Anyone want to help modify a Radio Flyer Model S?

[Thebruhh]

Just checked mine. Both rear wheels go in forward and both wheels go in reverse in both speed ranges.

Do you (or anyone in this thread) know where to buy a replacement rocker switch? I'm thinking mine is faulty. After checking all the connections, after messing around with the rocker switch the motors started to work briefly. Makes me want to start there as the pedal assembly seems to be working okay.

Also wondering if I can just bypass the rocker switch and hard wire with the "2" fast speed setting. I'm just not sure how the wiring schematic looks inside of the rocker switch without taking it apart.

 

[David.85D]

Are you asking about the fast/slow switch or the forward/reverse?

 

[Thebruhh]

Are you asking about the fast/slow switch or the forward/reverse?

The fast/slow switch next to where the stock battery goes.

 

[David.85D]

I wasn’t able to pry it out and didn’t want to break it. It does look like a press fit switch. From the back it looks like a conventional double pole double throw switch with 1/4" spade terminals. In one position, the red wire is just going straight through - I guess that is "full speed". I can't see what the other position on the switch does - maybe it ties in a power resistor or some such to drop the voltage a bit. Seems easy enough to jumper the red wires and bypass the switch.

(posted this above but the photo links didn't work - and now its giving me a server error - will try again when this is resolved)

 

[David.85D]

 

[Thebruhh]

Thanks for the pic - I have my switch detached from everything and here's my results when I pull continuity - makes me think I need a new one because surely #1 and #4 should have continuity in one of the speed modes..... very odd.

I'm not the best electrically, so if you could recommend based off #1-#6 which ones need to be hard wired to each other for speed 2 permanent setting I'll do that.

https://imgur.com/a/0tZFTKb

 

[David.85D]

Unless that is a very special, weird switch, I would expect this:
In position "1": 1+2 connected, 4+5 connected (this would close that circuit with the red wire)
In position "2": 2+3 connected, 5+6 connected (this does something else - guessing here - maybe adds a power resistor into the circuit to drop voltage and speed a bit)

The first thing I would try if you have yours out, pull the wires from #2 and #5 and jumper the wires together. This should give you the same operation as position "1". I think. My best guess... Hope you don't release the magic smoke...

 

[Thebruhh]

Unless that is a very special, weird switch, I would expect this:
In position "1": 1+2 connected, 4+5 connected (this would close that circuit with the red wire)
In position "2": 2+3 connected, 5+6 connected (this does something else - guessing here - maybe adds a power resistor into the circuit to drop voltage and speed a bit)

The first thing I would try if you have yours out, pull the wires from #2 and #5 and jumper the wires together. This should give you the same operation as position "1". I think. My best guess... Hope you don't release the magic smoke...

You would be correct on how that switch works. With that speed being adjusted I just wasn't sure what was in the guts of the switch.

The 4,5,6 side the switch was stuck in a middle position where nothing was connecting (as the continuity test concluded), so after finally getting it apart (just sticking a flat head down the side and popping off one part of the red piece then pulling quite easily off) I was able to see what was wrong. The contacts on the middle piece were pushed down (how I have no clue that would have happened). Also looks like maybe some plastic burning from it getting eventually pushed down and unable to make contact.

Here's what it looked like (I lightly tapped the contacts from the other side to push them back in).

I appreciate your input David!!!!!!

https://imgur.com/a/nObkrRa

 

[David.85D]

Awesome! Glad you were able to sort it out.

Can you post a picture of any part numbers, manufacturer, etc shown on the side of the switch?

 

[Thebruhh]

Awesome! Glad you were able to sort it out.

Can you post a picture of any part numbers, manufacturer, etc shown on the side of the switch?

Sure sorry for the delayed response:

CANAL R SERIES
16A 125VAC 1/4 HP
16A 250VAC 1/4 HP

20A 125VAC 3/4HP 250VAC

16(4)A250V~T125/55

https://imgur.com/a/d4XcN4e

 

[Requiem]

Hi, reviving this old thread to see if anyone was able to get variable speed pedal working? Either by hacking the stock switch or replacing it.

 

[Z1968]

Bump! I'd also love to know if anyone figured this out. TIA.

 

[JoeInGA]

Bump! I'd also love to know if anyone figured this out. TIA.

I know this an old thread but it might help somebody else. Direct replacement switch is this one, works great and you a tally get an extra functionality of "off", bonus!! Haha

QTEATAK 2Pcs DPDT 6 Pins 3 Position ON/Off/ON Black Rocker Toggle Switch for Car and Boat AC 20A/125V 16A/250V KCD2 https://a.co/d/dQSSgov

 

[JoeInGA]

Hi, reviving this old thread to see if anyone was able to get variable speed pedal working? Either by hacking the stock switch or replacing it.

Direct drop in - QTEATAK 2Pcs DPDT 6 Pins 3 Position ON/Off/ON Black Rocker Toggle Switch for Car and Boat AC 20A/125V 16A/250V KCD2 https://a.co/d/dQSSgov

 

[JoeInGA]

Sure sorry for the delayed response:

CANAL R SERIES
16A 125VAC 1/4 HP
16A 250VAC 1/4 HP

20A 125VAC 3/4HP 250VAC

16(4)A250V~T125/55

https://imgur.com/a/d4XcN4e

I belive this is who makes the switch R-series - SWITCH - Canal Components Inc.

But I was able to find a direct replacement on Amazon that works perfect, slight difference that it's not two position switch like the origin but rather three, with the middle position being off, neither speed.

QTEATAK 2Pcs DPDT 6 Pins 3 Position ON/Off/ON Black Rocker Toggle Switch for Car and Boat AC 20A/125V 16A/250V KCD2 Amazon.com - Two for $6 one day shipping..... Cannot beat it.