What I want is to avoid drilling through my rack to attach the taxicab top light. It also needs to be easily demounted without taking off the top cover. Bit of an ask.
Can leave hardware behind on the rack so long as the light comes off cleanly. Less is more as it's wind resistance I don't need. The light is a bloody sail all by itself.
I had a perfectly good custom fitting and I binned it because "I'll never need that again". I almost never do that! To buy or make another would cost more than I have in kitty right now and I need something right now.
Any cunning ideas? I have a couple but there's always a better one so I thought I would see what's out there.
Thinking caps on?My ideas at the bottom if you got nothing.
Three holes in the base plate doesn't need any more adding I think. Down the middle long ways. Could easily get away with using two.
It currently has three big magnets to stop it sailing off a metal roof. ( That's how I figured I didn't have any use for the vintage style clip in shoe gizmos, never figured on a glass roof )
Can anyone remember the allowable rack load off the top of their heads? Save me looking it up. I only remember it's less than I am used to.
My ideas revolve around a big tub of thermoplastic beads I already have. Thermoplastic is tough as nylon but melts in 60°C to work it.
A pair of top feet and a pair of bottom shoes that slide in.
Mount the bottom shoes with captive bolts that slide into the rail, washers and nyloc nuts. From memory square captive nuts usually slide into the rack rail with the end caps off but otherwise installed, accessories bolt down to the nuts. Doing it the other way so can use nylocs.
Could have them go around the rail and complete with screws and only need one bolt in the rail to stop any sideways wriggle action.
Or could thermal plastically ensure it can't leave as well without more heat but it would get a lot more bush looking.
Screw rotating flap to retain feet sideways.
I think any solution has to rely on the whole bar cross section resisting the toppling effect at 100kph not just bar inset bolts.
My rack has to wait for Tesla to install. After the tail light debacle I am not touching it even though it's a doddle to follow the instructions. So could someone please measure the clear width of bar at the narrow end on MY?
I want to give them my hardware to go on if it has to go on before installation. Ideally the design would not require that.
Can leave hardware behind on the rack so long as the light comes off cleanly. Less is more as it's wind resistance I don't need. The light is a bloody sail all by itself.
I had a perfectly good custom fitting and I binned it because "I'll never need that again". I almost never do that! To buy or make another would cost more than I have in kitty right now and I need something right now.
Any cunning ideas? I have a couple but there's always a better one so I thought I would see what's out there.
Thinking caps on?My ideas at the bottom if you got nothing.
Three holes in the base plate doesn't need any more adding I think. Down the middle long ways. Could easily get away with using two.
It currently has three big magnets to stop it sailing off a metal roof. ( That's how I figured I didn't have any use for the vintage style clip in shoe gizmos, never figured on a glass roof )
Can anyone remember the allowable rack load off the top of their heads? Save me looking it up. I only remember it's less than I am used to.
My ideas revolve around a big tub of thermoplastic beads I already have. Thermoplastic is tough as nylon but melts in 60°C to work it.
A pair of top feet and a pair of bottom shoes that slide in.
Mount the bottom shoes with captive bolts that slide into the rail, washers and nyloc nuts. From memory square captive nuts usually slide into the rack rail with the end caps off but otherwise installed, accessories bolt down to the nuts. Doing it the other way so can use nylocs.
Could have them go around the rail and complete with screws and only need one bolt in the rail to stop any sideways wriggle action.
Or could thermal plastically ensure it can't leave as well without more heat but it would get a lot more bush looking.
Screw rotating flap to retain feet sideways.
I think any solution has to rely on the whole bar cross section resisting the toppling effect at 100kph not just bar inset bolts.
My rack has to wait for Tesla to install. After the tail light debacle I am not touching it even though it's a doddle to follow the instructions. So could someone please measure the clear width of bar at the narrow end on MY?
I want to give them my hardware to go on if it has to go on before installation. Ideally the design would not require that.
