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License plate screws size?
- Thread starter jculbeaux
- Start date
BluestarE3
Active Member
The front license plate frame that was left in my car at pickup had two packets of screws taped to it. One set was labeled as "front" and the other as "rear". If yours did not, you may want to stop by the Service Center and ask for some.
Rear is held with #10-32 Thread 1/4" Machine Screws. Never found the rear screws that were supposed to come with the vehicle. Screws for the front were in a bag along with the front mount.
rfmurphy81
Member
Hi, are these for the rear plate? Tried replacing the cheap flimpsy frame and found the existing screws are too short.
If anyone is looking for a rear plate screw for the new black plastic bracket, but with a slightly larger head to keep from popping through the license plate, I found the following available in stainless steel.
Torx 6mm (stock) length:
SBF5X6SS - Button Head Flange Torx Stainless [SBF5X6SS] - $0.30 : Bel-Metric, Metric Hardware, Metric Fasteners, Metric Bolts, Metric Nuts & Time-Sert Thread Repair
Phillips 8mm (slightly longer) length:
SLH5X8SS - Phillips Truss Head Screw Stainless [SLH5X8SS] - $0.29 : Bel-Metric, Metric Hardware, Metric Fasteners, Metric Bolts, Metric Nuts & Time-Sert Thread Repair
Personally, I used the torx screws for a slight bit of extra security. Not that it helps a ton, but since most license plate bolts are phillips head I would guess those are what plate thieves are looking for specifically. I ended up buying 8 of them, gonna see if I can find a white paint that matches FL plates and attempt to make the holes almost disappear from a distance.
Torx 6mm (stock) length:
SBF5X6SS - Button Head Flange Torx Stainless [SBF5X6SS] - $0.30 : Bel-Metric, Metric Hardware, Metric Fasteners, Metric Bolts, Metric Nuts & Time-Sert Thread Repair
Phillips 8mm (slightly longer) length:
SLH5X8SS - Phillips Truss Head Screw Stainless [SLH5X8SS] - $0.29 : Bel-Metric, Metric Hardware, Metric Fasteners, Metric Bolts, Metric Nuts & Time-Sert Thread Repair
Personally, I used the torx screws for a slight bit of extra security. Not that it helps a ton, but since most license plate bolts are phillips head I would guess those are what plate thieves are looking for specifically. I ended up buying 8 of them, gonna see if I can find a white paint that matches FL plates and attempt to make the holes almost disappear from a distance.
voip-ninja
Give me some sugar baby
Does anyone have a source for getting the plastic bolt anchors Tesla uses for the rear plate frame? Mine keep popping out and probably need to be replaced and I don't want to deal with Tesla service to get it done.
voip-ninja
Give me some sugar baby
Does anyone have confirmation of whether non "tapping" screws/bolts can be used for the rear plate before I purchase some longer ones? The ones Tesla provides are screws with a screw end but the only ones I can find domestically are just bolts.
I picked up a set with 2 short and 2 long screws from Plate Keeper on Amazon. I decided to use the short ones on the back and the longer ones on the front. I felt like 2 each were enough, plus I like that the black screws that came with the car match my plates (CA Legacy), but you could buy two sets if you felt the need.
@Brian95006 My input is for the rear license plate screw holes: I ended up getting this which is the M5-0.8 x 10mm
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-5mm-0-8-x-10mm-Phillips-Drive-Machine-Screws-8-Count/999994840
10mm since I used a third party license plate frame, in addition to screw adaptors/caps
SkagitDoug
Member
Dont use the external EZpass abomination. Get the normal small internal pass (ideally with green discount programs enabled) and mount inside... per manual or above the end of the center console/rear vents or behind the front bumper skin (peel back the fender liner and tape or ziptie it close to the fog assemblies).
can you be more specific here? for the first one, what do you mean 'above the end' - the top of the windshield, behind the mirror? unfortunately i already have a gate pass sticker there.
no clue what you are referring to with the second two, do you mean mount the internal pass externally?
Indeed, multiple threads on that here and on other fora.
You can mount the internal pass:
a. inside the cabin, above and a bit behind your head, near the B pillar interior lights... either in front or behind them, attach to the roof glass.
b. outside the cabin, behind the bumper skin. Peel back your front wheel well liner toward the front of the car, peek inside with a flashlight and note the fog assemblies, front crash beam etc. Mount where you'd like using 3M VHB or zipties, industrial velcro strips, etc.
The bumper skin is thin enough to allow an RFID read just fine.
You can mount the internal pass:
a. inside the cabin, above and a bit behind your head, near the B pillar interior lights... either in front or behind them, attach to the roof glass.
b. outside the cabin, behind the bumper skin. Peel back your front wheel well liner toward the front of the car, peek inside with a flashlight and note the fog assemblies, front crash beam etc. Mount where you'd like using 3M VHB or zipties, industrial velcro strips, etc.
The bumper skin is thin enough to allow an RFID read just fine.
Since there did not seem to be agreement in this thread about the M5 vs #10-32 screws, I took one of my existing short black screws that came with my M3 to Home Depot. I tried it in the thread tester for both M5 and #10-32. It worked in both, but I thought it fit a little better in the #10-32 threads. As a result, I bought #10-32 x 3/8" stainless screws, since I needed something longer for my new license plate frame.
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