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This was installed by a licensed electrician. How can you tell improper torgue from the picture, so that I might take this up with my electrician? Below is a picture before I splayed the wires for better viewing of the damage.
Thanks!
This is not a warranty item. The fail was due to the installation or one of the lugs not properly torqued/leads not properly terminated. Check for proper wire size also.
The wire in red came loose or melted. It was likely nicked, loose, or not fully inserted. Or possibly undersized.
View attachment 507948
View attachment 507948
Can’t tell if it is 8 awg or 6 awg, but if it is 8 like i think it is, your output setting on the dipswitch is too high.
What size breaker is on it? I'm not saying that is the cause, but that will likely tell you what size wire the electrician used.
It's easy to set the DIP incorrectly, Circuit Breaker Size vs Charging Amps (80% Circuit Breaker) by reading/using the wrong column.
Also if it was set wrong, the whole circuit was overloaded. Kind of a coincidence it decided to fail right at that lug.
Can’t tell if it is 8 awg or 6 awg, but if it is 8 like i think it is, your output setting on the dipswitch is too high.
fails at the weakest point.
Hey Everyone, I just joined the TMC and it's helpful to know that I am not the only one having issues with the HPWC and struggling with Tesla support. After a year of flawlessly charging my Model 3 at 44 mi/hr speeds, it just stopped one night. Apparently a box fire (see image) was the cause. I brought into my local dealership, and they directed me to onlinesales. It's been 2 weeks, 3 emails, and a phone call to Tesla Home Charging 888-765-2489 who informed that Support is busy and they would get to me soon (one week since that call).
I rely on a home charge for my driving usage patterns, so replacing this is a priority, and without knowing how Tesla will respond I am blocked on moving forward, and finding any written warranty info online is challenging. If they won't stand behind this product and I need to buy another one, I'll likely go for a universal charger with a published warranty (e.g. Juicebox 40).
I would greatly appreciate some help with any of these questions:
1) Has anyone had any luck with getting a HPWC replaced with just over a year since purchase?
2) Is there a better way to get through to an online support rep that can help? (someone mentioned chat, but I was unable to find this)
3) Where can I find a warranty for the HPWC?
4) Can you recommend any other high power charges for your Tesla?
Thanks!
-rob
View attachment 507931
My first HPWC also generated excess heat at the service wire connector. In my opinion, this connector is the weak point of the HPWC design. Due to the design of the terminal block, it's hard to see if the wire is fully inserted, or correctly inserted (e.g. wire insulation is not clamped within the lug) The terminal block connector does not metallically encircle the conductor the way typical lugs in electrical service panels do, leading to a higher resistance connection. This is not critical at low currents, but can lead to significant connection heating at 30, 40, 50 A.I would greatly appreciate some help with any of these questions:
1) Has anyone had any luck with getting a HPWC replaced with just over a year since purchase?
2) Is there a better way to get through to an online support rep that can help? (someone mentioned chat, but I was unable to find this)
3) Where can I find a warranty for the HPWC?
4) Can you recommend any other high power charges for your Tesla?
Thanks!
-rob
View attachment 507931
The wire in red came loose or melted. It was likely nicked, loose, or not fully inserted. Or possibly undersized.
View attachment 507948
View attachment 507948
My first HPWC also generated excess heat at the service wire connector. In my opinion, this connector is the weak point of the HPWC design. Due to the design of the terminal block, it's hard to see if the wire is fully inserted, or correctly inserted (e.g. wire insulation is not clamped within the lug) The terminal block connector does not metallically encircle the conductor the way typical lugs in electrical service panels do, leading to a higher resistance connection. This is not critical at low currents, but can lead to significant connection heating at 30, 40, 50 A.
3) Warranty for HPWC is printed in the Wall Connector Installation Manual. You didn't throw that out did you?
What size breaker is on it? I'm not saying that is the cause, but that will likely tell you what size wire the electrician used.
It's easy to set the DIP incorrectly, Circuit Breaker Size vs Charging Amps (80% Circuit Breaker) by reading/using the wrong column.
Also if it was set wrong, the whole circuit was overloaded. Kind of a coincidence it decided to fail right at that lug.
My first HPWC also generated excess heat at the service wire connector. In my opinion, this connector is the weak point of the HPWC design. Due to the design of the terminal block, it's hard to see if the wire is fully inserted, or correctly inserted (e.g. wire insulation is not clamped within the lug) The terminal block connector does not metallically encircle the conductor the way typical lugs in electrical service panels do, leading to a higher resistance connection. This is not critical at low currents, but can lead to significant connection heating at 30, 40, 50 A.
3) Warranty for HPWC is printed in the Wall Connector Installation Manual. You didn't throw that out did you?
60amp
I took a careful look at the terminal block after my first experience, and the wire connection is actually formed between two flat metal plates top and bottom of the captive wire, which are compressed by the terminal block screw. Definitely not "encircled" by metal, which would require metal on four sides, or a circular cavity into which the wire is terminated. I was not impressed with this terminal block for high current connections.Agreed and the Gen 3 Wall Connector is completely redesigned. But I think conductor is "metallically encircled", but it's just very hard to see/confirm it's nicely clamped. Also if you use the "riser" / "extension" you use their jumper wires from the back to the front, which have nice termination. But unless you route those wires perfectly one comes up short. I had to redo it several times to get them to reach and fully insert. The OP install here does not look like the riser was used (which is optional).
I took a careful look at the terminal block after my first experience, and the wire connection is actually formed between two flat metal plates top and bottom of the captive wire, which are compressed by the terminal block screw. Definitely not "encircled" by metal, which would require metal on four sides, or a circular cavity into which the wire is terminated. I was not impressed with this terminal block for high current connections.
I did not use the "riser", and OP here did not either, as seen from his pics. The riser has square ferrules terminating the end of the highly stranded wires that are placed inside the HPWC terminal block.
Circular lugs usually have a circularly-shaped hole in a block of aluminum, with a screw piercing at a right angle to the circular hole, and squeezing down into the wire. It has the advantage that the screw actually separates the strands and squeezes them against the circular wall of the aluminum block, thereby enlarging the contact area between wire and lug/screw, as well as increasing the local force on the wire strands, which also improves the contact area (because copper is somewhat malleable). A've attached a picture of an uncaptured lug from my electrical panel that's UL-rated for 00 to 4 AWG wire, a pretty wide range of wire size. Other similar lugs are rated for 6 to 14 AWG, also a pretty wide range of wire size.I agree they are usually “cupped” and I didn’t notice they were flat, but I’ve seen flat ones before. It would be hard to come up with a cup size that works for such a wide range of wire sizes it supports. Even if cupped (and it would have to a shallow cup) it would still not contact much on the sides. Only way to get more contact would be a very narrow range of wire size. And have it confirm to that size.
Flat probably isn’t to bad with stranded wire as well. But wouldn’t be very good with solid.
I recall seeing some lugs for other applications where you had an assortment of “cups” flat on one side and cupped on the other that you pop in.
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