Wall Connector L1 to neutral = 49V, L2 to neutral = 120V, L1 to L2 = 61V

[Dugdale]

I took my wall connector off the unfinished wall in my garage and then installed wallboard. Then I reinstalled the wall connector the wall connector is not working. No lights on the front at all.

When I took it off the wall I only turned off the breaker and removed the face-plate to the wall charger. I did not disconnect any wiring.

Here is the voltages I measured:
At the breaker panel:
L1 to neutral = 49V
L2 to neutral = 120V
L1 to L2 = 61V
At the wall connector (the connection pins with the face-plate off)
L1 to G = 49V
L2/N to G = 120V
L1 to L2/N = 61V

To me it seemed like the issue is with the L1 circuit, since I moved the wall connector and might have moved the cables within the unit I tried to tighten it but I was not able to turn it at all (it was torque to spec when it was installed).

I then tried to tighten the L1 line to the 60Amp breaker and I was able to tighten that one a bit more. I tried testing the voltage and got the same readings as above.

Now I am starting to think it is breaker but the breaker is only 2.5 years old.

Any ideas?

 

[Dugdale]

Here is a picture of wall connector after I installed the wall board behind it if that helps. You will see a spare wire (white) since I installed 6/3 wire instead of 6/2 two and half years ago, so I do have a spare line.

 

[Goobers]

Did you try removing the wires to inspect the ends? Maybe you need to cut and redo the ends.

Additionally, try pulling the breaker and checking the contacts. If you have a multimeter or something, check if the internals of the breaker to confirm it’s fine.

 

[Dugdale]

Goobers, good idea, I think before I try that I will disconnect the L1 and L2 wires from the 60A breaker and measure the voltage at the breaker with it disconnected to see if I get 240V instead of 61V. If I still get 61V then I know it is a breaker issue and I can try re-seating it.

I have tested another 240V circuit in my panel board and I am getting 240V so I know the buss bars in the side the cabinet is working.

 

[Dugdale]

OK I just disconnected the wires from the breaker and I get:
L1 to L2 = 5.3V
L1 to neutral = 2.5V
L2 to neutral = 123V

Seems like half the breaker is bad, Eaton has a lifetime warranty I think but I purchased through a electrical contractor so I not sure how that works. I will call them....

 

[fiehlsport]

Test the bus bars on the panel, easiest way to know if it's breaker related or not. I don't see that you've confirmed the bus bars are both showing ~120V yet. But I'm assuming your house electricity is running as-normal, so they're probably testing correctly. Probably the breaker.

 

[Dugdale]

How do I run that test? I have not done that before.

 

[fiehlsport]

Sorry - I meant just probe the bars with a multimeter as you have been doing with the wires.

 

[Dugdale]

So when I take the breaker out I should see two contacts? Just test that I see 240V across those two contacts on the buss bar?

 

[sleepydoc]

A new 60A breaker is about 30 bucks - probably not worth your time to hassle with trying to get it replaced under warranty. Even if you get it replaced the contractor will probably charge for labor.

You’ve already got the wires disconnected so I’d try doing as suggested above: remove the breaker, check the buss bars, then re-seat the breaker and check the voltage to see if it’s still off. If it is, buy a new breaker and replace it.

 

[Dugdale]

All fixed! It was the breaker, the electrician gave me another one and I just installed it and it works fine now. The bad one had one side of the breaker not working. He said that it is pretty common for these breakers under a Tesla load to only last a few years, he is starting to replaces ones that put in a few years ago, he said they get too hot. I looked at the buss bar and it looked good.

 

[sleepydoc]

Make sure you torque the connections down tight. They tend to loosen with the thermal cycling and that can cause overheating. Glad you got it fixed.

 

[Dugdale]

I took the 60A Eaton breaker apart (only lasted 2.5 years). The left side is good and the right side is bad. I am not sure how a breaker works but I can't find any burn marks. Can anyone see how the right side failed?

 

[Dugdale]

Sleepdoc, I am heading to the store now to by a torque screwdriver.

 

[sleepydoc]

Another trick taught to me by an electrician is to tighten the screw, then jiggle the wire, retighten, and repeat a few times. It essentially mimics the thermal expansion cycling that occurs.

 

[Dugdale]

Thanks Sleeydoc, I did that a few times before torquing it to 45 LB IN for the #6 wire I used. I think I did that right.

 

[fiehlsport]

Nice fix. Unfortunate that your electrician isn't having any luck with Eaton breakers. I've been charging for many years on Square D QO and Siemens breakers without issue.

But now that you've got a good breaker it'll probably work for many years.

 

[Dugdale]

I sent the electrician the pictures and he thought it was a spring failure and not an overheating issue. So let's hope this one last decades.