MASTER THREAD: Powering house or other things with Model 3

[RustyShacklefo]

You can get a generator interlock kit and power connector for under $100 in parts.

I haven't watched all of this video, but there are many on the subject.

Depending upon your AHJ, this may or may not pass inspection. The main issue is that if the cover of the load center is removed, the interlock is also removed, so the generator and main breakers can be simultaneously "on".

I was surprised to recently learn that for my Siemens panel, there is an option simpler/cheaper than a transfer switch, but which doesn't suffer this problem. It interlocks the main and generator breakers, but it connects directly to them so that it's functional even when the load center's cover is removed. And it's easier to install - just snaps right on - no hole drilling like the aftermarket ones. It's not much more expensive either, though I had to look around a bit to find one with prompt delivery.

Siemens ECSBPK10 Standby Mechanical Interlock Kit

Siemens ECSBPK10 Standby Mechanical Interlock Kit for sale at Scott Electric in Greensburg, PA, Item Number: 374005

www.scottelectricusa.com

 

[RustyShacklefo]

You need to define how much emergency power you need. Are you just trying to keep a few lights and the refrigerator running?

I don't need much average power: fridge, a few lights, modem/router.

My big issue, being rural, is my well pump. It runs off 240vac and has pretty big startup surge. There are soft-start pumps available which might address the surge problem, but pretty expensive to replace a working well pump (I guess I could hope an electrical storm nukes it this summer and insurance buys a new one . Still 240vac, but maybe a step-up transformer ? Another option might be a separate 12vdc submersible; couldn't pressurize the house plumbing, but could provide drinking water at least.

 

[n2mb_racing]

I don't need much average power: fridge, a few lights, modem/router.

My big issue, being rural, is my well pump. It runs off 240vac and has pretty big startup surge. There are soft-start pumps available which might address the surge problem, but pretty expensive to replace a working well pump (I guess I could hope an electrical storm nukes it this summer and insurance buys a new one . Still 240vac, but maybe a step-up transformer ? Another option might be a separate 12vdc submersible; couldn't pressurize the house plumbing, but could provide drinking water at least.

There are some backup batteries that will provide 240V. Also inverters that will output 240V. I have also done this with a 120V inverter and a huge transformer, but I don't recommend it.

 

[stopcrazypp]

I don't need much average power: fridge, a few lights, modem/router.

My big issue, being rural, is my well pump. It runs off 240vac and has pretty big startup surge. There are soft-start pumps available which might address the surge problem, but pretty expensive to replace a working well pump (I guess I could hope an electrical storm nukes it this summer and insurance buys a new one . Still 240vac, but maybe a step-up transformer ? Another option might be a separate 12vdc submersible; couldn't pressurize the house plumbing, but could provide drinking water at least.

There are soft start retrofit kits for AC units, maybe you can find one that works with your well pump? That's probably far more cost effective than trying to build a system to handle peak start current.

 

[n2mb_racing]

There are soft start retrofit kits for AC units, maybe you can find one that works with your well pump? That's probably far more cost effective than trying to build a system to handle peak start current.

It's probably not that hard to handle the starting current. The batteries can all handle big peak surges. Then just pick an inverter that is rated to start that size motor. I picked a 1300 watt continuous inverter 24 years ago that was rated to start a 3/4 HP motor. That was our well pump, down 400+ ft.
But now, given the price differences, I'd go with 2000 watt continuous minimum, since they are so cheap.

 

[n2mb_racing]

Probably not a great brand, but dang these are cheap:

4000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter 48V to 120V 240V Split Phase Solar Home System Off | eBay

Rated Continuous power : 4000W. Standby input power : 4000W<30W. The SPF series pure sine wave inverter is the high frequency inverter with the split phase output. ONE YEAR WARRANTY - We believe in our product and quality.

www.ebay.com

I would probably recommend doing 48V to make the wiring easier and add a 48V lifopo storage battery. That way the lifepo battery handles the surge demands. You can always add a slow charger that charges the 48V battery from your car. Or from solar.

 

[RustyShacklefo]

Probably not a great brand, but dang these are cheap:

4000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter 48V to 120V 240V Split Phase Solar Home System Off | eBay

Rated Continuous power : 4000W. Standby input power : 4000W<30W. The SPF series pure sine wave inverter is the high frequency inverter with the split phase output. ONE YEAR WARRANTY - We believe in our product and quality.

www.ebay.com

I would probably recommend doing 48V to make the wiring easier and add a 48V lifopo storage battery. That way the lifepo battery handles the surge demands. You can always add a slow charger that charges the 48V battery from your car. Or from solar.

Ah well, I always come back to it'd be simpler and cheaper to just buy a dual-fuel generator. I already have a propane tank, so connect it to that, and no worries about stale fuel.