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I don’t think I have the gut to DIY. The drive unit has been replaced once in 2017 around 90k under warranty. The car still drives fine but I am debating to spend $$$ versus just selling the car. I called Tony at EVFixMe but he has not responded yet.It's good to hear that your s made it to 180k. My drive unit failed just under 70k. I hear that ev fix me in Costa Mesa can replace it.
I called Henry at Ev parts solutions (in Phoenix.) He sent a used drive unit to Cali and I replaced it myself. Have you thought about diy?
Do you mind if I ask what are you experiencing with the drive unit?I don’t think I have the gut to DIY. The drive unit has been replaced once in 2017 around 90k under warranty. The car still drives fine but I am debating to spend $$$ versus just selling the car. I called Tony at EVFixMe but he has not responded yet.
The car stopped while driving (in the stop sign) and PRND turned to red. It re-started by itself. It occurred twice within 3 weeks periodDo you mind if I ask what are you experiencing with the drive unit?
4 years 50kIf the SC did it, what is warranty on that replaced drive unit?
I am no professional by any means but that sounds more electrical than mechanical. The drive unit does have a lot of electronics so I can see where their recommendation might be valid. I would like to hear what others would suggest for this. If it were me.... Drive it until I can't drive it anymore then replace whatever breaks. I am always in Cali. If you want to swap it out before it leaves you stranded please let me know. I can help if you need it.The car stopped while driving (in the stop sign) and PRND turned to red. It re-started by itself. It occurred twice within 3 weeks period
I am kinda surprised when the SC told me the drive unit. I told them that the DU has been replaced in 2017 due to noise/buzzing issue. Do we as customer has to pay $8K every 4 years ? I finally get on hold with Tony EvFixMe and made apt with him. I will let you know the outcome.I am no professional by any means but that sounds more electrical than mechanical. The drive unit does have a lot of electronics so I can see where their recommendation might be valid. I would like to hear what others would suggest for this. If it were me.... Drive it until I can't drive it anymore then replace whatever breaks. I am always in Cali. If you want to swap it out before it leaves you stranded please let me know. I can help if you need it.
The problem w Tesla service is that they view the entire car as modular. If it's a fixable element in the drive unit, they still replace the entire drive unit. Great when you're under warranty, expensive if you aren't.
I remember in 2012, the metallic `T' applique on the steering fell came off. Tesla replaced the entire steering wheel. That should have been a warning for what's to come
Negative!!!! 8k - 10k every 4 years is not ok. 2 months ago the Burbank service center quoted me 9.5k for drive unit and both axles. I was 300 miles away from home and my tools. I replaced the drive unit, had it back on the road in about a week and spent half of what they quoted me. (The replacement only took 2 days and it was my first attempt.) My newest solution is to DIY everything that we possibly can. This is why I offer help to anyone with an out of warranty S. I haven't replaced everything, but I willing to try. Honestly it is easier to work on than a gas engine.I am kinda surprised when the SC told me the drive unit. I told them that the DU has been replaced in 2017 due to noise/buzzing issue. Do we as customer has to pay $8K every 4 years ? I finally get on hold with Tony EvFixMe and made apt with him. I will let you know the outcome.
The most common issue is the failure of a seal that allows coolant to leak into the inverter housing and eventually corrode the electronics. This is almost certainly what’s happened.I am no professional by any means but that sounds more electrical than mechanical.
It sounds like you are very familiar with the process. Have you replaced the seal on a drive unit?The most common issue is the failure of a seal that allows coolant to leak into the inverter housing and eventually corrode the electronics. This is almost certainly what’s happened.
I have not. Just been around a long time and familiar with others that have done so and/or provided good info to the community. This thread is probably the most complete if you want to do some reading…It sounds like you are very familiar with the process. Have you replaced the seal on a drive unit?
Thanks for the input. This makes sense. I let you know this week.The most common issue is the failure of a seal that allows coolant to leak into the inverter housing and eventually corrode the electronics. This is almost certainly what’s happened.
Took the car to Tony. Nothing wrong with drive unit. It seems the problem was related to loose ground as in addition to PRND error, there are many other errors related to break light etc. Tony cleaned the connection and asked me to drive around and see the error code will disappear. I will keep you posted.Thanks for the input. This makes sense. I let you know this week.
You probably right. It is the corrosion on loose ground. Will see……The most common issue is the failure of a seal that allows coolant to leak into the inverter housing and eventually corrode the electronics. This is almost certainly what’s happened.
Have you seen that in writing, other than the warranty FAQ page on Tesla site? Have heard of Tesla alternatively saying it is not to extend past initial 8 year/unlimited warranty, and have also heard of one year/12k miles coverage on replaced LDU4 years 50k