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I bought this box, from a company in Florida, I will be installing this in the next few weeks. (Waiting on weather to warm up...) You can see from their youtube how it looks, they were great, super fast shipping and its well built.
I attached a few photos of mine, I got the the passenger side one as I wanted it on the factory side. I have one showing the sub installed and the other was my test dry fit. (It will push back further once I remove the plastic trim.)
To me it was worth the money to buy the prefab box, I have built custom boxes for my cars in the past, as well as some of my friends over the years, but I was not comfortable doing a resin box in the trunk of my Tesla. (Big difference between a Honda civic and a Tesla...) My plan is to build a custom shelf in the trunk well to mount the class D amp as well as a switch to turn off the remote turn on line for longer road trips so I don't loose my range.
Here is the link to the video of it installed:
Their store: Tesla Model S Subwoofer Enclosure Box | AudioDesigns&CustomGraphics
Brian
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thats awesome. let us know how it sounds!
i think those are definitely the most common ones. i really wanted to do one in the lower compartment. i have a huge RE sub that id love to put in so i need quite a bit of volume in my box. what volume are your boxes and are they sealed or ported?
One sub. No amp built in. I've never fiberglassed so I'm not super confidemt with it. Doesn't look terribly hard though. My sub needs a lot of volume.A box in the storage area would be pretty easy to build... Would you be setting it up for one sub or two? Would you also integrate the amp in to the box too?
You can also just use MDF too since its a rectangle cutout, just seal everything really well. You still have to use MDF rings for sub support, as fiberglass alone cant hold the weight of a sub.
Fortunately fiberglass work is actually pretty simple. Just make sure you cover up the area super well to avoid any drips or spills on to the carpet. I usually lay out at plastic and tape it down, making sure to overlap by a few inches and having tape cover all seams.I then also lay an extra couple of feet of plastic out from the area as well to make sure it's protected.
Make sure to get a decent mold release spray, or a good carnauba wax to coat the plastic to make removing it easier.
If you end up needing even more space than what the footwell gives you, you can always fill the box with polyfill, or something similar and help out for the volume.
I assumed (likely incorrectly) that he'd be using MDF for the top since it would be super simple.
But MDF CAN support a sub, but it'd have to be pretty thick, and would flex quite a bit, definitely not ideal to do just FG for support.
I've actually been contemplating either building a footwell box myself, or building one like the NVX enclosure.
yes i was definitely planning to use a large piece of mdf at the top to close off the bottom mold and to hold the sub. i'm just not sure how i would bond the top piece of mdf to the bottom fiberglass mold? any ideas? lol
this looks very clean!!On a side note, the weather was nice today and I was able to install the subwoofer and get it tuned. I will say what a difference in the lower end, it brings back whats missing in the sound in my car.
My setup is as follows:
10 Infinity Kappa Perfect (No longer made, I have had it for 10+ years in various cars)
Blaupunkt PA2100 Class T Amp Bridged
Audio Control LC2I
The Amp is small enough to fit under the subwoofer in the side cubby so I do not loose any of the lower space. I also installed a rocker switch from an RV, and mounted underneath to disable the remote turn on for long trips to conserve battery range.
Still need to paint the grille matte black, but it looks and sounds awesome.
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The sub install turned out great. I have been interested in adding a sub as I have for previous cars but I am curious about the current draw on the 12V system. Where is the best place to tap the B+, the battery post? How about the audio signal; where is the best place to connect it?