Driver Centric Center Display

[rvandrew]

Hi @chojn1
In a Conversation, I have asked you about material suppliers. Any chance You could help me track down these supplies? I was hoping to work on my interior in the near future. I know you are busy, and there are only so many hours in the day, but if you could help me, I would really appreciate it.
Thank you.

 

[chojn1]

Hi @rvandrew,
Textiles I bought at a local fabric store in Houston. You do need to hold and feel the fabric to get exactly what you want.
Besides, support the local economy.
For adhesive, 3M stuffs are the best.
300LSE is the double sided adhesive I used for the center console.
Super 77 spray adhesive could also work for a one time application.
Good luck,
CJ

 

[Promo714]

Put me on the list. Thanks.

 

[rvandrew]

@chojn1 , thanks for the info. I thought it might have been Amazon. I have hit a few of the fabric stores in my area, haven’t found a grey leather with a color I like as much as the one I saw you use. I will keep checking around. Thanks for the adhesive info as well.

 

[donalah]

@chojn1, I'm so curious as to what your day job is - you should seriously be working for Tesla in their design/ ergonomics division!

 

[rvandrew]

@chojn1, Any new news in aluminum CNC parts?

 

[chojn1]

@chojn1, Any new news in aluminum CNC parts?

I was playing with the mill on Tuesday and this is what I have so far.

The other bracket should be finish tomorrow if I can find some free time.

 

[chojn1]

@chojn1, I'm so curious as to what your day job is - you should seriously be working for Tesla in their design/ ergonomics division!

I play a doctor in real life.
This is just a hobby.

 

[rvandrew]

I was playing with the mill on Tuesday and this is what I have so far.

View attachment 344975

The other bracket should be finish tomorrow if I can find some free time.

Looks nice. Are you threading the aluminum, or just having the bolt pass through, then use a nut and lock washer on the opposite side? Were you going to counterbore the hole for a bolt head, or just leave flat and use flat bottomed bolt? I don't know how much room there is around where the bracket fits onto the monitor to get a wrench in place

 

[chojn1]

Looks nice. Are you threading the aluminum, or just having the bolt pass through, then use a nut and lock washer on the opposite side? Were you going to counterbore the hole for a bolt head, or just leave flat and use flat bottomed bolt? I don't know how much room there is around where the bracket fits onto the monitor to get a wrench in place

Tap thread on one side, counter sink on the other. All will be done by the CNC machine of course.
The CNC company have the final drawings, I am just waiting for their quotes.
For better or worse, oil is picking back up and the machinists are busy now.
So, this small project will get pushed to lower priority.

 

[Shopaholic]

@chojn1, don't remember if I asked earlier, please put me down for the "screen bracket". Thanks.

 

[rvandrew]

Tap thread on one side, counter sink on the other. All will be done by the CNC machine of course.
The CNC company have the final drawings, I am just waiting for their quotes.
For better or worse, oil is picking back up and the machinists are busy now.
So, this small project will get pushed to lower priority.

I know the feeling. We have a complete CNC machine shop here at my work, and it is either feast or famine. Work for the CNC comes in waves, you never know if it will be a day or 2 weeks to get the parts you want. Things are fairly slow right now for them, let me know if you want me to have them take a look at it, see how long it would take to get a batch made

 

[rvandrew]

@chojn1, I had a thought about your aluminum brackets. The current mounting method has a 2 sided tang which actually has some flexibility. So, when a bolt is inserted, it actually compresses the tangs against the bracket protrusions of the monitor. With your squared off aluminum brackets, tightening a bolt inserted through the bracket side that has the opening for the monitor “posts” wouldn’t necessarily give any compression against the posts. Since those posts are actually slotted, it may be possible for the monitor to actually have some movement capability, what my grandfather used to call machinery slop. A thin blade cut through the body of the bracket may allow a small amount of compression of the outer bracket against the posts and remove that movement possibility, and since that area is held in compression by the bolts, may not significantly affect component strength. You may not have noticed it in your printed brackets, as the material may have had sufficient flex to compress against the posts. I may be overthinking this, just thought I would mention the possibility.

 

[dhu1]

I’m in for the bracket

 

[rvandrew]

Hi @chojn1,
I was talking to one of our machinists, showed him the pic of the bracket, he agreed a gap would help clamping force, he also recommended having a radius where the nose piece meets the base, to minimize stress risers. He made a bracket out of titanium for his racing bike, forgot to put in a radius at a size change, snapped it in a race. He added a very small radius, never had a problem since.

 

[gujudog]

put me down for the bracket please.

 

[chojn1]

Hi @chojn1,
I was talking to one of our machinists, showed him the pic of the bracket, he agreed a gap would help clamping force, he also recommended having a radius where the nose piece meets the base, to minimize stress risers. He made a bracket out of titanium for his racing bike, forgot to put in a radius at a size change, snapped it in a race. He added a very small radius, never had a problem since.
View attachment 346390

Hi @rvandrew,

Thanks for all the great suggestions. That aluminum block is just me playing with the milling machine. The final product will be made by professionals on their CNC. The design does call for a 1/8" filet at those points as well as internally in the inferior cavity. Pretty easily achieved with the correct bit which I didn't have at the time.
As far as the "slop" we had planned on silicon inserts, but your slit idea is a good one. I'll bring it up the next time I talk to the machinist.
Thanks,
CJ

 

[Brian's ReX]

The engineer in me is jumping with excitement at this thread!!!

The realist in me says "WHY, OH WHY DID I GIVE MY 3 AWAY?!?!?!"

I don't even have my 3, but I kind of want to get these too! (don't put me down, however, until I check with the current owner - my nephew)

CJ... you are a delight! Keep up the great work!!

 

[TechFreq]

Great work@chojn1! Add me to the list please.

 

[JES2]

Hi @rvandrew,

Thanks for all the great suggestions. That aluminum block is just me playing with the milling machine. The final product will be made by professionals on their CNC. The design does call for a 1/8" filet at those points as well as internally in the inferior cavity. Pretty easily achieved with the correct bit which I didn't have at the time.
As far as the "slop" we had planned on silicon inserts, but your slit idea is a good one. I'll bring it up the next time I talk to the machinist.
Thanks,
CJ

CJ, this might have been discussed in the earlier part of the thread, but do you ever see Tesla actually making the modification themselves to this screen (a tilt capability, even if it is locked?) It would seem to make sense, but I wonder if Tesla has any issue for not doing that. I can see where no tilt makes it easier for a company producing left and right driver cars. If the car is driverless, then I can see no tilt being better for rear view passengers.

One other question, by modifying the screen tilt, will Tesla have any issue with warranty on the screen? I would assume that it is not likely an issue, but has anyone discussed this alteration with any Tesla service teams?

Frankly, I would love to do the modification, but I have zero ability for any type of mechanical work. I have old eyes and trying to look at a screen from an angle with small fonts to begin with is a chore.