Installing a Wall Connector (or a 14-50) on a Full Breaker Panel question

[Jxtheone]

So my breaker box doesn't have enough space to add another (and too costly to run a new wire from it anyway) so the electrician suggested to use the wire thats already outside that goes to the AC unit and attach it to a new smaller box and an inverter, then connect the AC from there and run a new wire to where I'm going to install the Wall Charger.

Now the AC unit is attached to a 60amp breaker, but the electrician says the AC is only using up to 13 Amps, so I have 47 free to use. Does that sound right? Can I set up the Wall Connector to 40 amps then?

Any info/guidance/further details on this would be helpful.

 

[SSedan]

There are slim or tandem breakers available for some breaker boxes, might be an option.

Far as the AC is he talking a sub-panel or is there already a sub-panel?

 

[mongo]

So my breaker box doesn't have enough space to add another (and too costly to run a new wire from it anyway) so the electrician suggested to use the wire thats already outside that goes to the AC unit and attach it to a new smaller box and an inverter, then connect the AC from there and run a new wire to where I'm going to install the Wall Charger.

Now the AC unit is attached to a 60amp breaker, but the electrician says the AC is only using up to 13 Amps, so I have 47 free to use. Does that sound right? Can I set up the Wall Connector to 40 amps then?

Any info/guidance/further details on this would be helpful.

Sounds mostly wrong.

For AC, starting amps are much higher than running amps. If you tried to charge and the AC kicked on, it could pop the breaker.

Even if it didn't, EV charging is concidered a continuous load, so the circuit must be rated at 125% of the charge current. 48A is the max for a 60 Amp circuit. If the AC is specified for a less than 60A curcuit, it might be possible to put a subpanel inline. Do you have the model # for the outdoor unit?

 

[animorph]

Yes, the HPWC can be set for just about any breaker size. You could set it to 40A breaker size to use up most of your 47 free amps.

That said, you should do a load calculation (available online) to see if the electrical panel can handle the extra HWPC load, and investigate the A/C requirements. Sharing that A/C circuit sounds pretty risky, and something you might have to fix when selling the house. Slim or tandem breakers to make room for a new breaker would be much better.

 

[Jxtheone]

Would slim or tandem breakers require new wiring from the main panel to the wall connector? The issue with the main panel is that it’s in a closet in room (in an apartment/condominium I own), so not so easily accessible, and adding any new wires to it would require to break through the wall, and possibly the floor if not the roof to run the wire all way through.

 

[Jxtheone]

This is the box that’s already there (is that a sub panel?) and the AC unit info.

 

[TexasEV]

I suggest you find another electrician. An EV can not share the “spare amps” of a circuit. It needs its own circuit.

 

[P85_DA]

This is the box that’s already there (is that a sub panel?) and the AC unit info.

Looks like local disconnect for ur AC

 

[Jxtheone]

Based on that AC unit info and since it says min 45Amps, could that 60amp connection be somehow split to 45amps for the AC unit, and 15amps to the Wall Connector?

15amps at 240V should be plenty for me for daily use, even just a regular 5-15 outlet may me just enough and occasional go supercharge if needed for long trips (20mi daily commute to work total).

But reason for getting a Wall Connector is to not have to take out the cable every day and connect/disconnect etc, and if I buy a spare cable to leave plugged in, I'm afraid someone may steal it (very low prob, but could easily be done while not charging/connected to car).

 

[Jxtheone]

Or would the only solution to this be to connect it in such a way that I only charge car while AC is off (which I can do manually)?

I could once or twice a week, turn off the AC and charge the car for a few hours. AC doesn't need run 24/7.

 

[mongo]

The AC needs at least a 45 Amp circuit, 15 Amp @ 80% continuous load derating would be a 12Amp charge rate.

Or would the only solution to this be to connect it in such a way that I only charge car while AC is off (which I can do manually)?

I could once or twice a week, turn off the AC and charge the car for a few hours. AC doesn't need run 24/7.

That might be feasible (not sure if code legal) using a generator transfer panel such as Reliance TRB0606-P Transfer Switch (60A/60A)
If you do something like this, only switch between loads when AC and charging are both inactive.

 

[nwdiver]

Would slim or tandem breakers require new wiring from the main panel to the wall connector? The issue with the main panel is that it’s in a closet in room (in an apartment/condominium I own), so not so easily accessible, and adding any new wires to it would require to break through the wall, and possibly the floor if not the roof to run the wire all way through.

Where's your meter base? You might be able to add a sub panel to your meter base.

 

[Jxtheone]

Where's your meter base? You might be able to add a sub panel to your meter base.

My Meter base is inside one of the room's closet in the apartment/condo and in the second floor.

 

[nwdiver]

My Meter base is inside one of the room's closet in the apartment/condo and in the second floor.

Weird... how do they read it? It's not publicly accessible?

 

[Jxtheone]

Weird... how do they read it? It's not publicly accessible?

Oh, you mean like the circle one with the number of watts, lol. Thats outside close to where the AC unit is located.

 

[nwdiver]

Oh, you mean like the circle one with the number of watts, lol. Thats outside close to where the AC unit is located.

LOL; THAT'S your meter base... should be able to run a line off that to another panel.

You're in Wild Wild West Texas... so there's probably no reason you can't

 

[Jxtheone]

LOL; THAT'S your meter base... should be able to run a line off that to another panel.

You're in Wild Wild West Texas... so there's probably no reason you can't

Thx! Thats good to know.

So I can add another Panel outside that connects to the meter base? Would it be considered a Subpanel?

Is that in addition to the 100Amp Panel inside the apartment? or would it still be limited to whatever is available from the 100Amp Panel inside the apartment?

Else, my other option is to use the apartment complex's meter, which has been offline for years (the meter base is empty for it), its 47$ to get a smart meter installed (from AEP Texas), but then I would need to pay for the electricity separate and as a business account, which is more expensive, $14/mo + $0.17/Kwh. (vs just paying an additional $0.09/kwh).

 

[nwdiver]

Thx! Thats good to know.

So I can add another Panel outside that connects to the meter base? Would it be considered a Subpanel?

Is that in addition to the 100Amp Panel inside the apartment? or would it still be limited to whatever is available from the 100Amp Panel inside the apartment?

Technically I think that would be considered a subpanel; That depends on what kind of meter base you have and what kind of service. Odds are that you have a 200A meter base. Do you happen to know roughly what size the wires are feeding your meter? I know of a home that has #4 feeding a 200A service.... #4 is pretty small...

You would need to contact your utility anyway to get access to your meter base.

 

[Jxtheone]

Technically I think that would be considered a subpanel; That depends on what kind of meter base you have and what kind of service. Odds are that you have a 200A meter base. Do you happen to know roughly what size the wires are feeding your meter? I know of a home that has #4 feeding a 200A service.... #4 is pretty small...

You would need to contact your utility anyway to get access to your meter base.

Yes it is a 200A meter, its a FOCUS AXR-SD smart meter with CL200 (I'm assuming this means its 200A).

So then, if I already have a 100A breaker box, I can theoretically get a subpanel that goes directly from the meter base that can be as big as a 100A one?

 

[mongo]

If you have 200Amp service, these are handy: Has pass through lugs or you can add a 100 Amp breaker to feed existing panel (is the current panel 100A?, I saw a mention but only in a reply) and also add an EVSE circuit. Note that if you go this route, you must convert to separate neutral and ground feeds and isolate the neutrals in the existing panel.

Siemens PL Series 200 Amp 8-Space 16-Circuit Main Breaker Outdoor Trailer Panel Load Center-PW0816B1200TC - The Home Depot

You can also get a generator interlock kit for backup power.