I'm generally happy with paint on new cars upon delivery. In fact I find myself tapering off on car after after the first couple years of ownership (once it has it's door dings and rock chips, and scratches because they make me sad every time I detail). Do I still need to clay bar and polish the car before ceramic coating it myself (I have never done this but I was thinking to drive the car home and immediately do this to it).
I know... Paint correction is best, but if I don't care can I just wash then apply the ceramic coating? I'm more after protecting the paint than perfection.
Long post incoming... to answer your question succinctly, you don't have to clay bar your car if it doesn't need it, Run your fingertips along the paint and see if you feel foreign objects or dragging in the paint; there may be sections that do need to be claybar-ed, there may be areas that don't.
At the very least though; wash the car immaculately and use a solution of water and isopropyl alcohol to remove any polish, wax or oils. best, long-lasting results with ceramic coating come when you prepare the surface properly.
When I get my brand new 3, I don't plan on doing "paint correction" either unless there are some really messed up scratches.
Here is my DIY plan for after delivery (might have to take a day or two off work to do this):
A) After picking up car testing AC / braking / acceleration and road noise, drive car immediately home.
B) Wash car with pressure sprayer and some pink ph balanced soap. Move car to shaded protected garage.
C) Spot test for areas that need claybar. Perform claybar to remove any micro objects, iron, foreign materials. (My X actually had quite a bit of yellow bits in the clearcoat tha thad to be claybar-ed out.)
D) Meticulously spray down and wipe each surface with 25% Isopropyl Alcohol / 75% water solution, (use a new high quality microfiber towel.)
E) Install PPF on hood, headlamps, front bumper, side mirrors, fenders and rear trunk lip.
F) Areas that won't be covered with PPF (roof, doors, etc); begin to apply CQUK 3.0; wipe off; repeat for 2 coats
F) Let PPF dry overnight, check for bubbles and areas that need to be laid down flat.
G) Assuming PPF is dry and no bubbles; Apply CQUK 3.0 to PPF surface.
H) Apply CQ DLUX to any black trim areas and underside of car.
I) Jack up Model 3 (!! use special jackpad !!!)
J) Remove each wheel one by one using jack; clean with alcohol solution and apply CQ DLUX to outside and inside of the wheel.
K) While each tire is off; also apply CQ DLUX to the paint on the caliper behind each tire.
L) Place car in sun (assuming no chance of rain) for 24 hours to cure. (avoid water like the plague to avoid any water spots in the first week.)
M) At some point I will also apply CQUK to the interior door sills, but I know I'll be burnt out on this, so I'll break that part out to let me get the most protective elements in place.
N) Apply tint.... but that is going to be a whole other can of worms.