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Home made license Bracket under $10

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I have been thinking of picking up front license plate bracket as I did not want to glue the front license mount to bumper. The main reason for me was easy to clean without it as dirt accumulates around the mount on the bumper. Also, want to ability to remove bracket when I wanted.

I looked at all options, some at very unreasonable prices along with bad design, like blocking air flow for battery. I liked Tony's bracket but felt it is expensive, so I thought I would not lose much if I give it try.

I was looking for 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch Aluminum square bar, but did not find it local store, so instead I used 1/2 inch x 1/8 inch steel to make bracket which is stiffer than 1/2 inch x 1/8 inch Aluminum flat.

Material:
1/2 inch x 1/8 inch 3 foot steel flat ( $3.50)
1/4 inch 20TPI steel bolts x 4 ($2)
1/2 inch heatshrink ($4) to cover the steel flat where it meets grill.

I drilled and tapped main bracket to take 1/4 x 20 TPI screws, and front plates drilled with 1/4 inch drill to pass thru the bolts.

Fixed Tesla supplied License mount to the bracket keeping about 3/4 inch gap, from bumper in all sides. I preferred to use this one for two reason. I already have it, and it is slight curve in the front and most available one do not. Not sure if this has any impact on aero-drag or not.

Thought I would share if someone want to build something similar for much cheaper than available alternatives.
 

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BTW, I forgot to take photo of the bracket after I tilted it up. I bent the bracket about 1 1/2 inch away from mount point by about 20 degree to keep the License plate mount aligned. But the side view photo depicts that angle.

I did not have any workshop tools to work on metal, no drill press either. It would have been lot easier with drill press to center and drill holes straight. Just used hacksaw, cordless drill, and 1/4 inch -20 TPI tap and of course a flat file.
 
Thanks for sharing - that's turned out very neat indeed. Will you spin a nylock nut or similar onto the back to prevent this from coming loose over time, or is there no access there so only maybe some loctite dabbed on from the front?

You are right, putting a locknut behind is tough, but it is easy to attach a locking washing at the bolt head itself as it is screwed into the metal plate. I thought of using some locktite too. But I have used heat-shrink on the surface plate which acts like rubber washer and keeps bolt from getting lose.

I have another project coming up, applying the clear bra for the bumper:). Once I am done with it, I will use locktite for the bolt.
 
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You are right, putting a locknut behind is tough, but it is easy to attach a locking washing at the bolt head itself as it is screwed into the metal plate. I thought of using some locktite too. But I have used heat-shrink on the surface plate which acts like rubber washer and keeps bolt from getting lose.

I have another project coming up, applying the clear bra for the bumper:). Once I am done with it, I will use locktite for the bolt.

Thanks for sharing. I been thinking about applying the clear bra on the bumper myself but I don't know how big the clear vinyl I need. Can you share some detail on that? Where to buy and what type? How big? Looks like the car is 72 inches wide.
 
Thanks for sharing. I been thinking about applying the clear bra on the bumper myself but I don't know how big the clear vinyl I need. Can you share some detail on that? Where to buy and what type? How big? Looks like the car is 72 inches wide.

For Bumper I got pre-cut from Invisiblemask. Selected 3M Scotchgard Pro for additional 10%. See the link below.
3M CLEAR BRA

For hood, trunk, and near door thinking of buying in bulk.
 
How well does this hold up on the highway and will it stick through weather events like heavy rain and snow(weight)? With anything making elongated contact with the paint, you probably risk some damage unless you remove/clean it on a regular basis but I personally think this solution meets all the requirements rather well (other than potential theft) and I thought about it but wasn’t sure it would benefit durable enough. Also, where did you get those suction cups?
 
Do you advise to install the clear bra if i don't do highway or freeway? 90% local street.

I think it is still useful with some protection from scrapes(from curbs, poles, walls and reckless parking jobs). Despite I was very careful, on my previous car someone scraped my bumper in parking lot. Not lot of damage but the paint is scraped and it is quite expensive to fix.

I have done all kinds of major repairs on my cars, but have not installed clearbra ever. This would be my first attempt. Wish me luck! :D
 
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Picked the plastic plate and suctiopn cups on Amazon.
I've left it on testing it for a week before I removed it. I don't care to leave it on permanently. I used the same on my Classic. It holds up well. My state requires the front plate, but since my second S in '13, I've not used a front plate. Well, except for Safety Inspection visits. That's the purpose of this stick on plate. Its required for the Safety Inspection, so it goes back on until its over. I carry it in the trunk in case I need to "whip it out" (when no one's looking of course).
 
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Picked the plastic plate and suctiopn cups on Amazon.
I've left it on testing it for a week before I removed it. I don't care to leave it on permanently. I used the same on my Classic. It holds up well. My state requires the front plate, but since my second S in '13, I've not used a front plate. Well, except for Safety Inspection visits. That's the purpose of this stick on plate. Its required for the Safety Inspection, so it goes back on until its over. I carry it in the trunk in case I need to "whip it out" (when no one's looking of course).

I found the bracket but not the suction cups. Can you link which ones you used? Thanks!
 
I have been thinking of picking up front license plate bracket as I did not want to glue the front license mount to bumper. The main reason for me was easy to clean without it as dirt accumulates around the mount on the bumper. Also, want to ability to remove bracket when I wanted.

I looked at all options, some at very unreasonable prices along with bad design, like blocking air flow for battery. I liked Tony's bracket but felt it is expensive, so I thought I would not lose much if I give it try.

I was looking for 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch Aluminum square bar, but did not find it local store, so instead I used 1/2 inch x 1/8 inch steel to make bracket which is stiffer than 1/2 inch x 1/8 inch Aluminum flat.

Material:
1/2 inch x 1/8 inch 3 foot steel flat ( $3.50)
1/4 inch 20TPI steel bolts x 4 ($2)
1/2 inch heatshrink ($4) to cover the steel flat where it meets grill.

I drilled and tapped main bracket to take 1/4 x 20 TPI screws, and front plates drilled with 1/4 inch drill to pass thru the bolts.

Fixed Tesla supplied License mount to the bracket keeping about 3/4 inch gap, from bumper in all sides. I preferred to use this one for two reason. I already have it, and it is slight curve in the front and most available one do not. Not sure if this has any impact on aero-drag or not.

Thought I would share if someone want to build something similar for much cheaper than available alternatives.

You mounted your plate holder to that lower grill.

10MPH front bump and that grill cracks and is $800 ( not installed ).