I think it depends on the wheels. With silver [sport] wheels, I think the chrome looks really good. With black [aero] wheels, I think the chrome looks out of place. I've noticed that many other manufactures that offer dark wheels have body colored door handles so you don't have the conflicting chrome and dark.
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I think it depends on the wheels. With silver [sport] wheels, I think the chrome looks really good. With black [aero] wheels, I think the chrome looks out of place. I've noticed that many other manufactures that offer dark wheels have body colored door handles so you don't have the conflicting chrome and dark.
Looks great! I am thinking about doing this for my S. How did you Plastidip the folding mirrors? I’m concerned that when I fold them they will rub off the sprayed areas. Did you sprayed them folded and unfolded to cover the unexposed areas?
Plastidip can hold up really well provided that you do a lot of coats (at least 3 for chrome trim) during initial application, and if the car gets a lot of baking sun, that you give it a maintenance single coat every 3-4 years. The new coat will rejuvenate any UV deterioration. I would say most poor experiences with Plastidip is due to poor application. Either not prepping the surface well, or not spraying enough coats.
Plastidip is the cheapest way to chrome delete; you can do a Model S with $20-30 in spray cans. Some people feel like it's "too cheap" for a Tesla. meh. If it's applied right, it looks really good. And like the vinyl, you can easily undo it if you don't like it.
I love both chrome and chrome-deleted. For my Model S, I just deleted the chrome on the nosecone and kept it everywhere else.
Plastidip is the cheapest way to chrome delete; you can do a Model S with $20-30 in spray cans. Some people feel like it's "too cheap" for a Tesla. meh. If it's applied right, it looks really good. And like the vinyl, you can easily undo it if you don't like it.
I love both chrome and chrome-deleted. For my Model S, I just deleted the chrome on the nosecone and kept it everywhere else.
I did the full coats on it unfolded then did a couple with it folded after it dried.
I just re-did it to do in satin black. I did the mirror caps too and it looks amazing. No texture The more you do it, the better, my newest creation looks amazing after I put sealant and some wax on the paint and it just shines. Here is some pictures. Just needs a little lowering.
I'm not the OP but I've dipped my own cars before and consider myself pretty good at it.
First, clean the handle and surrounding area with isopropyl alcohol. This will get rid of any fingerprint oils and other junk. Let it dry.
Next, tape off around the handle, leaving about an inch of exposed body panel (don't worry, when it's all dry, it's really easy to peel off the plastidip on the panel). Then tape sheets of newspaper to protect the larger area from overspray. Blue painter's tape works well here.
To get the sides of the handle, you're going to need to find something that acts as a shim to keep the handle sticking out. I usually just use a chop saw to cut a piece of scrap wood to size. Whatever you use, just wedge the handle so it can't retract, being careful not to block the handle from your spray. Some people only care about the side face of the handle. I prefer to get the top and bottom as well so the handle doesn't look unfinished when I pull on them.
Now, as for spraying technique: there's only one trick you need to know: don't just hold down the nozzle and go back and forth. By doing this, you create thick spots where you change directions. You spray in a single direction in a straight line then take your finger off the nozzle. Then go the other way doing the same thing. This will give you so much better control in terms of applying light coats.
First pass should give you around 50% coverage, meaning you can still see chrome. That's ok, even if it looks mottled. Get all surfaces covered using the finger lift at each direction change. Wait 5 min for it to dry (a bit longer if it's really cold).
2nd pass should pretty much get you 100% coverage - no chrome showing. Thinner coats are better. If it looks wet/shiny, that's thick enough. Try not to spray over areas that look shiny. Let dry for 5-10 min.
3rd pass: don't skip this coat even if it looks like you got good coverage over the chrome on pass 2. You ideally want to build up the plastidip so it's thick. Thicker the better; it will be more durable to scuffing/scratching, more resistant to weathering, and possibly most importantly: easy to remove if/when you decide to remove it. Again spray till you see wet/shiny sheen.
4th pass and beyond: I'd say you don't need more than 5 or 6 coats. In many cases 3 coats is plenty; it's just that everyone's definition of a thin coat is different, so to be safe, go with 5 or 6 coats. On every pass you should not neglect the body panel around the handle. Keep it as thick as the handle. This will make it much easier to remove when you're ready to unmask and peel excess.
If your shim blocked part of the handle, you'll want to move it a bit on the 2nd and 3rd passes so that the bald spots get coverage.
Wait 30 min for some extra drying, and now you're ready to remove your tape and newspaper. Peeling off plastidip is really fun. It's like a thin film of rubber, and maybe it's just me, but it's pretty fun to peel off and watch it tear perfectly at seams.
This same process applies to badges and other chrome pieces on body panels. Trim around the windows requires a bit more precision taping but other than that, the spraying application is the same.
I learned by surfing youtube, watching videos like this. Pretty easy if you're a bit handy.
Does the trim work also require the dip-finishing spray that they use when they dip larger areas? I recall that being important according to Fonzie but that was when they did the whole car.
I didn’t see Fonzie mention it for these smaller trim/emblem jobs.
My plan, which I haven’t seen yet, is to try a chrome delete but not using black or even a matte finish....attempting to match up to the gun metal that is on the underlying (covers off) aero wheels on my multi-coat red 3. I will need to get someone else for tint and PPF but I’m excited to try the chrome change myself.
I didn’t see Fonzie mention it for these smaller trim/emblem jobs.
My plan, which I haven’t seen yet, is to try a chrome delete but not using black or even a matte finish....attempting to match up to the gun metal that is on the underlying (covers off) aero wheels on my multi-coat red 3. I will need to get someone else for tint and PPF but I’m excited to try the chrome change myself.
No need for a finishing coat for chrome delete. On wheels, depending on the product, you can apply a metalizer or a glossifier finish coat. Personally if I wanted to do the entire car, I'd just wrap it in vinyl professionally because at that point, it's too much DIY effort for my taste.
I've used Anthracite Gray (a satin metallic dark gray), which looks amazing and probably a really good match for the aero wheels. Seems a bit hard to find these days so maybe they've discontinued it in favor of another gunmetal-like color. If you're anal about the match, you could just dip the wheels too.
The gunmetal color is also good for badges if you don't like the black on black look. Gunmetal badges on black car looks pretty sweet IMO. And white cars too.
I've used Anthracite Gray (a satin metallic dark gray), which looks amazing and probably a really good match for the aero wheels. Seems a bit hard to find these days so maybe they've discontinued it in favor of another gunmetal-like color. If you're anal about the match, you could just dip the wheels too.
The gunmetal color is also good for badges if you don't like the black on black look. Gunmetal badges on black car looks pretty sweet IMO. And white cars too.
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I would be interested in a DIY Chrome Delete of my yet to be delivered Blue Model 3. However, I would love to have the door handles match the body. Does anyone know if there is a vinyl wrap color that matches the Tesla blue body? or which one is close enough? or am I better off going black or other color to avoid being off by a shade.
how is the plastidip holding up on the mirrors after them opening and closing for a while?
@zackmilo
I'm seriously considering going this route as everyone quoted me for$650 or more. Any chance you can post a step by step and any quirks/snags you encountered with info on how you resolved them?
Thank you in advance. I know it's been a while since this thread but ramp is picking up so I expect more people will find and read this.
doozenberg
Member
Anyone seen a grayed-out chrome delete to match the aero wheel / 18" rim gray? It's more like a charcoal gray. To avoid the 'murdered-out' all black-on-black look; going for a more subtle look. Would love to see pics or a link
Sorry to dig up an old thread. I'm planning to spray my mirrors too. By any chance, would you be able to post of how your mirrors look as they fold and unfold? any chrome showing as they fold/unfold?
first unfold them, spray it, then wait a while fold them and then spray while folded
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