Help Sub wiring Question UHFS

[treowx]

Upgraded to LH Amp and Soundqubed Sub just picked up an NVX Sub and sound isn’t much better. Factory sub sounded the best so far with LH Amp. I did notice after plugging everything back in this time the wires look factory crossed. Is this possible? 2014 Model S P85 with UHFS. Sub is currently wired using the red/grey wire as positive. Any input before I pull it all apart again or re-pin the connector. Or is this wired correctly and I’m just expecting too much from the Amp upgrade?

 

[treowx]

Yes the plug only goes in one way.

 

[EVortex]

Yes, it plugs-in only one way, but are factory the wire connectors plugged into the sub correctly? Did you break-in the SQ and wire it in parallel when you tried it? Was the SQ HDS2.1 or HDS2.2?

 

[treowx]

Yes sub was broken in properly. I took the factory plug cut it and useD the + and - from Factory sub + being Grey and red negative being solid grey. My issue comes when you marry the two harness it looks like the wires get flipped which does not make sense as wire flow is usually consistent. That’s what I’m trying to find out is does the wire flip colors and line going back to the amp where the blue with black wire becomes ground and then solid blue wire is now positive? It doesn’t sound horrible just expected a little more punch. Sub is HDS2.1 bought it and AMP from member here. SQ was wiring to 1ohm NVX sub it wited to 2ohm which is that the LH has max power rated at.

 

[EVortex]

Yes sub was broken in properly. I took the factory plug cut it and useD the + and - from Factory sub + being Grey and red negative being solid grey. My issue comes when you marry the two harness it looks like the wires get flipped which does not make sense as wire flow is usually consistent. That’s what I’m trying to find out is does the wire flip colors and line going back to the amp where the blue with black wire becomes ground and then solid blue wire is now positive? It doesn’t sound horrible just expected a little more punch. Sub is HDS2.1 bought it and AMP from member here. SQ was wiring to 1ohm NVX sub it wited to 2ohm which is that the LH has max power rated at.

All sounds correct. I have LH, SQ 2.1 and do have the bass EQ very high to balance appropriately, but sounds good to me. Not what I would call super thumping bass, but pretty good. With MCU2 the sub out positive from the amp is an orange wire and sub out negative is a purple wire. The wire colors change at the sub connector, but should align correctly based on the connector fittings. Doubt if this will help, but thought I would mention it anyway. There is a test for the polarity of speaker wiring that involves taking a 9v or AA battery and connect positive battery to what you think is positive on the speaker and battery negative to what you think is negative on the speaker. If the speaker pushes out then it is the correct polarity. If the speaker pulls in then it is reverse polarity. Again, doubt if that will help in this situation. I would likely use a multimeter to check things in more detail if concerned.

 

[treowx]

All sounds correct. I have LH, SQ 2.1 and do have the bass EQ very high to balance appropriately, but sounds good to me. Not what I would call super thumping bass, but pretty good. With MCU2 the sub out positive from the amp is an orange wire and sub out negative is a purple wire. The wire colors change at the sub connector, but should align correctly based on the connector fittings. Doubt if this will help, but thought I would mention it anyway. There is a test for the polarity of speaker wiring that involves taking a 9v or AA battery and connect positive battery to what you think is positive on the speaker and battery negative to what you think is negative on the speaker. If the speaker pushes out then it is the correct polarity. If the speaker pulls in then it is reverse polarity. Again, doubt if that will help in this situation. I would likely use a multimeter to check things in more detail if concerned.

Looks like somehow either car was wrecked and harness replaced or it was wiring wrong from the factory. No damage shown in car fax but bought used. Wiring was out of phase, changed pin out to where the striped and solid wire match and there is a night and day difference. Curious if anyone would be willing to take pics of their connection area with a 2014-2015 Model S wonder if they might have the same issue.