Does anyone have a Model X MCU2 Wiring Diagram?

[sparkles]

I am planning an aftermarket audio upgrade for my 2018 Model X with MCU2 (base audio system) and was wondering if anyone has a wiring diagram that would help me figure out which wires to tap into behind the MCU2.
I want to tap the front left and right as well as the rear left and right to send through a JL Audio Fix 86 to send “clean”signal to a 5 channel amp.
I realize it’s possible to open everything up and trace the lines, but hoping to cover all the bases before I have a shop open up the dash.
Thank you very much in advance!

 

[sparkles]

I was able to get a hold of an old 2014 Model S Wiring Diagram / Connector list and figured out how to decode the diagrams and connector model numbers and such. I'm pretty excited about that part, but based on other forum thread (2017 Model S front speaker wire colors), it seems that at the very least, the wiring colors have changed over the years even on the Model S (2014 vs 2017). For example, speaker wire colors differences from 2014 Manual vs 2017 report by TMC user t0mmyr:

All these channels were located on a gray 10-pin connector called "X426" which is a Molex part #: 31372-1100

Front Left Woofer
Positive - 2014 - White (Pin #3) vs 2017 - Blue/White
Negative - 2014 - White/ Black (Pin #4) vs 2017 - Blue

FL Tweeter in 2014 - Positive: Tan / Negative: Tan/Black
- tweeter on same channel as woofer on base audio

Front Right Woofer
Positive - 2014 - Gray (Pin #1) vs 2017 - Green/White
Negative - 2014 - Gray/Black (Pin #2) vs 2017 - Green

FR Tweeter in 2014 was Positive: Brown / Negative: Brown/Black
- tweeter on same channel as woofer on base audio

Rear Left Woofer
Positive - 2014 - Violet (Pin #9) vs 2017 - Red/White
Negative - 2014 - Violet/Black (Pin#10) vs 2017 - Gray

Rear Right Woofer
Positive - 2014 - Dark Green (Pin #5) vs 2017 - Red
Negative - 2014 - Dark Green/Black (Pin #6) vs 2017 - Red/Black


Center dash 3" speaker comes from the black 10-pin connector called "X425", which is a Molex part # 31372-1000

Center Dash Speaker
Positive - 2014 - Pink (Pin #5)
Negative - 2014 - Pink/Black (Pin #6)


If I can get a hold of the 2018 Model X Wiring Diagram, I would be happy to decode and document everything.
Thank you!

 

[sparkles]

Bump. I am trying to create a harness that would replace the existing factory harness (gray molex).
This would allow you to swap back to a stock speaker setup without any modifications behind the dash.

Thank you!

 

[sparkles]

Please PM me if you can get your hands on this. Willing to venmo or paypal - send me ab offer. Thanks!

 

[sparkles]

After several days of searching I was able to get my hands on the diagram.
Since this took a decent amount of effort to find, I thought I would post my findings for others to reference in the future.
For anyone with a 2018 Model X base package / new MCU2, here is a summary of the wiring:

Front Center Speaker on Center of Dash
On the black 10-pin connector
Positive Pin 5 Black/White
Negative Pin 6 White

Front Right Tweeter on A Pillar
On the gray 10-pin connector
Positive Pin 1 Brown/White
Negative Pin 2 Brown

Front Right Woofer on Door
On the black 10-pin connector
Positive Pin 1 Green/White
Negative Pin 2 Green

Front Left Tweeter on A Pillar
On the gray 10-pin connector
Positive Pin 3 Black/White
Negative Pin 4 White

Front Left Woofer on Door
On the black 10-pin connector
Positive Pin 3 Blue/White
Negative Pin 4 Blue

Rear Right Woofer / Tweeter (Tesla has a Crossover down the line that splits)
On the gray 10-pin connector
Positive Pin 5 Red
Negative Pin 6 Blue

Rear Left Woofer / Tweeter (Tesla has a Crossover down the line that splits)
On the gray 10-pin connector
Positive Pin 9 Red
Negative Pin 10 Gray

Contrary to other older MCU wiring diagrams I have seen, this one seems to split the speaker level outputs across the Black and Gray connectors. Front channels are split at the factory amp for Tweeter / Woofer, so you may need to do channel summing (ie. use a JL Audio Fix 86 or similar) to get the full range signal to the aftermarket amp or DSP

Since the rear speakers have a factory crossover (component speakers), you should expect a somewhat full range signal when you tap right near the back of the MCU.

I am going to be tapping all those lines and inputting them into a JL Fix 86 to ensure I have a clean signal going to my aftermarket JL amp with integrated DSP.

On another note, the gray and black connectors are actually accessible (I believe you can also disconnect them) from the bottom of the MCU when you remove the factory cubby by pushing down and sliding back.

Please let me know if there's anything I can do to help.
Thanks

 

[verygreen]

Please let me know if there's anything I can do to help.

Just don't try listening to slacker (streaming tab in the media UI). They cap bitrate at 40kbps for those penny-pinchers that did not pay for the premium package. Also as an additional punishment, they will restart your slacker audio stream every time the screen wakes up.

 

[sparkles]

Finally finished the plug and play harness for my aftermarket audio project.

It took a lot a lot more effort than I imagined, but it should provide speaker-level audio out signal to the DSP (6 channels + accessory turn-on) without needing to cut any factory wires. This way I can go back to a stock setup in the future if I need to sell my car.

Attached is a photo of the finished product.

If anyone else is interested in doing this, pm me

Thanks

 

[Montej75]

Finally finished the plug and play harness for my aftermarket audio project.

It took a lot a lot more effort than I imagined, but it should provide speaker-level audio out signal to the DSP (6 channels + accessory turn-on) without needing to cut any factory wires. This way I can go back to a stock setup in the future if I need to sell my car.

Attached is a photo of the finished product.

If anyone else is interested in doing this, pm me

Thanks

Tried to DM you to get my hands on one of those amazing harnesses. Please reach out, I would love to do something similar

Jeremy M

 

[siamnet]

Anyone have the audio diagram for premium audio for Model S?
I'm wondering if the plugs are similar between the S and X. Thank you.

 

[yaseenc]

could really use some advice on upgrading the base audio of '17 mx - need a sub woofer

 

[siamnet]

could really use some advice on upgrading the base audio of '17 mx - need a sub woofer

This the PDF file but for MX (August 21, 2017 - March 5, 2018). Not sure what your make month is on your MX.

Either you can grab the subwoofer signal from the MCU's LINE OUT (balance output, 3 wires) or sum the door speakers signal. Not many people are able to use LINE OUTs from the MCU. (page 5 of the PDF diagram)

Door speakers signal - might need a signal analyzer to make sure "all" low frequency is presented. (page 4 of PDF).

After you figure out the source of sub signal to use then it's a personal preference/requirement on which sub/box and mono amplifier combo to use.
Your MX has more "room" then my MS and you may have lesser requirement/restriction that I have for size and location of my box.
So, depending on your requirement which includes your musical listening taste, either a sealed or ported box and you need to select 10 vs 12 unless you just want high SPL subwoofer.

Initially, I was using a JL audio TW3 10inch in their prefab box (wedge series and sealed box). This entire box fits nicely in my rear lower trunk where things aren't rattling around in the main trunk. Now, I've "upgraded" my front sound stage (passive to full active) and need that lower rear trunk for an additional amp rack then I opted to get a custom box to fit in the passenger side rear where the premium subwoofer used to sit. This new sub box was built around a Audiomobile Evo 10 inch subwoofer (as recommended by many folks for tight SQ bass). I don't have this new box installed yet since it was delivered to my house in Buffalo and I been away. I was happy with my JL Audio TW3 but I don't have room for it.

Radioactive in Burlington has my MS at the moment (rewiring my mess that I did on my own last year, tuning my Helix DSP, etc.). You can give them a call to see if they can do something for your MX.
Radioactive (Alex) can build you a custom box for your vehicle and he has recommended Audiomobile Evo subs.

 

[yaseenc]

awesome! will give him a shout

 

[siamnet]

awesome! will give him a shout

I can let you listen to my system later this month in order for you to make a decision on which subwoofer drivers to use. I will be selling my JL Audio sub afterwards. CS110LG-TW3

I can probably let you listen with JL Audio sub and immediately disconnect and connect the new sub for comparison.

 

[yaseenc]

that would be perfect - when are u in town? also - how come ur changing it?

 

[siamnet]

that would be perfect - when are u in town? also - how come ur changing it?

I'm in town now but my new sub enclosure hasn't arrive yet. Once, that arrives, I'll message you via this forum.

As for the reason for changing it..please refer to my previous response to your initial question:

 

[yaseenc]

that makes sense - how much was the active upgrade?

 

[siamnet]

that makes sense - how much was the active upgrade?

I wrote "active upgrade" just to keep the convo short but in reality, I had a laundry list for them to redo my entire system.

Last year, I did a DIY install of a 3 way speakers (replace my front PREMIUM speakers) but not full active since tweets & mids had a passive Xover. I ran the entire system with just one 5 channel amp and Helix DSP.3s.

So, I asked them to redo my power wires and signal wires since I my DSP only had 6 inputs and thought I could use LINE OUT but couldn't figure that out myself. Thus, I tap into the rear speaker and front door midbass to feed into my DSP. So, they put in a 10 channel Helix DSP and tuned it for me.

They also built me an amp rack and redid the speaker wire...pretty much very labor intensive to make sure my speakers were bolted/seated properly (my midrange, I didn't have the correct screws, I just sat it there in the OEM hole w/o securing it since the grill would have kept it from moving).

Thus, labor for the above was $4k CAD. I am sure, just to, 1) tap a sub signal and 2)run power wires for a sub amp (for your upgrade) would be less than my labor. Plus, I supplied my own parts (e.g., new amp, new Helix DSP, etc.) except for power wires/signal wires.

 

[lit af]

Finally finished the plug and play harness for my aftermarket audio project.

It took a lot a lot more effort than I imagined, but it should provide speaker-level audio out signal to the DSP (6 channels + accessory turn-on) without needing to cut any factory wires. This way I can go back to a stock setup in the future if I need to sell my car.

Attached is a photo of the finished product.

If anyone else is interested in doing this, pm me

Thanks

do u think u could make something similar to make a 2023 console work in our 2018 model x?

 

[siamnet]

do u think u could make something similar to make a 2023 console work in our 2018 model x?

Gladen/Mosconi makes an audio harness for the Model S/X that plugs into their DSP/AMP. You'll have to call around the local dealers and it's about ~700 USD. It only provides high level output from the MCU and doesn't provide line outs.

That guy, "sparkles", I spoke to him before and he no longer had this car and was several projects ago for him. I highly doubt that he would go through the trouble again (I've asked him how to make it and he couldn't remember).