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Battery performance with air conditioner
- Thread starter Golfislifenyc
- Start date
I use camp mode all the time. Even when it's like 100+ outside, it seemed like camp mode only drained like 2% per hour, and that was with me having the climate control set to 65-67 degrees. People have told me they think I live in an igloo, lol.
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I know bjorn did a video, where he was testing the heatpump performance in winter... He charged a M3LR to 100%, and measured how long the heatpump would stay on before the car died. He put weights on the drivers seat, so he could leave the climate on and not have it turn off at 20% SoC... In the video, he showed the M3LR was able to run the heater for 71 hours before the battery died. It was below freezing outside and the climate control was set to 21 degrees C (70 degrees F).
I know you were talking about AC performance, but since this is a heatpump, (AC running in reverse), I imagine performance should be somewhat in the same ballpark if using the AC instead of the heat)
I know you were talking about AC performance, but since this is a heatpump, (AC running in reverse), I imagine performance should be somewhat in the same ballpark if using the AC instead of the heat)
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When parked the Tesla Model Y will use power for the following features:
Sentry mode
Smart Summon (requires Full Self Driving)
Cabin Overheat Protection (COP) (Can be set to AC or HVAC fan only or Off)
Sentry mode will use 6 to 7% of the battery over 24 hours because the Tesla Model Y remains awake. This is also true for Smart Summon.
COP can sap quite a bit of the battery during the day if you set COP to run with AC. The HVAC fan only mode uses about 1/3rd as much power as when the AC is allowed to run. I have observed COP use 750 Wh/hour when active so over a 12 hour day the battery drain can be significant if the Tesla vehicle is not plugged in. (To minimize the need for COP to run the AC or HVC fan park in a covered parking space or garage during the day whenever possible. (Some just leave COP set to Off as the Tesla Model Y vehicle will not be harmed by higher cabin temperatures.)
Camp Mode and Dog Mode are for when you leave the Tesla Model Y parked with pets or passengers inside the vehicle. Camp Mode will not lock the doors when you exit with your phone.
Unless you leave the climate control set to fan only the HVAC will run the AC as needed to cool the passenger cabin and remove excess humidity from the cabin air. You can reduce the heat load on the HVAC system by adding a good ceramic tint to the windshield, side windows and rear glass and adding a sun shade for the glass roof. There are a number of threads on the TMC that discuss the benefits of different tint films and whether tinting the glass roof makes a difference since the glass roof is factory treated to reject UV and IR (heat) rays from the sun. If you are going to be in Florida you will probably want to have the majority or all the Tesla Model Y glass tinted. (Have the tint work done once you are in Florida in the event you ever need to have the tint film repaired or replaced.)
Sentry mode
Smart Summon (requires Full Self Driving)
Cabin Overheat Protection (COP) (Can be set to AC or HVAC fan only or Off)
Sentry mode will use 6 to 7% of the battery over 24 hours because the Tesla Model Y remains awake. This is also true for Smart Summon.
COP can sap quite a bit of the battery during the day if you set COP to run with AC. The HVAC fan only mode uses about 1/3rd as much power as when the AC is allowed to run. I have observed COP use 750 Wh/hour when active so over a 12 hour day the battery drain can be significant if the Tesla vehicle is not plugged in. (To minimize the need for COP to run the AC or HVC fan park in a covered parking space or garage during the day whenever possible. (Some just leave COP set to Off as the Tesla Model Y vehicle will not be harmed by higher cabin temperatures.)
Camp Mode and Dog Mode are for when you leave the Tesla Model Y parked with pets or passengers inside the vehicle. Camp Mode will not lock the doors when you exit with your phone.
Unless you leave the climate control set to fan only the HVAC will run the AC as needed to cool the passenger cabin and remove excess humidity from the cabin air. You can reduce the heat load on the HVAC system by adding a good ceramic tint to the windshield, side windows and rear glass and adding a sun shade for the glass roof. There are a number of threads on the TMC that discuss the benefits of different tint films and whether tinting the glass roof makes a difference since the glass roof is factory treated to reject UV and IR (heat) rays from the sun. If you are going to be in Florida you will probably want to have the majority or all the Tesla Model Y glass tinted. (Have the tint work done once you are in Florida in the event you ever need to have the tint film repaired or replaced.)
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Where we are in the NorCal Sierra Foothills, it gets up to 110° and hotter during our summers. We've only had the car for about 1.5 months. I've seen power usage as high as 390 Wh/mi when it's super hot out there. That would translate to a 192 mile range.
Unlike Florida, California does not allow very dark tint on the windows. If I were you, I'd get window film with the highest rated Total Solar Energy Rejection (TSER) possible. You can keep the front windshield at 70% which would still give you a TSER of 49, if you went with something like Xpel Prime XR. The rest of the car can be darker. Then I'd get a solar screen for the glass roof. I got a two-piece solar screen (so no bulge) and it's made a big difference in the amount of heat we get from the roof.
Since it's been averaging in the mid-80's to low 90's, our average Wh/mi has dropped down to about 284. That would still only be 264 miles of range, but we're constantly running the air con, and we make a lot of short trips in the heat.
Unlike Florida, California does not allow very dark tint on the windows. If I were you, I'd get window film with the highest rated Total Solar Energy Rejection (TSER) possible. You can keep the front windshield at 70% which would still give you a TSER of 49, if you went with something like Xpel Prime XR. The rest of the car can be darker. Then I'd get a solar screen for the glass roof. I got a two-piece solar screen (so no bulge) and it's made a big difference in the amount of heat we get from the roof.
Since it's been averaging in the mid-80's to low 90's, our average Wh/mi has dropped down to about 284. That would still only be 264 miles of range, but we're constantly running the air con, and we make a lot of short trips in the heat.
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Can any of these climate modes be shut off? Which brings me to next question. Does the battery drain as I’m sleeping? At first I was concerned about driving with consistent AC running but now you’re saying the car just burns energy while I’m snoozing
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Yes you can set Sentry Mode to be off at your Home location (recommended if you park in home garage.)
If you purchase Full Self Driving you can leave Smart Summon turned off unless you know you will be using it when you return from an outing.
You can turn off Cabin Overheat Protection. (I leave COP set to HVAC Fan Only most of the time and the energy used is minimal for most of the year.)
The Tesla Model Y will enter sleep mode when parked provided you leave features such as Sentry Mode turned off. (If you leave the Tesla Model Y plugged in the battery charge will be maintained but you will still be using extra energy from the grid.
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Why so worried? It's best to leave car plugged in anyways, so it shouldn't matter anyways. With the exception of sentry mode and maybe overheat protection, it doesn't really drain that much. And overheat protection automatically disables after 12 hours.
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I’m going to be living in a condo building. Not going to have a home with a garage to install a charger
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Then your best bet is to disable Sentry and Cabin Overheat protection. (and don't check up on your car via the app every 15 minutes, as that will wake the car)
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Honestly, I wouldn't even worry about it. Just disable cabin overheat (as that's pointless anyways)... I travel for work quite frequently, so I bought a Condo over there. I don't have the ability to get L2 charging there either, and I left everything but cabin overheat enabled, and it works out fine, at least for me, because there's an EA charger down the street, and I have the CCS1 adapter, so I never worry about it. But even before I got the adapter it wasn't too bad. I found there were a few places that I would eat or have client meetings at, that happened to have J1772 charging (and CCS) as well. The routine wasn't any different compared to when I used to drive an ICE all the time for business trips, except instead of getting gas, it's go charge somewhere... Except charging was more convenient, becuase I found I could do it at places where I was already going to anyways.
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Then, I suggest you not plan on using cabin overheat protection, sentry mode or anything like that.
Also, if you had it in your mind anything at all like "oh this car has a 300 mile range, and I only drive 10 miles a day, so I will just go charge it every 20 days or so and that will still leave me 100 miles to spare for emergencies" or any variation of that thought process, know that it wont work like that at all.
The next question usually is "why?, I thought I was only going to have to charge every XX days or so....". And the VERY short version of that is, you will neither be charging to 100% (unless they now have LFP model Ys) or running it down to zero, and the car will almost never roll of 1:1 miles for a variety of reasons.
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