Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Can you guys see if this Nema 14-50 install looks correct?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Can some see if this looks good? I had someone come and install a nema 14-50 for juice box 40. They installed a new panel to have more space
 

Attachments

  • 0BEF5C64-E628-499A-8008-9ECB92CCA6F3.jpeg
    0BEF5C64-E628-499A-8008-9ECB92CCA6F3.jpeg
    600.9 KB · Views: 309
  • E31E6557-D98D-43C0-91B7-89F75C541C29.jpeg
    E31E6557-D98D-43C0-91B7-89F75C541C29.jpeg
    443.7 KB · Views: 220
  • 669B9750-4140-451C-B446-5F916FAFDCB0.jpeg
    669B9750-4140-451C-B446-5F916FAFDCB0.jpeg
    850.5 KB · Views: 221
Can some see if this looks good? I had someone come and install a nema 14-50 for juice box 40. They installed a new panel to have more space

Um, I'd need a larger picture encompassing all your panels to know what I'm looking at. It looks like you have two meters?

It looks like one meter's output goes into this new "panel" that contains a 100A breaker that presumably services another panel somewhere?? And then you have a 50A breaker there too presumably for the 14-50 receptacle. What is your meter service? 150A? 100A? Is that mini-panel with these two breakers rated for 150A?

I'll also echo the question about grounding.
 
Um, I'd need a larger picture encompassing all your panels to know what I'm looking at. It looks like you have two meters?

It looks like one meter's output goes into this new "panel" that contains a 100A breaker that presumably services another panel somewhere?? And then you have a 50A breaker there too presumably for the 14-50 receptacle. What is your meter service? 150A? 100A? Is that mini-panel with these two breakers rated for 150A?

I'll also echo the question about grounding.
So it’s two apartment house with the original following configuration. The house main switch (one in the middle) is 150A and a 100A is each panel to the left and right of that for each apartment
DC3FA8C5-E644-4A1B-B6FB-BE205EAA7BEE.jpeg

He ended up replacing existing sub panel in floor 2 with 4 circuit sub panels. Install dedicated 50 amp circuits with NEMA 50 receptacles. The 100A was originally there and the 50A was the addition of the new panel

B23725F9-630D-46BF-A200-FAA1F9FCC69B.jpeg
 
Last edited:
So it’s two apartment house with the original following configuration. The house main switch (one in the middle) is 150A and a 100A is each panel to the left and right of that for each apartment
View attachment 913622
He ended up replacing existing sub panel in floor 2 with 4 circuit sub panels. Install dedicated 50 amp circuits with NEMA 50 receptacles. The 100A was originally there and the 50A was the addition of the new panel

View attachment 913623
Based on what I can see in these pictures, I don’t see anything wrong. But there could be things not done right that I can’t see. Does the charger work?
 
  • Like
Reactions: coolmike673 and KJD
Based on what I can see in these pictures, I don’t see anything wrong. But there could be things not done right that I can’t see. Does the charger work?
Yup the charger works and no issues. I had them file for a permit, so someone from the town will eventually come and check it out . What about grounding, what’s your thoughts on that?

Btw thanks a lot for your feedback! First time electric car buyer and just making sure i don’t fry my house by bad installations lol
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: KJD
Yup the charger works and no issues. I had them file for a permit, so someone from the town will eventually come and check it out . What about grounding, what’s your thoughts on that?

Btw thanks a lot for your feedback! First time electric car buyer and just making sure i don’t fry my house by bad installations lol
Provided the main box is grounded, the sub panel will be grounded through the conduit. The MC cable going to your 14-50 has a ground wire in it which should be connected to the sub panel box with a grounding lug and screw.
 
Yup the charger works and no issues. I had them file for a permit, so someone from the town will eventually come and check it out . What about grounding, what’s your thoughts on that?

Btw thanks a lot for your feedback! First time electric car buyer and just making sure i don’t fry my house by bad installations lol
I'm guessing that this an old enough install that the conduit is being used as the ground. The neutral in the sub panel is isolated from the box so that's good. I'm guessing the ground wire from the 14-50 is attached to box and not just behind although the conduit also appears to be continuous between the outlet and the sub panel.
 
Yes the thing that threw some of us for a loop is that current electrical code doesn’t allow MC cable to act as a ground. But older codes did, which is probably why this was built the way it is. So, yes, you should be good, especially with an inspection. Enjoy your EV!
 
  • Like
Reactions: coolmike673
Which pull cable are you referring to?
In the upper right of the main incoming breaker panel(with the 150A breaker), there's a hole drilled in the faceplate of the panel which looks particularly not-original. The paint is gone all around the hole as well. Generally making your own holes in panels is a significant problem. Making a hole and then sticking a bare wire into it is downright scary.

I'll echo the concern that the new panel that was installed might not have been rated for 150A. I see they've used several adapters to make the holes for wires bigger(!) for the larger gauge wire. I might not be so concerned if it were for the neutral only, but they've done it for the incoming power wires. In any case, the faceplate for the new panel should have a maximum current indicated.
 
In the upper right of the main incoming breaker panel(with the 150A breaker), there's a hole drilled in the faceplate of the panel which looks particularly not-original. The paint is gone all around the hole as well. Generally making your own holes in panels is a significant problem. Making a hole and then sticking a bare wire into it is downright scary.

I'll echo the concern that the new panel that was installed might not have been rated for 150A. I see they've used several adapters to make the holes for wires bigger(!) for the larger gauge wire. I might not be so concerned if it were for the neutral only, but they've done it for the incoming power wires. In any case, the faceplate for the new panel should have a maximum current indicated.
That looks like an inspection seal. The idea is that you’re not allowed to open that box without the city inspector resealing it.
 
That looks like an inspection seal. The idea is that you’re not allowed to open that box without the city inspector resealing it.
You are right, I'm sure that's what it is! I've never seen one on an interior panel, but since this is likely unfused clear out to the pole I can imagine they'd want to know if someone were screwing around in there. I also see there's one on the lower left of that panel that is a much more clearly a seal.

I'm also a little surprised that the holes were apparently made with a 38 caliber round or 30d nail and a sledgehammer.
 
  • Funny
Reactions: Cosmacelf
You are right, I'm sure that's what it is! I've never seen one on an interior panel, but since this is likely unfused clear out to the pole I can imagine they'd want to know if someone were screwing around in there. I also see there's one on the lower left of that panel that is a much more clearly a seal.

I'm also a little surprised that the holes were apparently made with a 38 caliber round or 30d nail and a sledgehammer.
It's because being upstream of the meters, that box would allow access to unmetered electricity. They put a seal there just like the seal tag on the meter base, so they know if someone has tampered with the metering and potentially attempted to steal power.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cosmacelf
It's because being upstream of the meters, that box would allow access to unmetered electricity. They put a seal there just like the seal tag on the meter base, so they know if someone has tampered with the metering and potentially attempted to steal power.
I thought of that, but didn't look closely at the meters to see if they had a similar seal. I know my meter box has no seal at all so I could dive in there with some 0 gauge and dramatically reduce my electric bill :)
 
I thought of that, but didn't look closely at the meters to see if they had a similar seal. I know my meter box has no seal at all so I could dive in there with some 0 gauge and dramatically reduce my electric bill :)
Interesting! It's possible it fell off if the meter is pretty old, or your power company just doesn't do it. Usually they're on the meter base door, or there's a metal ring that goes around the meter itself to prevent it from being removed from the meter base jaws.

These are what I'm talking about:

DC3FA8C5-E644-4A1B-B6FB-BE205EAA7BEE.jpeg
 
Interesting! It's possible it fell off if the meter is pretty old, or your power company just doesn't do it. Usually they're on the meter base door, or there's a metal ring that goes around the meter itself to prevent it from being removed from the meter base jaws.
Ya, I'm familiar with the seals, I don't think I've had one on there for most/all of my 25 years in this house. Maybe they gave up on them now that you can get them for next to nothing on Amazon.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AC Traction
With the HPWC you had to have the screws torqued to a specific setting. I’m unsure if that applies to the plug, but worth asking the installer to make sure it was done. That can cause some serious heat problems if not torqued enough.