Buying a used Tesla 3 advice...

[CyranoBleu]

Looks like right now the lowest inventory vehicle (which is brand new) in CA (Burbank) is a AWD White with Black/White interior and 18” Aero for $49,990. If you get the fed and state that would reduce it to $46,115.

Again I think a new with HW3 is worth it. The “Christmas” update that they just pushed in the last couple days requires HW3 for the FSD visual sneak peak. Traffic lights and road signs will only show up with HW3. Again, if you buy FSD you WILL get HW3 for free, but on Tesla’s terms and timeline. I don’t think you’ll get it for these previews or partial rollouts. You probably wouldn’t be called in for the upgrade until full self driving really is released, end of next year at “pie in the sky” optimistic but really probably two or more years from now.

Right now the only difference with FSD is navigate on autopilot. The main feature is it will change lanes if a car in front of you is going slower then your cruise control speed is set. It will also try to get you over to the lane that your exit is. This is all NAV on AP does that is different than normal AP. There are reports of the lane change being a little hit or miss still, either not able to complete the lane change because of traffic or whatever. Obviously that’s constantly getting better, but it’s certainly not *perfect* right now.

The other FSD feature right now is Smart Summon. The car “will” come to you in a parking lot or back out of your garage or something. Now realistically the car stops and pauses every time it senses a person or car near it (within maybe 3 feet) and will wait for the object to move past before going again. In an empty parking lot it’s a fun party trick and works decent (from videos and reviews I’ve seen). In a busy parking lot (think Walmart or Costco), I have no idea how it would work... I don’t think we’ve seen many YouTube videos showing a real world situation. At one point the car also would pull up to you head on at the curb rather then with the passenger side door parallel to the curb, like a normal human being. Maybe this got fixed with updated maps, but again this isn’t *perfect*, in fact far from it.

Are those two features worth $7,000 for you?

Obviously more features will come, but you can buy FSD at any time and if history is anything to go on, Elon will probably tweet warning of a price increase to encourage people to buy.

I think that’s why many of us here are suggesting not to worry about FSD right now. If budget isn’t a worry, go for it, but otherwise spend that money somewhere else right now, either stretching into an AWD or getting paint protection film applied to keep the car looking amazing.

Very helpful.

So, even though the 2017 is LR and has FSD built-in at $43,400, the 2020 AWD at $49,990 makes more sense if you can stretch the budget.

For me, I really want to stay as close to $40,000 as possible, which I originally put the deposit down for the SR+ will no FSD. So, I'm really looking at an $8,400 difference to step up to the 2020 LR. I can't absorb that big of a jump. That's why I was looking at the 2017 with all the specs (premium interior, LR, FSD, sports wheels) while only paying $1,500 more than the SR+.

But, actually:

#1. 2019/20 SR+ = $37,715 (after tax credit and rebate)
#2. 2019/20 LR = $46,115 (after tax credit and rebate)
#3. 2017 LR RWD = $43,300 (FSD included, a $7,000 value right now with hopeful possibility of increasing in value)

So, the 2017 actually costs $5,585 more than the SR+. But, it has greater range and FSD.
Assuming that I can't afford to step up to the 2019/20 LR, then is it better to get #1 or #3?

Again, I note that mileage of the 2017 is about $5,000 decrease in value. However, that depreciation should slow. The depreciation of the brand new vehicle will be high as soon as I pull it off the lot and for the first couple years. In the long run with long-time ownership (5-7 yrs+), that depreciation difference won't be so great or matter so much. And, by then, then increased value of FSD will have kicked in. And, the longer range of the 2017 will hold more value than the SR+.

Still a tough decision for me. Any other thoughts PLEASE!

p.s. I should mention that this is my first Tesla, so I don't want to over-splurge. I want to have it, see how I like living with it, and then maybe upgrade in 3-5 years. I expect to enjoy the experience, but I can't be sure.

 

[OCR1]

If you ask ten Tesla owners their opinion on FSD you will get ten different responses. Only you can determine how useful it will be to you and how much value you place on it. If you drive on the freeways a lot it is clearly more useful than on surface streets, where it’s not approved for use yet.

There is no way I would buy a 2017 Model 3. There were too many production problems back then and I just would not be comfortable with it. I would much rather have a brand new car with a 4 year warranty than a 2017 with FSD if I had to choose one over the other. But I don’t drive on the freeways much so my opinion is clearly biased.

The SR+ may be fine if you can live with the range limitations and lesser interior. Again it just depends how important those things are to you.

 

[acarney]

Very helpful.

So, even though the 2017 is LR and has FSD built-in at $43,400, the 2020 AWD at $49,990 makes more sense if you can stretch the budget.

For me, I really want to stay as close to $40,000 as possible, which I originally put the deposit down for the SR+ will no FSD. So, I'm really looking at an $8,400 difference to step up to the 2020 LR. I can't absorb that big of a jump. That's why I was looking at the 2017 with all the specs (premium interior, LR, FSD, sports wheels) while only paying $1,500 more than the SR+.

But, actually:

#1. 2019/20 SR+ = $37,715 (after tax credit and rebate)
#2. 2019/20 LR = $46,115 (after tax credit and rebate)
#3. 2017 LR RWD = $43,300 (FSD included, a $7,000 value right now with hopeful possibility of increasing in value)

So, the 2017 actually costs $5,585 more than the SR+. But, it has greater range and FSD.
Assuming that I can't afford to step up to the 2019/20 LR, then is it better to get #1 or #3?

Again, I note that mileage of the 2017 is about $5,000 decrease in value. However, that depreciation should slow. The depreciation of the brand new vehicle will be high as soon as I pull it off the lot and for the first couple years. In the long run with long-time ownership (5-7 yrs+), that depreciation difference won't be so great or matter so much. And, by then, then increased value of FSD will have kicked in. And, the longer range of the 2017 will hold more value than the SR+.

Still a tough decision for me. Any other thoughts PLEASE!

p.s. I should mention that this is my first Tesla, so I don't want to over-splurge. I want to have it, see how I like living with it, and then maybe upgrade in 3-5 years. I expect to enjoy the experience, but I can't be sure.

I would be surprised if you didn’t enjoy the experience. Don’t be oversold on autopilot and stuff. It works well but it’s not perfect and it’s not what Elon sells it as. It’s probably the best on the road compared to others, but just don’t be disappointed if there are some phantom braking issues (the car starts to apply the brakes when there is nothing in front of you; could be a shadow or overpass or something.) It’s rare, but the first time it happens it’ll really lower your confidence. If you go into it that this is a driver aid and not perfect, your expectations will be far more in line with how well it works. I love AP and it works really well on interstate driving, but understand you’ll have some times where you go to yourself “man, there is no way we’re having full self driving in the next year, this has a long way to go!”

I think why we might caution against the 2017 is because it’s one of the first Model 3’s off the line. The VIN is less than 10,000. Even if the sales guys say there are no differences between a 2017 car and a 2020 car, that’s not realistic. The labor is more skilled at car 400,000 compared to car 10,000. Some slight parts might be changed a little bit between VIN 10k and 400k. Maybe the torque was changed on something, maybe something was lubricated a little more, maybe extra adhesive was used. Small changes that could improve reliability down the road but isn’t an actual part or assembly redesign.

One would hope any issues from the first batch off the line would have been found in those first 30k miles and corrected while under warranty. But what if they haven’t? Assuming Tesla doesn’t extend the warranty for you (I wouldn’t bet on it) you have like 16 months or something to find/experience any issues and get them fixed. A 2020 has 2+ years of learning and improvements PLUS four years of warranty. The Model 3 should be a more simple car that has all of Tesla’s previous learning rolled into it, but Tesla is still a very young company and they’ve built a very small amount of Model 3’s compared to what some of the other guys might do in their first couple years. (~600k Model 3’s when Honda or Toyota might hit a million or two in those first two to three years)

The 2017 might be perfect in the long run. But I personally went after an SR+ that was brand new compared to buying a LR RWD with 10 to 15k miles because it was under VIN 20,000 or so. I would have loved the extra range or premium audio system. But I got a car with 6 miles on it and four years warranty and HW3 and absolutely love it. Everyone always wants more range and if you can squeeze out a AWD when factoring in rebates do it, but if an SR+ will handle your demands I think you’ll be happy.

(Assume maybe 70% of rated range in bad conditions, cold weather freeway speed and think about only running the battery down to 10% at the most. That means 175 miles (70% of that rated 250) and then about 158 miles (only using 90% of that new range). If you can handle 158 miles range at freeway speeds between superchargers than the SR+ should suit you. Obviously you may get better efficiency and get closer to that rated range, and 35mph city driving is very easy to get close to that rated range unless you use the heat a lot, but think about a worst case kind of situation.)

 

[OCR1]

My understanding of this is that I did not order the car before 7/18 but the original owner did. When the car goes back to Tesla and is resold as used, that premium connectivity is reset. If the original owner sold it to me directly, then I would be able to keep the original owners premium connectivity for life.

I believe this was a little different for some early S and X models that had benefits like free supercharging for life that was linked to the CAR vs The owner. I think the M3 is linked to the owner

Yes, you are correct. Because the seller sold the car to Tesla rather than you directly they removed the lifetime connectivity benefit. Had you purchased the car directly from the private seller you would have retained the benefit.

 

[CyranoBleu]

I would be surprised if you didn’t enjoy the experience. Don’t be oversold on autopilot and stuff. It works well but it’s not perfect and it’s not what Elon sells it as. It’s probably the best on the road compared to others, but just don’t be disappointed if there are some phantom braking issues (the car starts to apply the brakes when there is nothing in front of you; could be a shadow or overpass or something.) It’s rare, but the first time it happens it’ll really lower your confidence. If you go into it that this is a driver aid and not perfect, your expectations will be far more in line with how well it works. I love AP and it works really well on interstate driving, but understand you’ll have some times where you go to yourself “man, there is no way we’re having full self driving in the next year, this has a long way to go!”

I think why we might caution against the 2017 is because it’s one of the first Model 3’s off the line. The VIN is less than 10,000. Even if the sales guys say there are no differences between a 2017 car and a 2020 car, that’s not realistic. The labor is more skilled at car 400,000 compared to car 10,000. Some slight parts might be changed a little bit between VIN 10k and 400k. Maybe the torque was changed on something, maybe something was lubricated a little more, maybe extra adhesive was used. Small changes that could improve reliability down the road but isn’t an actual part or assembly redesign.

One would hope any issues from the first batch off the line would have been found in those first 30k miles and corrected while under warranty. But what if they haven’t? Assuming Tesla doesn’t extend the warranty for you (I wouldn’t bet on it) you have like 16 months or something to find/experience any issues and get them fixed. A 2020 has 2+ years of learning and improvements PLUS four years of warranty. The Model 3 should be a more simple car that has all of Tesla’s previous learning rolled into it, but Tesla is still a very young company and they’ve built a very small amount of Model 3’s compared to what some of the other guys might do in their first couple years. (~600k Model 3’s when Honda or Toyota might hit a million or two in those first two to three years)

The 2017 might be perfect in the long run. But I personally went after an SR+ that was brand new compared to buying a LR RWD with 10 to 15k miles because it was under VIN 20,000 or so. I would have loved the extra range or premium audio system. But I got a car with 6 miles on it and four years warranty and HW3 and absolutely love it. Everyone always wants more range and if you can squeeze out a AWD when factoring in rebates do it, but if an SR+ will handle your demands I think you’ll be happy.

(Assume maybe 70% of rated range in bad conditions, cold weather freeway speed and think about only running the battery down to 10% at the most. That means 175 miles (70% of that rated 250) and then about 158 miles (only using 90% of that new range). If you can handle 158 miles range at freeway speeds between superchargers than the SR+ should suit you. Obviously you may get better efficiency and get closer to that rated range, and 35mph city driving is very easy to get close to that rated range unless you use the heat a lot, but think about a worst case kind of situation.)

True... I think I'll enjoy the experience. I also am starting to agree on the FSD... seems a long way away from having any real value over AP. I just hope the price doesn't keep going up. Would suck to miss out on it already added to the 2017... it's like getting it at a discount... only to have to pay even more than 7k for it in 2-3 years when it's more useful.

The warranty thing is key. If Tesla would extend the 2017's warranty, this would be a no-brainer for me. I've requested a call about the 2017 to see what has been done to it before Tesla took it back from the previous owner. If it has been treated well and issues have been ironed out, it really might be mechanically fine for much more than the next 16k miles. If I could feel confident that the 2017 would be reasonably free on "low VIN mechanical issues, I would go for it. At that point, the warranty is not a big concern. The lack of the little tweaks may show up after that 16k/2021, but I could likely stomach those and may be looking to trade up anyway in a few years.

The 158 miles on the SR+ after keeping it above 10% is rather low. But, it will suffice for most of what I need. I have a Prius for longer drives. My concern is the resale value in 3-5 yrs or so when that already low range battery degrades by 20% or so. The 2019/20 VIN will still have some value in 5 years over the 2017, but not a whole lot.

I believe HW3 will be provided for free to FSD-capable vehicles like the 2017. It will just be on Tesla's schedule. I would be willing to wait for the HW3. The FSD software can't take advantage of it fully yet anyway.

Overall, I am in toss up land! I can only make a good choice once I speak with someone at Tesla about the specific 2017. It's new VIN and longer warranty vs top specs and more range, If I get the feeling I'll save more money in repairs over 3-5 years with the 2019/20 than the financial benefit I get from the top specs on the 2017, then I'd have to go with the 2019/20. If not, then I don't think the value of a new VIN is worth much...and the warranty won't be worth much either if I don't have to repair much. So, the warranty could be worthless to me besides peace of mind. Since I will only do a max of about 5k miles/year in the car (probably less) mostly on surface streets, it seems that the chances of mechanical issues would be kinda low. Job could change of course and require an actual commute, but currently I do not drive to work. Car will mostly sit in the garage. If I were driving it a lot, I would definitely go with the longer warranty option.

Hard choice given my circumstanes. I'm 50/50 right now. Need to see the 2017 and speak with someone to really decide. Ahhh! lol

 

[acarney]

A great thing about a Tesla is they’ve really nailed their battery design. Long term results on the S/X seem to show about a 10% or less degradation over 100k miles. It appears somewhere between 50k and 70k it starts to drop a bit and then level off. It’s not nearly as bad as some of the horror stories from the Leaf and stuff like that. Now ten percent is still very real and will factor into your life, but thankfully they’ve really spent a lot of time and energy in getting their batteries as good as possible. Supposedly Model 3 is designed with an even more robust battery system and Musk has continuously mentioned it should last for 300k to 500k miles. (Now he hasn’t been specific if that’s at currently expected degradation amounts [i.e. 10%] or if that’s sort of industry standard of 70% or 80% of battery life remaining.)

My range estimate was also to paint a realistic ability for you on if that car would work for you in all situations. The superchargers network is amazing and constantly gets better, so I don’t feel like the SR+ can’t be a primary car, I just don’t want you to get into something that wouldn’t fit you well. If you hit the mountains a lot to ski or visit family in freezing winter months in Colorado or something then you might need to think more on that lower end. Mostly around SoCal you’ll get fantastic range. You’ll probably get close to rates around town and off the freeway and in good weather probably close to 190 miles or so at 70mph on the freeway, maybe a little more if you’re down near 55mph. I just want you to be in the mind set for the extremes so you don’t spend a bunch on a car and then realize you’re yearly winter road trip has to be done in an older car you already have or something. Manage expectations and have a realistic idea of what the machine can do and you’re way more likely to absolutely love the car once you get it!

Edit: This recent sneak peak update also gives a good idea of some of the HW3 power. It’s amazing how some traffic lights, stop signs, road arrows, and the like can really fill in the picture. What’s shown on the screen now feels a lot closer to the real world... but again I’ve already noticed a few things that make me pause. The way some new bike lanes have been painted around me makes the car think there is an adjacent lane and it apparently doesn’t recognize the bike only sign or road marking. It does recognize crosswalks or pedestrian crossing signs yet... I wonder how it’ll handle that. Currently it will see people, but at least doesn’t show them on the screen until they’re about 3 car lengths or closer. Even at 35mph if a car didn’t start to slow down until it was 50 feet or so away as a pedestrian I would be wildly freaked out. FSD is going to need to reliably see pedestrians 100+ feet out and give some confidence that it’s slowing down for them. Etc.

 

[CyranoBleu]

If you ask ten Tesla owners their opinion on FSD you will get ten different responses. Only you can determine how useful it will be to you and how much value you place on it. If you drive on the freeways a lot it is clearly more useful than on surface streets, where it’s not approved for use yet.

There is no way I would buy a 2017 Model 3. There were too many production problems back then and I just would not be comfortable with it. I would much rather have a brand new car with a 4 year warranty than a 2017 with FSD if I had to choose one over the other. But I don’t drive on the freeways much so my opinion is clearly biased.

The SR+ may be fine if you can live with the range limitations and lesser interior. Again it just depends how important those things are to you.

I think the FSD would hold a bit more value for me because of family with a disability. Thus, the summon feature and NOA could come in handy in more situations than a totally able-bodied person/family. The range limitation on the SR+ bother me, but it doesn't become a huge issue in my mind until the battery begins to degrade. There's not much room to accept degradation due to the already low range (although clearly better range than competitors).

I was not aware of the production problems back then. If those have been fixed by the previous owner, I would not be troubled by them. Again, the warranty doesn't mean much to me if the car will not be needing major repairs after 16,000mi/2021. SO, I need to speak with Tesla about the vehicle and its condition plus examine what I can.

Could you tell me more about those early VIN production issues? Thanks!

 

[CyranoBleu]

A great thing about a Tesla is they’ve really nailed their battery design. Long term results on the S/X seem to show about a 10% or less degradation over 100k miles. It appears somewhere between 50k and 70k it starts to drop a bit and then level off. It’s not nearly as bad as some of the horror stories from the Leaf and stuff like that. Now ten percent is still very real and will factor into your life, but thankfully they’ve really spent a lot of time and energy in getting their batteries as good as possible. Supposedly Model 3 is designed with an even more robust battery system and Musk has continuously mentioned it should last for 300k to 500k miles. (Now he hasn’t been specific if that’s at currently expected degradation amounts [i.e. 10%] or if that’s sort of industry standard of 70% or 80% of battery life remaining.)

My range estimate was also to paint a realistic ability for you on if that car would work for you in all situations. The superchargers network is amazing and constantly gets better, so I don’t feel like the SR+ can’t be a primary car, I just don’t want you to get into something that wouldn’t fit you well. If you hit the mountains a lot to ski or visit family in freezing winter months in Colorado or something then you might need to think more on that lower end. Mostly around SoCal you’ll get fantastic range. You’ll probably get close to rates around town and off the freeway and in good weather probably close to 190 miles or so at 70mph on the freeway, maybe a little more if you’re down near 55mph. I just want you to be in the mind set for the extremes so you don’t spend a bunch on a car and then realize you’re yearly winter road trip has to be done in an older car you already have or something. Manage expectations and have a realistic idea of what the machine can do and you’re way more likely to absolutely love the car once you get it!

Edit: This recent sneak peak update also gives a good idea of some of the HW3 power. It’s amazing how some traffic lights, stop signs, road arrows, and the like can really fill in the picture. What’s shown on the screen now feels a lot closer to the real world... but again I’ve already noticed a few things that make me pause. The way some new bike lanes have been painted around me makes the car think there is an adjacent lane and it apparently doesn’t recognize the bike only sign or road marking. It does recognize crosswalks or pedestrian crossing signs yet... I wonder how it’ll handle that. Currently it will see people, but at least doesn’t show them on the screen until they’re about 3 car lengths or closer. Even at 35mph if a car didn’t start to slow down until it was 50 feet or so away as a pedestrian I would be wildly freaked out. FSD is going to need to reliably see pedestrians 100+ feet out and give some confidence that it’s slowing down for them. Etc.

Very interesting experience with HW#. I understand the concerns you expressed...I could see how that would cause pause. I'm sure Tesla will continuously improve upon these things and more... which makes me worry about increasing price of FSD!

I appreciate the conservative estimate on the battery range. It's much better to look at it conservatively. I believe the SR+ would take care of 95+% of my needs with no threat of running out of charge. I guess I'm more concerns about the resale value later vs the LR.

Would be nice to have dual motors!

 

[CyranoBleu]

I have an August 2018 LR RWD Model3 with HW2.5 . I bought FSD at initial purchase, and I am constantly using two features which are automated parallel parking and autopilot lane changes on highways. I use the turn signal and it changes lanes immediately. Seems to me that autopilot is much worse without that feature, especially on long highway trips. My understanding is that autopark and autopilot lane changes are not available if you don't have FSD. There are other FSD features like "navigate on autopilot" and summon that will eventually be interesting, but right now they're not reliable often enough, so I never use them. My advice is to get a used Model3 with long range battery and make sure it includes FSD and includes a decent warranty, purchased directly from Tesla, any year except 2017.

Thanks for sharing!

You say any year but 2017. Why?

The only used LR M3 I found with FSD was the 2017 at $43,300. I've been keeping my eye on the inventory each day, but nothing has been coming up.

Although I've made a deposit on a brand new SR+ and he 201 LR RWD + FSD and premium wheel, I'm starting to wonder if I should just wait to see what opportunities arise in 2020... if 2017 is such a concern.

 

[Sunshine Speed]

My feeling is that 2017 Model 3s are good, but 2018s are more likely to have solid build quality, less panel gaps, and better rear seats and suspension. I hear 2020 has sound dampening and a quieter cabin. Any Model 3 with FSD will be amazing, but shoot for mid-2018 or later in my opinion if you can.

 

[acarney]

@CyranoBleu are you feeling really lucky? You could go buy VIN #8 (a 2017 Long Range Rear Wheel Drive Model 3) with FSD and only ~4500 miles of the car you found and just pay $44k 2017 Model 3 | Tesla

Realistically I would only touch that guy if you just wanted to have the lowest VIN you can find possible. Maybe a collectors car in 10 or 15 years?

More serious though, you might be more interested in a 2018 Long Range AWD with half the miles (16k) for $42.8k. It doesn't have FSD so you would miss out on that, but you would gain the extra performance of the AWD (speed and stability in bad conditions) and you move up to VIN ~71,000. That might greatly push you past the initial growing pains they had with manufacturing the cars. It's a little cheaper than your car too, but would require a road trip home from the East coast... of it would be ~$800 more then the 2017 you found and shipped to your local Tesla sales center... 2018 Model 3 | Tesla

 

[CyranoBleu]

@CyranoBleu are you feeling really lucky? You could go buy VIN #8 (a 2017 Long Range Rear Wheel Drive Model 3) with FSD and only ~4500 miles of the car you found and just pay $44k 2017 Model 3 | Tesla

Realistically I would only touch that guy if you just wanted to have the lowest VIN you can find possible. Maybe a collectors car in 10 or 15 years?

More serious though, you might be more interested in a 2018 Long Range AWD with half the miles (16k) for $42.8k. It doesn't have FSD so you would miss out on that, but you would gain the extra performance of the AWD (speed and stability in bad conditions) and you move up to VIN ~71,000. That might greatly push you past the initial growing pains they had with manufacturing the cars. It's a little cheaper than your car too, but would require a road trip home from the East coast... of it would be ~$800 more then the 2017 you found and shipped to your local Tesla sales center... 2018 Model 3 | Tesla

haha! That's not a bad deal at all!
Do you happen to know where that low VIN 2017 is located? I'm not keen to drive cross-country, so I hope it is in LA or maybe u in Fremont.

The 2018 sounds great, but that cross-country drive is not feasible.

I pick up my 2020 SR+ tomorrow!! I may just settle on that one. You have me leaning towards a new car and HW3 with all your advice!

Thx

 

[acarney]

haha! That's not a bad deal at all!
Do you happen to know where that low VIN 2017 is located? I'm not keen to drive cross-country, so I hope it is in LA or maybe u in Fremont.

The 2018 sounds great, but that cross-country drive is not feasible.

I pick up my 2020 SR+ tomorrow!! I may just settle on that one. You have me leaning towards a new car and HW3 with all your advice!

Thx

Oh!! I think you’ll love your new car! Exciting!

 

[CyranoBleu]

Oh!! I think you’ll love your new car! Exciting!

I'm sure! I'm not 100% sold on it over my 2017, but I'll take delivery tomorrow nonetheless and give it a fair shake.

The super early VIN 2017 sounds like a good collector's car! But, I am worried about the manufacture on that one.

If I'm loving the 2020, I may not go look at my 2017. I'll report back tomorrow!

 

[Jeff Davlt]

Im getting a used LR RWD with paint and base wheels 4k miles for $42 from Teslas Used Inventory. It was either that or get an SR+.

This is a solid price. I’d be happy with this if I could find the same deal. I’m willing to go used to get a LR.

 

[robl45]

I am looking for used model 3 performance. Any tips for me? Wanted fsd but seems enhanced Auto pilot would work for now. I am pretty much seeing cars about 55k with enhanced autopilot and no fsd. This seems a little high. Any advice for pricing and best place to look for one? I'm in South Florida.

 

[DionG]

Where do you see used model 3’s I’ve looked at Tesla’s site for months put in different zip codes but it’s never showed any used model 3s. I’ve last minute checked the dfw car sites but pretty much all the models seemed to be priced at 5k higher than buying that model new. I wouldn’t buy used unless it was a crazy good discount. But I thought I’d check. Kinda disappointed with people/ car places that sell a used vehicle for more than a brand new one. I get the vehicles cost them more than , but who’d pay more for a used car??? Seems insane....

 

[OCR1]

Where do you see used model 3’s I’ve looked at Tesla’s site for months put in different zip codes but it’s never showed any used model 3s. I’ve last minute checked the dfw car sites but pretty much all the models seemed to be priced at 5k higher than buying that model new. I wouldn’t buy used unless it was a crazy good discount. But I thought I’d check. Kinda disappointed with people/ car places that sell a used vehicle for more than a brand new one. I get the vehicles cost them more than , but who’d pay more for a used car??? Seems insane....

Model 3’s are in very short supply right now. There is one new Model 3 for sale in the entire United States and zero used Model 3’s available from Tesla. There are a number of used Model 3’s listed in autotrader.com. However, given the overall shortage of vehicles currently available, nobody is in a big hurry to discount their used vehicles. So your best bet is to place an order for a new one and wait for Tesla to build it for you.

 

[ElectricIAC]

Model 3’s are in very short supply right now. There is one new Model 3 for sale in the entire United States and zero used Model 3’s available from Tesla. There are a number of used Model 3’s listed in autotrader.com. However, given the overall shortage of vehicles currently available, nobody is in a big hurry to discount their used vehicles. So your best bet is to place an order for a new one and wait for Tesla to build it for you.

I’ve got an MR with EAP I’d be willing to part with for a price...

But yeah: I’d expect new and used inventory to remain fairly scarce and ordered deliveries to remain slow as usual. The problem with most of the used car sites is that you don’t really know what you’re getting (Non-AP, AP, EAP, FSD)