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Battery
- Thread starter Painkiller89
- Start date
Is it cold at night where you leave your car? If the car has to keep the battery warm at night, it uses a lot of energy. The car also has some vampire drain, have you selected the appropriate settings to reduce vampire drain? Is your 10 miles each way flat or hilly? Do you drive fast, or have a lot of stop and go traffic? Also, is the distance 10 miles as per the car odometer?
I live in chicago and yes its cold. What settings are you suppose to set to fix the vampire drain? 10 miles is flat drive. I do drive fast and use auto pilot. There is some stop and go as well.
279 being the most that you can charge is an indication that the max charge level is set to about 90%. That can be changed, but it is not recommended to go higher.
The mileage available is the mileage when you are using EPA driving habits. I wish that they would use actual expectations instead, but it is what it is.
So your question is that you've only driven 80 miles, but that car indicates that 181 miles have been removed from the indicated driving distance.
First, these are never real numbers. The accuracy of the ability to calculate some of these numbers have a lot to be desired. If you are off 10-20%, life isn't bad.
But you are off 100%. So what causes this? Driving fast is the best way that you can drain the battery. From what I've seen, start at about 55 mph, every 5 mph that you go above this can drop your efficiency 10%. This is caused by the increased drag from the air. Want to maximize efficiency, 45mph is where you want to be.
And really fast starts at traffic lights aren't good for range either.
Another use of the battery is the cooling/heating system. A few weeks ago during Drive Electric Week, as I was showing the car, the door kept getting opened and the AC would kick on. Over about a 4 hour period, I lost about 40 miles of range. In addition, when you first start the car, the AC comes on and tries to condition the batteries. This means that for the first few miles, you average kWHr/mile is really high.
Another use of battery and what is called phantom drain, is the power that the car uses when you aren't driving it. The car will generally go to sleep after it locks, things power down and become quiet. But there are times and situations where the car doesn't go to sleep are keeps getting woken up. Some third party software will keep the car awake. And if you are looking at it in the app, that will also keep it awake.
So, it is best to charge every night. And if you do, keep the max charge to at least 90%. 80% seems to be a more common number. With only a 20 mile commute, 120V charging will be a great option for you, it you don't have 220V at home. And charging at home is by far the best way to experience an EV.
Stay off the lead foot, keep that max speed down, turn on EAP and enjoy the drive.
The mileage available is the mileage when you are using EPA driving habits. I wish that they would use actual expectations instead, but it is what it is.
So your question is that you've only driven 80 miles, but that car indicates that 181 miles have been removed from the indicated driving distance.
First, these are never real numbers. The accuracy of the ability to calculate some of these numbers have a lot to be desired. If you are off 10-20%, life isn't bad.
But you are off 100%. So what causes this? Driving fast is the best way that you can drain the battery. From what I've seen, start at about 55 mph, every 5 mph that you go above this can drop your efficiency 10%. This is caused by the increased drag from the air. Want to maximize efficiency, 45mph is where you want to be.
And really fast starts at traffic lights aren't good for range either.
Another use of the battery is the cooling/heating system. A few weeks ago during Drive Electric Week, as I was showing the car, the door kept getting opened and the AC would kick on. Over about a 4 hour period, I lost about 40 miles of range. In addition, when you first start the car, the AC comes on and tries to condition the batteries. This means that for the first few miles, you average kWHr/mile is really high.
Another use of battery and what is called phantom drain, is the power that the car uses when you aren't driving it. The car will generally go to sleep after it locks, things power down and become quiet. But there are times and situations where the car doesn't go to sleep are keeps getting woken up. Some third party software will keep the car awake. And if you are looking at it in the app, that will also keep it awake.
So, it is best to charge every night. And if you do, keep the max charge to at least 90%. 80% seems to be a more common number. With only a 20 mile commute, 120V charging will be a great option for you, it you don't have 220V at home. And charging at home is by far the best way to experience an EV.
Stay off the lead foot, keep that max speed down, turn on EAP and enjoy the drive.
I live near Green Bay and preheat from AC current in the morning. Even at that with battery warming from battery power only being lunch runs or on the way home with a 7 mile drive each way winter I will see energy use easily double.
In single digits weather with no access connection I got straight out on the highway and energy use spiked over 700wh per mile till the car and battery warmed. This is a 2014 P85.
Outdoor parking with no nightly hookup in Chicago is an aweful idea. You think energy use now is bad just wait till it actually cools off.
In single digits weather with no access connection I got straight out on the highway and energy use spiked over 700wh per mile till the car and battery warmed. This is a 2014 P85.
Outdoor parking with no nightly hookup in Chicago is an aweful idea. You think energy use now is bad just wait till it actually cools off.
@Painkiller89 You are expressing the thing I see a lot of people wondering about when they first come from gas cars to electric. There is something different about electric cars in the cold.
Gas cars are so awfully inefficient that they are constantly busy blowing two thirds of the energy of the gasoline out the tailpipe and radiator as waste heat. So because of that, in the winter, all the heating of you and the inside cabin of the car is “free”. Or more accurately, the gas mileage is bad for the first few minutes, and you get no heat, until the engine warms up, and then you get heat without changing your gas mileage.
Electric motors, though, are amazingly efficient, which means they have very little waste heat. So warming up the inside of the car requires basically like if you were running a little electric space heater in your house. Guess where the electricity for that electric heater comes from? Yeah, it’s the same battery that you’re driving on. So people ask the question like you did about “Where did my miles go?” But you’re discovering that the battery isn’t just providing “miles”. It has to provide heating + miles. So this is going to appear as if the (exaggerated finger quotes) “rated miles” are ticking down much faster than the real distance miles, especially during the first few minutes of your driving. And that is going to show up especially in what you described, with several short drives, where the car sits and gets cold again, so it is almost all the first few minutes situation that has high energy use.
I have a two mile drive to work here in Idaho. So yeah, in the winter, my 2 mile distance will eat up 4 or 5 “rated miles”. But the point is—so what? I’m not hurting for driving distance or range in my local 4 mile commute. And your 20 mile commute isn’t a range problem either. And if you go on a longer drive, where range would be a consideration, the car runs long enough that it does have a chance for the heating energy use to settle down and not be so high, so you don’t get such a bad 2:1 energy suck. So it is kind of a self-solving issue.
Gas cars are so awfully inefficient that they are constantly busy blowing two thirds of the energy of the gasoline out the tailpipe and radiator as waste heat. So because of that, in the winter, all the heating of you and the inside cabin of the car is “free”. Or more accurately, the gas mileage is bad for the first few minutes, and you get no heat, until the engine warms up, and then you get heat without changing your gas mileage.
Electric motors, though, are amazingly efficient, which means they have very little waste heat. So warming up the inside of the car requires basically like if you were running a little electric space heater in your house. Guess where the electricity for that electric heater comes from? Yeah, it’s the same battery that you’re driving on. So people ask the question like you did about “Where did my miles go?” But you’re discovering that the battery isn’t just providing “miles”. It has to provide heating + miles. So this is going to appear as if the (exaggerated finger quotes) “rated miles” are ticking down much faster than the real distance miles, especially during the first few minutes of your driving. And that is going to show up especially in what you described, with several short drives, where the car sits and gets cold again, so it is almost all the first few minutes situation that has high energy use.
I have a two mile drive to work here in Idaho. So yeah, in the winter, my 2 mile distance will eat up 4 or 5 “rated miles”. But the point is—so what? I’m not hurting for driving distance or range in my local 4 mile commute. And your 20 mile commute isn’t a range problem either. And if you go on a longer drive, where range would be a consideration, the car runs long enough that it does have a chance for the heating energy use to settle down and not be so high, so you don’t get such a bad 2:1 energy suck. So it is kind of a self-solving issue.
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