Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Dash cam DIY install Model 3

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
So, I installed my DR750 2 channel dashcam in my model 3 today, and figured I would share as there are not may reports of it so far. Tried to take pictures along the way- not sure how useful it will be, but hope it helps someone.

I am for sure a DIY solution- not nearly as clean as places like calibrated customs- however I am still pretty happy with my finished product and the time (and money) invested for the install.

I opted to go for directly under the rear view mirror
IMG_1869.jpg


I didnt want to pull the entire housing off the autopilot camera- as I have not found a good guide and am not 100% sure where all the clips are located - and did not want to damage anything, so I just too the cord clips and ran them right next to the housing (again, not 100% clean, but minimally noticeable unless you are looking for it).

IMG_1870.jpg

(another view of the clips)


I then ran the cords to the passenger side by tucking them into the headliner, then through both straight through the gap and under the rubber trim of the door/side of the headliner. (left them sticking out here for picture, but they were all tucked in and invisible when done.
IMG_1871.jpg


The power cord then I just ran forward down inside the rubber trim, and for now I have it under the passenger floormat and into the cigarette lighter (I plan on going up through the firewall and connecting to 12v battery, but want to make sure I know what I am doing there first).
IMG_1872.jpg

and here it is under teh floor mat and going into center console (yes, my car needs a vacuum )
IMG_1879.jpg


For the rear view camera I continued back and across the headliner piece at the A pillar.

IMG_1874.jpg


And continued back under the rubber trim- I actually went too far under the rubber trim- as I could not find a clean way to get it out for rear window, so instead back tracked a bit, and right behind the A pillar in the back seat I again went through the break in the trim to now be next to the rear windshield
IMG_1877.jpg


From there it was a simple trek back and along the base of the window to mount the camera at the base of the window. The most annoying part of this was what to do with all the extra cord - so I ended up just zig zagging a few times back and forth to tuck it in and hide it (picture trying to show that as well included). The only part that is still visible is I tried to hide some cord along the back and it didn't quite tuck all the way in, I think ill pull that out and instead take it up along the headliner again to hide it better, but its again minimally noticeable and I am sure the only one who would ever know is myself.
IMG_1878.jpg

(the zig zag back up and down to take up the slack)

IMG_1883.jpg

location of the camera- and in the left the area of cord that isnt quite hidden.

IMG_1884.jpg

and a closeup of the visable cord (it starts at the corner, comes up and back literally just to take up slack- so it should be easy to instead re route it up the headliner and back to hide it).




Overall I actually found this install quite a bit easier then when I installed in my dad's model X a couple months back. (Not sure how much is due to easier path and not going through falcon wing doors, vs this being my second install and it always is easier with a bit of practice).

Once I get the power through the firewall and into the frunk/12V battery I will update.
 
The install looks good! Have you had any issues with rattles from the wires?
So far no.... however I have driven the car about 15 yards pulling out of garage and into other garage bay. I am taking a trip down to San Diego this evening though and should have plenty of time to listen to rattles- I dont suspect there should be any- as none of the cords feel loose behind the headliner, all of them feel pretty snugly tucked in.
 
  • Like
Reactions: zkmusa
Looks great! Thanks for the inspiration; I'm pretty sure I'll be doing a DIY approach that doesn't involve any trim removal.

Am I right in saying that because the wires cross the roof beams at headliner seams that they will not cross any airbags? That is my biggest concern is reducing the effectiveness of one of the air bags with a wire. Like you, I'm not confident enough in my abilities to remove any trim pieces so won't see exactly where the air bags are.

Thanks for sharing; looking forward to your driving experience with it and any changes in power source.
 
Any concerns that this routing will interfere with the airbags? In particular the A pillar airbag and the curtains? In the model S it is best to route the rear camera cable along the floor, and pull back the A pillar trim to to put the cables in the channel behind the airbag.
 
Any concerns that this routing will interfere with the airbags? In particular the A pillar airbag and the curtains? In the model S it is best to route the rear camera cable along the floor, and pull back the A pillar trim to to put the cables in the channel behind the airbag.

I will plead the 5th and say I honestly do not know. I cant imagine they would be in the way of anything, as they run along the inside edge of the headliner, and when it goes across the A pillar its right at the seam. However I intentionally did not pull off all the trim so I dont know the layout of the airbags behind the trim- so if you die because of my install... please dont sue
 
Hmmmm.... I found this picture supposedly in the owner's manual which makes it look as though the wire crossing the top of the a-pillar and crossing back to the roof behind the b-pillar may be crossing over the curtain air bag.

Might be worth looking into.
View attachment 275658


That does make it seem that way... I have to adjust the wiring to make it a bit more clean anyways- perhaps I should try to stay on the underside of the headliner instead of going up top- I'll do some fiddling (but unfortunately my model 3 had some issues tonight (screen works, but seems to be unconnected to car and I cant change any functions- and when I put it in drive it will drive- but it feels like its on valet mode and the screen still shows me in park).

I had a call into service today, they had no clue but said head engineer will be back tomorrow so I will be giving a call and perhaps a trip to the service center. Not ideal- but I knew what I was signing up for as a beta tester- and when the car drives it makes headaches like this fully worth it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: zkmusa
Thanks for doing this, have you looked into any of the solutions for continuous power?

I think I will be using the 12v battery in the frunk- just waiting for someone else to do writeup for the actual wiring technique. I'm pretty DIY, and have done enough electrical stuff around the house that I have an 82% chance of not killing myself, but I want to make sure I am doing it correctly before I do anything to damage the dashcam- or more importantly my car.
 
I think I will be using the 12v battery in the frunk- just waiting for someone else to do writeup for the actual wiring technique. I'm pretty DIY, and have done enough electrical stuff around the house that I have an 82% chance of not killing myself, but I want to make sure I am doing it correctly before I do anything to damage the dashcam- or more importantly my car.

We should build some kind of adapter that just clips on so people don't risk electrocuting themselves.
 
The 12V is significantly easier than the S/X...that is what I had done on my 3. We checked a lot of interior sources (without slicing cables) and were only getting 9V after the car went to sleep. Probably better to go directly to the battery anyways...I wouldn't want to tap into a source used for autopilot or airbags.
 
The 12V is significantly easier than the S/X...that is what I had done on my 3. We checked a lot of interior sources (without slicing cables) and were only getting 9V after the car went to sleep. Probably better to go directly to the battery anyways...I wouldn't want to tap into a source used for autopilot or airbags.

When your installer took apart the trims, were they able to find where the fuse box is? I have a different dash cam and need a connection to the ACC in order to activate parking mode, so connect to the fuse box (if there is one) would work better.
 
When your installer took apart the trims, were they able to find where the fuse box is? I have a different dash cam and need a connection to the ACC in order to activate parking mode, so connect to the fuse box (if there is one) would work better.

The elusive fuse box has not been discovered yet. There must be 12 volt fuse protection somewhere in the car.
 
The 12V is significantly easier than the S/X...that is what I had done on my 3. We checked a lot of interior sources (without slicing cables) and were only getting 9V after the car went to sleep. Probably better to go directly to the battery anyways...I wouldn't want to tap into a source used for autopilot or airbags.

Did they wire a 12 cigarette lighter to the battery and plug the dash cam into that? Or cut the power cord of dashcam and directly wire it?