with the EQ much, but perhaps you can tame this a bit.

The biggest overall difference between my upgraded system and this new Highland is the Highland seems to have a veil, like you are listening from another room or the speakers have a blanket over them. This difference was the same from both the factory mids in the RWD and Infinity Ref 4032's as well as the old premium system and going to the ScanSpeaks, they are incredibly clear, many people's reaction to my system now is it's "clean". Second the low bass and overall bass quality is lacking compared to the kicker amp/sub combo. The kicker is smooth from low to high bass ranges, it's accurate, detailed and the low end is fuller, it's not perfect, it's still just an 8" woofer. A time aligned and EQ'd 12-15" woofer would easily beat what I have but use valuable space.

So to those of you with an existing RWD or Premium model 3, the new system is better in almost every way. I'd need a bit more seat time and a variety of music to understand the staging and imaging, but I'd almost say that with immersive sound enabled the old premium system might be better (only for staging and imaging). Having said that, not ready for a highland? You can do better even in a RWD with some upgrades.

That suspension though, it's fantastic (the highland and my car both on 18" winter tires), that lack of a turn signal stalk, why Tesla why???
 
I have the "old" premium system. My biggest complaint is the harsh high end - "shouty" as you called it. Not sure if this is the cabin itself being so much glass, or the system. As you mentioned, a large portion of the bass comes from the drivers in the doors.
 
Looking forward to hearing this. We have had three Model 3’s and honestly I have always felt the sound systems were totally unremarkable.
The schematics and parts are now available on Teslas service site for the new model 3. I've started to compare old vs new and there are some errors in the documentation, however most of the speaker part numbers match the old ones. The upper A-pillar speakers seem to have been moved into the door as I speculated. The 4" mids seem to be the same, door woofers and tweeters are the same. The main change is the old subwoofer enclosure being replaced by two subwoofers in the rear parcel shelf. The changes must be mainly in the amplifiers, EQ/DSP.
 
The schematics and parts are now available on Teslas service site for the new model 3. I've started to compare old vs new and there are some errors in the documentation, however most of the speaker part numbers match the old ones. The upper A-pillar speakers seem to have been moved into the door as I speculated. The 4" mids seem to be the same, door woofers and tweeters are the same. The main change is the old subwoofer enclosure being replaced by two subwoofers in the rear parcel shelf. The changes must be mainly in the amplifiers, EQ/DSP.
What size are the upper door speakers?

Can you give us a list of locations for each LR speaker? Or supply the link and I’ll stop being lazy!
 
What size are the upper door speakers?

Can you give us a list of locations for each LR speaker? Or supply the link and I’ll stop being lazy!

I subscribed a year or so ago and it was free. I assume it still is.

Part numbers can be found in the "Parts Catalog" there's also a lot of good info under Schematics as well. Both are under the "Infotainment" section.
 
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The schematics and parts are now available on Teslas service site for the new model 3. I've started to compare old vs new and there are some errors in the documentation, however most of the speaker part numbers match the old ones. The upper A-pillar speakers seem to have been moved into the door as I speculated. The 4" mids seem to be the same, door woofers and tweeters are the same. The main change is the old subwoofer enclosure being replaced by two subwoofers in the rear parcel shelf. The changes must be mainly in the amplifiers, EQ/DSP.
Do you have a sense of what opportunity there might be to recover the missing low end w/ aftermarket subs at the rear parcel shelf? Is there physical clearance for a larger diameter or meatier magnet w/o significant modification? Or is just missing signal in the first place? I've a Premium system in a 2018 LR w/ upgraded (Focal) front door woofers and tweeters now FWIW - I don't feel the current system is particularly lacking now save for below ~35Hz. I've often wondered if they've rolled it off to avoid having to deal w/ whatever additional interior resonance might be triggered (and since many / most probably won't notice).
 
Do you have a sense of what opportunity there might be to recover the missing low end w/ aftermarket subs at the rear parcel shelf? Is there physical clearance for a larger diameter or meatier magnet w/o significant modification? Or is just missing signal in the first place? I've a Premium system in a 2018 LR w/ upgraded (Focal) front door woofers and tweeters now FWIW - I don't feel the current system is particularly lacking now save for below ~35Hz. I've often wondered if they've rolled it off to avoid having to deal w/ whatever additional interior resonance might be triggered (and since many / most probably won't notice).
There's always a way to install something else it's all about how much modification is required, and nothing is going to drop in. As for your existing system, it's an 8" woofer, you simply aren't going to get the lowest octave at reasonable output without a much more complex system IE double the power and DSP, or simply a much larger subwoofer.

Having come from the SPL world in my youth, it's not really the lowest octave that typically has bad resonance, so I'm sure they didn't roll it off on purpose, it's the simple physics of producing low bass at high volumes.
 
There's always a way to install something else it's all about how much modification is required, and nothing is going to drop in. As for your existing system, it's an 8" woofer, you simply aren't going to get the lowest octave at reasonable output without a much more complex system IE double the power and DSP, or simply a much larger subwoofer.

Having come from the SPL world in my youth, it's not really the lowest octave that typically has bad resonance, so I'm sure they didn't roll it off on purpose, it's the simple physics of producing low bass at high volumes.
Yes, understood wrt my current system - I was just offering that up for context. On the topic of "nothing is going to drop in" - what'd be required to mount something larger (probably ~10" )? I think I draw the line at cutting into sheet metal, but would otherwise be game to modify.

I don't really care about crazy SPL... just want to fill in what's missing (so long as it's accurate and tight and can rise above road noise).

I don't believe these have been updated for the refresh Model 3, but something like this would be ideal if it included parcel deck subwoofer options that delivered sub ~35Hz: T3Y : new tesla® compatible kits

But perhaps it's unrealistic to expect something that wouldn't also require an aftermarket amp to adequately supply larger magnets (even if aftermarket has a chance at delivering better efficiency). Why do you think a DSP would be needed in this setup though?
 
Yes, understood wrt my current system - I was just offering that up for context. On the topic of "nothing is going to drop in" - what'd be required to mount something larger (probably ~10" )? I think I draw the line at cutting into sheet metal, but would otherwise be game to modify.

I don't really care about crazy SPL... just want to fill in what's missing (so long as it's accurate and tight and can rise above road noise).

I don't believe these have been updated for the refresh Model 3, but something like this would be ideal if it included parcel deck subwoofer options that delivered sub ~35Hz: T3Y : new tesla® compatible kits

But perhaps it's unrealistic to expect something that wouldn't also require an aftermarket amp to adequately supply larger magnets (even if aftermarket has a chance at delivering better efficiency). Why do you think a DSP would be needed in this setup though?
I honestly don't think any "upgrade" solution (factory subwoofer enclosure in the older 3) is getting you below 35hz. You will just need a larger woofer. The reason I mention DSP is that they can work some magic for leveraging physics to make the response of smaller woofers extend lower than would otherwise be possible with a normal sealed or ported enclosure. Usually, these systems trade some efficiency for the lower extension so more power is typically required.

I'm sure the aftermarket will catch up with the Highland, quicker than it did with the original model 3 as there are massive sales numbers already, so the potential market is huge.

To be clear I don't have a highland, I have a '23 RWD so while I'm sure I can design adapters to make use of different subwoofers, I'll need a car for reference or even a stock subwoofer and some measurements and photos. Hopefully, the subwoofers mount from the bottom and we can just use adapters to install larger subwoofers with a small impact on trunk space. However, for efficient manufacturing, there's a good chance the woofers go in from the top before the rear glass goes in. Only time will tell.
 
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Hopefully, the subwoofers mount from the bottom and we can just use adapters to install larger subwoofers with a small impact on trunk space. However, for efficient manufacturing, there's a good chance the woofers go in from the top before the rear glass goes in. Only time will tell.
Not entirely sure I'm correct about what I'm looking at, but this seems to suggest they're installed from the top (and that there's a good chance sheet metal would need modifying in many cases):

 
I have the "old" premium system. My biggest complaint is the harsh high end - "shouty" as you called it. Not sure if this is the cabin itself being so much glass, or the system. As you mentioned, a large portion of the bass comes from the drivers in the doors.

which is good for stereo imaging and neutral sound but has a tendency to make the doors rattle to kickdrums unfortunately especially with the bass turned up. ive been dynamating and foam inserting the whole car and its still not perfect. my last attempt will be to stuff foam behind the woofer cones and maybe some dynamat on the inside of the door behind the woofer inside the window compartment...

im glad to see the punch is much better. it something the original model 3 kinda lacks and which they already upgraded in the 2023 performance i had as a loaner when my 2019 car was getting a new battery. the car had noticeably more punchy bass.
 
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I test-drove the refreshed Long Range Model 3 today, and the refresh is pretty significant (I own a '23 Model 3 RWD). The suspension and front seat "noise" are impressive. Materials seem very similar, but the door thud is much better. I could live with the lack of a DNR stalk, but it would take a while on the turn signals. I only found myself feeling for the stalk on the first turn, but I did have to look down to find the correct button every turn after.

Now on to the audio!

For context, I have an upgraded stereo in the RWD, Speaker activation harness to activate the tweeters, and pillar speakers with the level reduced, and breaking out the door woofer signals to run an aftermarket subwoofer, ScanSpeak 10F's in the dash/rear doors, Focal ISU200 set in the front doors, Kicker L7T8 with Kicker 500W amp with a factory premium subwoofer enclosure.

View attachment 1016661

First, the new version is a night and day improvement over the stock stereo in a RWD (the old premium system was already a pretty significant improvement). It's also an improvement to the old premium system, especially in the bass. With the subs mounted to the rear deck, they are noticeably punchy compared to the side compartment trunk sub. I think it might even beat my upgraded system with respect to punchiness as most of my punch comes from the focals in the doors. I don't have enough hours with the old premium system to give a thorough comparison, so I will reference the stock RWD, and my upgraded RWD systems.

Bass - I already started here, but now I'll elaborate. Although the build quality seems better, it's still easy to excite horrible resonance in the car if you bump up the sub-level in the EQ and these aren't extreme levels by any measure. Why Tesla couldn't you target these resonances and get rid of them???? It seems some of it is the rear parcel shelf (where the subs are mounted) and/or the C pillar or rear roof area. Depending on the bass frequency you can excite resonance in the front doors as well, both are very annoying. Enough complaining, the overall bass output is good, and this will satisfy the majority of people, it doesn't extend very low as the lowest octave is MIA. There's a bit of exaggeration in the upper bass which may explain why it seems very punchy, but this just hides some of the low bass when the two happen simultaneously.

Midbass, I'd be willing to bet these are similar to the old 7" drivers in the doors, bass output and tone are similar to my ears.

Midrange, this sounds different to me, perhaps it's just tuning but I wouldn't be surprised if these were different drivers this time around. There's also a small midrange in the door just above the woofer. What I didn't get was the same sense of a centre channel speaker, so imaging wasn't that great and I could clearly pinpoint the left tweeter in the pillar and the left mid on the dash. This could be tuning again with less information and level going to the centre, or maybe it's not there at all. The stage height was also lower, the upper pillar speakers aren't there anymore, and the grill size is similar to the mids in the doors now, maybe they just moved?

Tweeters, are refreshingly there compared to a RWD that doesn't use them, but very easy to pinpoint compared to my upgraded system where you can't pinpoint any of the speakers shy of the door woofer when you can directly feel the bass hit your leg. I'm not sure if it's the lower range of the tweeter or the upper range of the mid but the system seems "shouty" This isn't the best description but it borders on harsh with some female vocals or upper midrange sounds. I didn't play with the EQ much, but perhaps you can tame this a bit.

The biggest overall difference between my upgraded system and this new Highland is the Highland seems to have a veil, like you are listening from another room or the speakers have a blanket over them. This difference was the same from both the factory mids in the RWD and Infinity Ref 4032's as well as the old premium system and going to the ScanSpeaks, they are incredibly clear, many people's reaction to my system now is it's "clean". Second the low bass and overall bass quality is lacking compared to the kicker amp/sub combo. The kicker is smooth from low to high bass ranges, it's accurate, detailed and the low end is fuller, it's not perfect, it's still just an 8" woofer. A time aligned and EQ'd 12-15" woofer would easily beat what I have but use valuable space.

So to those of you with an existing RWD or Premium model 3, the new system is better in almost every way. I'd need a bit more seat time and a variety of music to understand the staging and imaging, but I'd almost say that with immersive sound enabled the old premium system might be better (only for staging and imaging). Having said that, not ready for a highland? You can do better even in a RWD with some upgrades.

That suspension though, it's fantastic (the highland and my car both on 18" winter tires), that lack of a turn signal stalk, why Tesla why???
I just bought a ‘24 M3RWD and can confirm the sound system is under whelming compared to old LR system. The rear speakers on the RWD ‘24 are bad IMO. The system feels and sounds incomplete in the RWD model.

I haven’t decided if I’m keeping the car for long term, and if I do that rear speaker setup is definitely getting an upgrade.
 
I just bought a ‘24 M3RWD and can confirm the sound system is under whelming compared to old LR system. The rear speakers on the RWD ‘24 are bad IMO. The system feels and sounds incomplete in the RWD model.

I haven’t decided if I’m keeping the car for long term, and if I do that rear speaker setup is definitely getting an upgrade.
The old RWD also doesn't have the same rear speaker set up as the LR, however your most noticeable improvements in quality will always come from the front. (Unless you are just referring to the lack of subwoofer). It looks like the speakers in the '24 are virtually unchanged, so upgrades should be almost the same as the old car, The LR has 4 rear speakers and the RWD only has 2 so the sound coming from behind you sounds different, there's a good chance the mounting locations for the extra 2 rear speakers exist, but may or may not have wiring in place, and you might need to do something like the speaker activation harness to give them power, as always being careful not to overload existing amplifier channels and potentially causing damage. If it's the lack of subwoofer you are referring to that's a different story, the new subwoofer mounting locations don't make for an easy upgrade without cutting metal or installing a standalone subwoofer enclosure (and amp of course).