Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Are you sure you two guys are talking about the same fuse? Most of us would drag up a fuse diagram with the officially assigned numbers and use it as a reference. Serves you well.
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Hardwiring a device on the windshield (like a radar detector)
- Thread starter DerbyDave
- Start date
I have 3 fuse diagrams, all different for my model S. Researching this car is very difficult. Tesla, unlike every other manufacturer, does not publish the fuse info, and thinks the customer should not touch the fuses. If you have an accurate fuse diagram, please post it. Apparently, some of my fuses are different. The chart I used shows a 15A fuse 4 fuses down on the left side that controls the 12V outlet in the center console. I have one 15A fuse anywhere near the location I specified in my fuse box for the left column. He does not have a 15A fuse in that location. Perhaps his 20A fuse controls the same 12V outlet. I can't tell you why. If you also might have an explanation for this for the same model and year car, I'd love to hear it.
Instead if offering help and solutions, you appear just to want to bitch about me endangering passengers and not using fuse charts. "Serves you well." is a bitching comment for someone who does not know or does not want to offer solutions.
Instead if offering help and solutions, you appear just to want to bitch about me endangering passengers and not using fuse charts. "Serves you well." is a bitching comment for someone who does not know or does not want to offer solutions.
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Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Forgive me, but I don't care about you endangering anyone. Wow. You are wound pretty tight today, reading between the lines here sir. I didn't see anything in "his" post or his signature that hinted to what year his S is. Yes, they are different from '13 and '16/'17. Don't know how different 2020 is from his, since I didn't see anything that says what year his is.
Sorry I said anything. If I have anything useful for your situation - I promise to just keep it to myself and let you figure it out. I am outa here.
Sorry I said anything. If I have anything useful for your situation - I promise to just keep it to myself and let you figure it out. I am outa here.
This is the post that implied I was endangering passengers. You continue to keep useful information to yourself, and seem condescending of our efforts. Please post a fuse chart or add some information that can help if you have it. Thanks.
joe.smith
Member
Sorry, I'm sort of a NOOB with this forum. I implied I had a 2020 because I mentioned I was getting a "soon-to-be-delivered MS", however, I should have explicitly stated it in my signature. I just figured out how to do it and it has since been updated - sorry.
So, I think you can see our quandary, right? Same model, same year, same physical location of the fuse, but different amperages and slightly different behavior of our detectors. Makes one think it's a different circuit/wiring. Hence the question, "I wonder what they changed?"
And, for the record, I followed DerbeDave's instructions about the wiring channel under the A-pillar cover and routed my cable in it (with zip ties), right alongside the factory wiring - no chance of interfering with the airbag operation.
joe.smith
Member
DerbyDave,
You didn't get FSD on your car, right? I did; I wonder if that's the reason for our slight wiring variations. I was under the impression that Tesla was putting the FSD computer in ALL cars, just not enabling the feature unless you pay. However, I just read a report on Electrek.co that implied you would have to get a computer change if you upgraded to FSD after delivery.
Tesla reintroduces 'Enhanced Autopilot' — offering cheaper alternative to 'Full Self-Driving' - Electrek
You didn't get FSD on your car, right? I did; I wonder if that's the reason for our slight wiring variations. I was under the impression that Tesla was putting the FSD computer in ALL cars, just not enabling the feature unless you pay. However, I just read a report on Electrek.co that implied you would have to get a computer change if you upgraded to FSD after delivery.
Tesla reintroduces 'Enhanced Autopilot' — offering cheaper alternative to 'Full Self-Driving' - Electrek
At the time I did my installation, I could not find any installation that had used switched power from the mirror. I had read it was unswitched. I saw the other thread about a successful mirror-based installation. I sure wouldn't tap through a wire, but using the power-tap with the probe into the connector sounds good, and I used that on my last car.
joe.smith
Member
I'm curious, does your RADAR detector shut off when you leave the car? I didn't think this power source was switched, although you said specifically it's a "switched mirror source." It'd be nice (for someone else's benefit) to have confirmation of this. If it's not, you probably won't risk of draining the battery but I just don't want my detector on all of the time.
Admittedly, wiring to the mirror would be easier, but running your wire down that A-pillar is not difficult at all. You don't even have to remove the A-pillar, just loosen the screw and pivot it some. There's no risk of interfering with the airbag, either.
It's a good thing if there are multiple ways to get the detector on switched power...
joe.smith
Member
I know this is old but I just purchased my 2015 MS 85D Feb 27 2021. I own 1st gen V1 and Uniden R3 and would love to use either because I find the speed of this vehicle can climb to in such short time when getting around congested drivers..but please tell me your experiences and solutions for windshield radarI successfully mounted my Valentine One radar detector to the top of the front windshield near the mirror, and ran the wires under the front headliner, down the A pillar side curtain airbag inner wiring channel, and connected to the fuse box in the passenger kick panel. My June, 2020 Model S does not have any metallic coating on the front windshield. Works great, turning on and off with the car, and has an excellent view of front, rear and side radar sources. Gathering the preliminary information was difficult for me, and I can post more detailed information if anyone wants to install any 12V accessory high on the windshield while safely hiding wires. Install at your own risk.
I mounted the V1 detector using the supplied suction cup mounts immediately to the right of the mirror. Be careful, because your car may have a metallic film on the windshield. Even then, it may have a square area where I mounted the detector without the film. Check for this area outside in the sun. Maybe your car does not have the metallic coating. My June 2020 does not have any metallic coating. It is easy to loosen the two visor mounts and run the valentine supplied cable under the front edge of the headliner to the right corner. I was suprised to find the right A pillar inside where the airbag is has specific lanes for wires to run across it, and is easily removed with the screw (bolt?) behind the airbag symbol in the center of the post. You do not have to remove anything just to run the wire in the channel with the existing factory wires. Then it is easy to go down the right side of the dash to the right floor kickpanel, where the passenger kickpanel fuse box is. There is a 15 A fuse about 4 fuses down (depending on your fusebox) on the left side of the fuse panel. I added a tap-a-fuse and connected the Valentine connector with its fuse. The circuit turns off when the door is closed as you exit the vehicle, and comes on as you enter the vehicle. It does not draw power when the car is off.
2015 Fuse Box (F207 is the best fuse)
Not my photo:
2015 Fuse Box (F207 is the best fuse)
Not my photo:
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joe.smith
Member
I followed DerbyDave's instructions when I mounted my V1 Gen 2 in my 2020 Model S. I haven't had any issues and it works seamlessly. Additionally, I pick up detections when I should in front of or behind the vehicle.
No, the cover is not connected to the airbag. You do not have to remove the pillar cover completely ( the part down by the dash) to run wires in the factory provided wire channels. The cover seemed very safe to remove for me. I wouldn't fool with the airbag itself, which is embeded in the A Pillar, not the cover.
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