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Is my Model 3 totaled

totaled?


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This damage to the Enclave looks fairly cosmetic in comparison. It was just a few hundred pounds of deer mangling some sheet metal and various supports. Doesn’t look too bad.

The Model 3 is all twisted. You can see the left rear quarter panel is pushed to the right and the left rear door and window is sticking out a bit as far as I can tell. The entire rear of the car has been twisted I think.
The estimate does not include suspension repair (which I think is certainly going to be needed). The “node” in the rear has certainly been compromised too. To be fair, I have no idea what a “node” is exactly, but when they get damaged it is bad! :)

This is just an insurance preliminary estimate with no tear down. Tear down will reveal whether the rear motor has been compromised, or the battery (maybe had some luck but if the entire vehicle is twisted...)

If I were @Gallahadd, I would definitely get the car in the shop for a tear down ASAP to get that money on the way, and hopefully take delivery of his new car before the new year. If it doesn’t total out he can always claim diminished value and dump it after repair. As long as the extra money can be floated in the meantime, it seems like a way to avoid future frustration.

Agree on insurance preliminary estimate...my preliminary estimate from the insurance company was $2,500 and final total was $10,000. There was no hidden damage, just a complete low ball. Preliminary estimate used much lower labor rates despite the company having per-negotiated labor rates with the shop I used.
 
I think those numbers are massively inflated... Some of that is surely because of the aluminum work, but labor rate should be labor rate ... I'd expect the numbers of hours to complete a repair on a Tesla to maybe be a bit higher, but there's no reason the technicians' time should be 2x-3x what it is for another vehicle on an hour-by-hour basis. That's just gouging.

Granted, it's 2 years old, but here's a guide from Mitchell around average labor rates. CA is certainly higher than NJ but not in a $125/hr kind of way. It looks to me like the body shops have kinda ganged up together and decided to take the insurance companies out to the woodshed with those kind of rates.

Edited to add: I'm certainly not disagreeing with you that this is the current state of affairs... but I'd expect a market correction to show up sometime soon. To be fair, that Buick has plenty of aluminum work too, and is every bit as complex (in fact, I'd argue moreso) as a Tesla body.

View attachment 494042

They do sound high, but $50 bill rate for a mechanic? With typical overhead that means the mechanic is making maybe $20/hour. That's way below market for a real mechanic, especially for one that has had Tesla training.
 
Agree on insurance preliminary estimate...my preliminary estimate from the insurance company was $2,500 and final total was $10,000. There was no hidden damage, just a complete low ball. Preliminary estimate used much lower labor rates despite the company having per-negotiated labor rates with the shop I used.

Insurance adjusters cannot speculate, they must write for best case scenario if they cannot visibly assess the damage. If they say there is damage, but then later it turns out not to be damaged, the customer will probably be even more upset that the allegedly damaged part was not replaced.

That’s what the tear down is for.

Hopefully the OP gets his new Tesla delivered tomorrow or Tuesday (if he wants to do that). That way he can wait for this $30k+ accident assessment to settle out. Add loss of use, diminishment of value, and various other costs, and you’re looking at probably close to $40k. If the battery is not damaged, salvage value will be ok still. So that would make the insurance company want to total it, even at replacement value.

I’d say it’s up to the insurance company if they want to be married to this vehicle and its issues for life (they won’t know the OP is planning to get a new car if he chooses to do so).

I guess in the end by waiting, all you lose is the $1875 rebate, so maybe it’s not worth the risk, just to cash in on that.
 
Color me surprised that they're not totalling it. My damage was similar, though on the driver side and my repair estimate was $45,000.
still might be, i emailed another body shop to see their thoughts and if they had availability, and they think it is totaled but said can do a tear down to get actual estimate. But that will take them at least a week they said.
 
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still might be, i emailed another body shop to see their thoughts and if they had availability, and they think it is totaled but said can do a tear down to get actual estimate. But that will take them at least a week they said.
Gotcha -- Good luck.

Like I said, $45k
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Another thing to make note of , Is applied up grades , that enhanced the resale value the car. IE , Clear shield Protection ( Expel Ultimate plus) to the front bumper, A Pillars ,Frunk hood. And other parts of the cars body to guard against stone & debris damage. That's $3000.00 that the insurance company should be aware of at time of their installation. Also make sure they will know of new tires and specialized Wheels and tinted glass too. It all adds up in the repair bills . they may then , decide to total the car. Cheers _PTE_
 
thanks and agree, i am not trying to use this as evidence to bring to insurance company. I am in Texas btw and that is 6 month old tesla model 3 LR AWD with FSD and just purchased acceleration boost :(
Dibs on the door trim..

But yeah. Totally totaled: I wouldn’t be surprised if the body shop eventually comes back with an assessment to total it and you should fight for full replacement value and show documentation of all purchased upgrades to get it.

I had a 2016 Cadi ELR Sport totaled on an assessment for way less damage but that car was arguably much lower production than our 3’s.
 
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Make sure the car was towed “properly” ie they used the wheels to secure the car on the flatbed truck and not the “jack points” else they owe you a new battery pack. That is not the insurance company issue - it is more of a towing companies issue but you need to stay on top of that one.
 
Sorry for not posting on Monday but late monday afternoon they finally came back and said since the at-fault insurance company decided to total it, we will go ahead and total it even though we find it is repairable to "do right by you". I had to state that I would of liked to have mine back as it wouldn't cost me any out of pocket like me having to get a new one will, however I did not want to wait weeks or a month for them to just come back and total it. And the fact that since the other company totaled it on their end, that ended my diminished value claim and unlimited rental car.

So I was able to keep my appointment to pickup the Model 3 performance. It is still blue but with white interior instead of black. I definitely noticed a difference in acceleration over the LR AWD even with acceleration boost. But also noticed a drop in range over the LR AWD with 18" aero wheels. Was funny that I had to drive to San Antonio from Dallas and I met another person at a super charger who is from Austin who had to go to Dallas to pick up his Model X. It was his first Tesla so was able to help him with how to use chargers and details about Tesla vehicle ownership not really given by dealerships.

Still finishing up with Allstate on everything else. Thanks everyone for your help. Now just have to get tint again and chrome delete.
 
But also noticed a drop in range over the LR AWD with 18" aero wheels.

Congrats on the new car and glad it worked out ok for you. You should be able to win pretty well on this since they will not deduct the tax credit when compensating you - and assuming your tax liability allows it, you'll be able to claim both tax credits (I am not providing tax advice).

Do you mean the displayed range? Is yours a Performance with the 20" wheels or is it a Stealth? There are a number of threads about this topic here; 293 miles at 100% is normal for a Performance with 20" wheels. It actually has better range and is more efficient than the AWD when equipped with identical wheels (which is hard to do for the 3P+ due to clearance to the calipers, but you get the idea).

Performance:
20" rated for 299 miles
19" rated for 304 miles
18" rated for 322 miles (derated from 332)
 
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Congrats on the new car and glad it worked out ok for you.

Do you mean the displayed range? Is yours a Performance with the 20" wheels or is it a Stealth? There are a number of threads about this topic here; 293 miles at 100% is normal for a Performance with 20" wheels. It actually has better range and is more efficient than the AWD when equipped with identical wheels (which is hard to do for the 3P+ due to clearance to the calipers, but you get the idea).
it is the P3D+ so the 20" with red brakes. I am looking for a decent set of 2nd rims/tires to get. In my Model S i had when I was in Northern Virginia I had the summer tires/rims and a 2nd set for winter.

But here in Texas it doesnt seem to get as cold so dont really need winters as it doesnt get below 40 degrees that often. But I do need to go to Chicago in a few weeks.....
 
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it is the P3D+ so the 20" with red brakes.

Yeah so your 100% is 293 rated miles (77.6kWh). I am not sure which model year your prior vehicle was, but you actually probably have slightly more energy available on this one than your old one if you had a 2019. If you want to see a bigger number (which will even more poorly represent how far you can travel! ;) ), you can select 18" wheel configuration in the Service menu. Again, threads exist around here for discussing the wherefores about this...

Definitely will have to get a second set of wheels for winter driving. I have some Konigs which seem fine but they aren't any better for efficiency really (with CrossClimate+). There are threads here about it, but you can also PM me if you want.
 
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Yeah so your 100% is 293 rated miles (77.6kWh). I am not sure which model year your prior vehicle was, but you actually probably have slightly more energy available on this one than your old one if you had a 2019.

Definitely will have to get a second set of wheels for winter driving. I have some Konigs which seem fine but they aren't any better for efficiency really (with CrossClimate+). There are threads here about it, but you can also PM me if you want.
the one that was wrecked was a 2019 LR AWD with most recent updates that did the 5%
 
the one that was wrecked was a 2019 LR AWD with most recent updates that did the 5%

So according to the EPA, if you were to put an optimal set of wheels on it or figure out how to put aeros on it (it is not easy to do), you actually have increased your EPA miles from 310 to 332 (derated to 322). The car is more efficient for some reason and appears to have slightly more energy available. Plus it's faster. (I am making some assumptions here that the brakes on the 3P+ don't drag more - they might, and it might only be the Stealth 3P that gets the 332 miles.)

Your window sticker, of course, should only claim 299 miles. And your 100% charge should currently be 293; that may or may not change with a future software update.

Congrats.
 
So according to the EPA, if you were to put an optimal set of wheels on it or figure out how to put aeros on it (it is not easy to do), you actually have increased your EPA miles from 310 to 332 (derated to 322). The car is more efficient for some reason and appears to have slightly more energy available. Plus it's faster.

Your window sticker, of course, should only claim 299 miles. And your 100% charge should currently be 293; that may or may not change with a future software update.

Congrats.
thanks. I thought all the LR AWD were suppose to be 322 after that last update a few months back that gave 5% boost to range and performance. I even remember Elon twitter about it etc.

There is a set of aftermarket Aero wheels from Fastwheels.ca called the EV01. I am thinking of ordering them. https://www.fastwheels.ca/productinfo.aspx?wn=ev01(+)&fn=titanium

CanadaWheels.ca - Your Experts in Wheels, Tires & Auto Parts if in US. apparently need to order from this link.
 
Sorry for not posting on Monday but late monday afternoon they finally came back and said since the at-fault insurance company decided to total it, we will go ahead and total it even though we find it is repairable to "do right by you". I had to state that I would of liked to have mine back as it wouldn't cost me any out of pocket like me having to get a new one will, however I did not want to wait weeks or a month for them to just come back and total it. And the fact that since the other company totaled it on their end, that ended my diminished value claim and unlimited rental car.

So I was able to keep my appointment to pickup the Model 3 performance. It is still blue but with white interior instead of black. I definitely noticed a difference in acceleration over the LR AWD even with acceleration boost. But also noticed a drop in range over the LR AWD with 18" aero wheels. Was funny that I had to drive to San Antonio from Dallas and I met another person at a super charger who is from Austin who had to go to Dallas to pick up his Model X. It was his first Tesla so was able to help him with how to use chargers and details about Tesla vehicle ownership not really given by dealerships.

Still finishing up with Allstate on everything else. Thanks everyone for your help. Now just have to get tint again and chrome delete.
I'm glad you were able to get into the new car (welcome to the P life!)

FYI, I was able to get compensation for my tinting when mine was totaled, so hopefully you're asking for that in your demand.