Best way to prop up an X with one wheel off

[Airforcebj]

Like many people new to larger cars, I unfortunately took a turn too sharp and caught my rear wheel. It’s not too bad, but I need to take it to a wheel repair shop. I am trying to avoid leaving the X with them, so I would like to just bring them the wheel. But I am not sure what is the best method of taking the wheel off and leaving the X on three wheels and maybe a jack stand overnight as the wheel is repaired. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this? I purchased two of the jack pads already, but I’m not certain as to how many jack stands I would need and where they should go. It’s the rear driver side wheel. Thanks!

 

[wycolo]

Go to Harbor Freight and get small aluminium jack, 24 inch breaker bar and 21mm +/- '6 point' impact socket. Check that socket properly fits lugs *on both sides* of the car before leaving store. Then stop at sporting goods and get hockey puck. Bottom of car should be marked with jacking positions: only jack there!! If your car is parked on city street then just remove jack after wheel is removed. If wheel hub starts getting too close to pavement such that you won't be able to reinsert the jack then stuff in some firewood or cement block, etc. Car can rest on only 3 wheels without injury.

> mswlogo comments:

Hah!! Based on 6 years of MS 'uni'body abuse I don't worry about such things. Like worrying about "will this 6-point impact socket shred under the massive torque I'm delivering thru 24 inch breaker bar"? No, one can safely make assumptions about certain things; this is how we manage to get thru each day . . . but OP could certainly use one of those jack stands as a placeholder and minimize stress to his MX.
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[mswlogo]

I personally hate jacking up any car from the body on one corner. Unibody cars flex. I don’t like twisting the body.

I would jack the car up from under the suspension. But you can’t do that on some cars, but that’s fairly rare. You also sometimes need a fairly narrow jack. What’s nice is you only have to jack it up like 2 inches (rather than 8 or more). And the car is basically supported as it normally is.

Model 3 is easy breezy. Does need a narrow jack in front and there is a plastic cover over the point I like to jack in the rear so I made a spacer to protect it in the rear. I don’t know how X/S is setup. If you’ve worked on cars you’d know what to do and what you can’t.

I totally agree to avoid bringing you car to a shop unless it’s absolutely necessary. For any car. I’ve seen to many lugs improperly tightened and I always do exactly what you propose doing.

If you prefer use the body jack points just jack up any pair (two jacks are ideal). Both front, or both back or a pair on a side. This avoids twisting the body for a length of time.

Twisting the body can create squeaks or create leaks. And no, normal driving does not stress the body like jacking one corner does. Unless you go off road rock climbing. The jack points are ultimately designed for 4 point lifts, as far as I’m concerned.

 

[mswlogo]

Go to Harbor Freight and get small aluminium jack, 24 inch breaker bar and 21mm +/- '6 point' impact socket. Check that socket properly fits lugs *on both sides* of the car before leaving store. Then stop at sporting goods and get hockey puck. Bottom of car should be marked with jacking positions: only jack there!! If your car is parked on city street then just remove jack after wheel is removed. If wheel hub starts getting too close to pavement such that you won't be able to reinsert the jack then stuff in some firewood or cement block, etc. Car can rest on only 3 wheels without injury.
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Ahh, the Fred Flinstone method.

Perhaps a 16ft 6x6 landscape beam and 4 Friends could just pry the car off the ground. Just leave the beam there while you get the wheel fixed.