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2013 S HV Battery Repair

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Hey All,

2013 Model S, headed to the airport during a storm and hit several points where I floated the car. I made it to the airport just fine but 4 days later returned to the car with a dead 12 V battery. Tried to jump start it with no luck and found the dreaded isolation fault codes. I have a machines and electronics background so am going to take a stab at repair before buying a new pack. After seeing a few threads here have a newfound hope I'll be able to dry this thing out and may just repair a few cells in the process.

A couple up front questions I couldn't find after an hour or two of searching.

What sockets do I need for the HV battery removal?
Do I disconnect the coolant lines and electrical connections prior to lowering the battery?


Anyway, here are the codes. I am guessing water ingress with damaged to some BMBs.. Just ordered the OBDlink and patch cable, so hoping to get battery voltages and more info soon.

BMS_U018 SOC Imbalance Limiting
BMS_W158 Low Isolation Wrn
GTW_w405 12V Not Supported
GTW_w018 hvac load shed
BMS_u008 Limp Mode
BMS_w172 SW Drive ISO Warning
BMS_w142 SW Isolation Degradation
BMS_w123 Internal Isolation
BMS_w110 SW Vsense
BMS_w059 Pack Voltage Sensing
BMS_w050 SW BMB MIA
BMS_w026 SW Ctrs Disabled
BMS_F110 SW Module Vsense
BMS_f050 SW BMB MIA
 
I love DIY projects, but this is one I wouldn't tackle. I assume you have some kind of lift, and some way to deal with a 1000 lb pack (people use another battery lift under the pack to support it although I did see one person use a bunch of 4x4s to support it and once the bolts removed, use a lift to pull the car up from the pack.

Ok, once the pack is removed, getting the top metal cover off is very difficult. It's held on with screws (easy) and sealant (hard). Usually, the cover is damaged in the process of removal, but perhaps you're lucky. I don't think Tesla sells the cover as a separate part you can buy.

I expect you will find water inside as the side seals deteriorate over time on early pack designs, so water can get in if flooded. You'll want to replace all the side seals as part of the refurbishment, but that will be the least of the problems. It's likely the BMS is shot and many cells have become fully discharged. I could see all modules needing replacement, but maybe you're lucky and only a few are destroyed and can be removed (if an 85 pack you're turning into a 60 pack). Not sure of what software tricks are needed to switch to a 60. You can't just replace modules (or cells), as the entire pack needs to be aged at the same rate and it will be close to impossible to find replacements at the same level of wear.

You're also potentially dealing with high voltages, so you need the proper gear and training.

I'd strongly consider a pack replacement - either by Tesla or Recell. They are not cheap, but a lot less effort and risk.
 
If diy is necessary then consider the supercharging factor if you rely on it: Tesla can block your account.

I'd prefer to rehab my pack and Tesla probably wouldn't know but the warranty will pay for itself if I need to sell the car.
 
its doable, i did it n few other ppl posted successful repairs even without lift
all those errors might be due to water inside but u could also have bad BMBs


 
Before the fault I was down to about 140-mile range. At ~$1500 a module then tooling and install, the estimate to repair in house was adding up. Got a Recell quote today and its a good offer. I think I am going to take that route. Thanks for all the help.

Kris