Does this method give it 24/7 power?@chumanji9 Here's the USB cable routing for my ROAV C1 dashcam:
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Plugged into one of the USB ports in the center console. Goes up between the side panel and phone tray. I'm using a right angle USB hub to also connect the Tesla dashcam thumbdrive and Apple Lightning charge cable.
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Cable exits between phone tray and side panel and goes up against the dash and drops down...
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...to loop up into the channel at the bottom of the glovebox.
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Cable goes across towards the door and...
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...exits near the seam between the kick panel and end of the dashboard and goes up into the rubber door seal.
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The cable exits the rubber seal at the bottom of the A pillar and is routed between the pillar and dash and goes towards the front of the car.
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Cable is pushed down between the dash and pillar. It normally is more hidden; I've lifted it up so you can see it. Goes up to the windshield and then heads up, wedged between the glass and headliner material. At the top of the windshield it bends towards the rear view mirror assembly.
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Once it's at the mirror/camera assembly, it drops down and I've looped it around the mirror so the end of the cable doesn't dangle too far when it is unplugged from the ROAV.
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Here it is plugged into my dashcam. I'm using a right angle plug as I wanted the cable going "up" from the dashcam, instead of "out", so I could mount the camera as close as possible to the mirror assembly. The camera slides onto a plastic plate which is held onto the glass using one of those high-adhesive pads, although I was able to remove it from my old BMW when I moved it to the Tesla.
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Aftermarket Dashcam
- Thread starter chumanji9
- Start date
FastEddieB
Member
I posted this dashcam video from a relatively inexpensive AZDOME dashcam
elsewhere:
I don‘t have the Tesla front dashcam video available right now, but it was essentially worthless. Due to its narrow field-of-view it basically just showed the traffic light, and the camera shaking at the moment of impact.
So my vote is that even a cheap dashcam is a worthwhile addition.
To those who didn’t catch the other thread, what the left side camera caught was enough to tease out the tag of the hit-and-run vehicle. Court date for the offending driver is Wednesday and I’ll update on the outcome.
elsewhere:
I don‘t have the Tesla front dashcam video available right now, but it was essentially worthless. Due to its narrow field-of-view it basically just showed the traffic light, and the camera shaking at the moment of impact.
So my vote is that even a cheap dashcam is a worthwhile addition.
To those who didn’t catch the other thread, what the left side camera caught was enough to tease out the tag of the hit-and-run vehicle. Court date for the offending driver is Wednesday and I’ll update on the outcome.
RayK
Active Member
Not any more, as far as I know. Early on, the center console USB ports were active all the time. Then a software update was released that killed the power to those ports when the car went to sleep. I think that's still the case, although I've not tested for it since.
edit: If Sentry Mode is active, then I do think the USB ports have power. But that causes a fairly big drain on the main battery so beware. If you want 24/7 USB power for a dashcam, then I see you have two options, neither one comes without problems: wire directly to the 12V battery or provide a separate 5V source of your own. Wiring to the car's 12V battery (through a voltage converter - 12V to 5V) can have problems if the system detects an excessive drain on the battery. The battery management system might think your 12V battery is failing (i.e., a false error) and issue warnings about it. An external 5V battery, much like those portable USB battery packs, would have to be removed periodically to recharge (dependent upon how much power the dashcam consumes).
edit2: From the Model 3 Owner's manual (Interior Storage and Electronics):
Note
Power is available whenever the vehicle is considered "awake". The vehicle may be awake for many reasons. For example, when using features such as Summon, or when features such as Preconditioning, Keep Climate On, Dog Mode, Camp Mode, Sentry Mode, etc. are enabled. The vehicle is also awake whenever the low voltage battery is being charged or is in use, during HV charging, when the vehicle is communicating with the mobile app, etc. Leaving an accessory plugged in does not deplete the low voltage battery.
Last edited:
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
There is a 3rd method, which is taking power from the dome/hazard light location. However, your dashcam must tolerate 9V power (as it drops to that when car is sleeping). Discussed upthread:
Aftermarket Dashcam
RayK
Active Member
Ah, forgot about that one. If you can find a commercial 12V-to-5V converter that guarantees the USB 5V, at enough current to power the dashcam and does so when the input voltage is 9V, that can work. Said converter can be as simple as using a zener diode (and associated resistor and possibly a decoupling capacitor) or a standard 3-pin voltage regulator such as a 7805.
