Car had to be jumped to open door

[Nate M]

Its very likely the fuses in the DCDC converter. The fuses go bad and it taxes the battery and eventually the AC compressor will "die" and then the heat. The trifecta of issues usually points to the DCDC converter. I replaced my fuses last weekened after dealing with a similar issue. 02/13 build with an original battery after 150k miles (be amazed fellow TMC folks!). Search around the forum its not a bad self repair on the older cars. They will want to replace the whole thing for 2500 bucks, you can get the fuses for like 150 and a few hours be done.

I'll give this a whirl as well, thanks for the idea

 

[Watts_Up]

Its very likely the fuses in the DCDC converter.
The fuses go bad and it taxes the battery and eventually the AC compressor will "die" and then the heat.
The trifecta of issues usually points to the DCDC converter.
I replaced my fuses last weekened after dealing with a similar issue.
02/13 build with an original battery after 150k miles (be amazed fellow TMC folks!).
Search around the forum its not a bad self repair on the older cars.
They will want to replace the whole thing for 2500 bucks,
you can get the fuses for like 150 and a few hours be done.

Tesla doesn't display the 12 V battery voltage, unlike several other EVs.

I would recommend adding a 12 V Auxiliary plug with a voltmeter, or use Scan My Tesla to check the battery voltage.

From what I noticed, I general the battery voltage is around 12-14 V and should be around 14-16 V when the 12 V battery get charged.

When the car is asleep, and there is only the phantom drain when park,
it would be simple to have a voltmeter connected directly to the 12 V battery in the frunk.

After locking the car for few hours, if the battery voltage was going well below 12 V,
this would be a good indication that the battery didn't get charged.

 

[Nate M]

Well now the car won't charge, so it's possible it's the charge port, unfortunately the supercharger is too far away at this point to test that theory, so it's currently getting towed to the SC. Not all that impressed since I just had the battery replaced two months ago, and Tesla call centre not all that helpful.

 

[demundus]

Tesla doesn't display the 12 V battery voltage, unlike several other EVs.

I would recommend adding a 12 V Auxiliary plug with a voltmeter, or use Scan My Tesla to check the battery voltage.

From what I noticed, I general the battery voltage is around 12-14 V and should be around 14-16 V when the 12 V battery get charged.

When the car is asleep, and there is only the phantom drain when park,
it would be simple to have a voltmeter connected directly to the 12 V battery in the frunk.

After locking the car for few hours, if the battery voltage was going well below 12 V,
this would be a good indication that the battery didn't get charged.

the battery charges at 14.6 and floats at 13.5

 

[Nate M]

Well the SC decided it's the charger so I am pushing then to give me the retro fit charger to give me the capability to charge at any DC fast station. Since it's not covered under warranty and I have to pay for it, I figure it's worth a shot

 

[Nate M]

Has anyone had experience with the 'scan my Tesla' app?

 

[Watts_Up]

Has anyone had experience with the 'scan my Tesla' app?

There are many threads talking about it.

Scan My Tesla (OBDII) Install​

I installed this app, and this allow you to check the status of your batteries (the 400 V and the 12 V) even when you are outside of your car.

 

[Nate M]

Thanks for the info!