Model 3 Performance Spacers

[Alfred_Lanning]

This is with the caamber corrected to about -1 degree front and rear with the use of MPP rear camber arms as well as OEM front adjustments. This vehicle happens to be on Eibach springs but you get the point. Lowering is lowering.

This has symmetrical 14mm spacers as well. I think this is perfect with the OEM "baby stretch" 235's on the 9J's. If you opt to go wider with a 265/30/20 tire then you can just move to 5mm slip on spacers in my professional opinion. This is a daily occurrence for us in Fremont, CA.

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This looks great, a lot to think about now. I was considering 5mm front / 20mm rear but this looks really good too.

And yeah, I plan to go up to 255's all around once I need the tires replaced.

 

[P3D-R]

This looks great, a lot to think about now. I was considering 5mm front / 20mm rear but this looks really good too.

And yeah, I plan to go up to 255's all around once I need the tires replaced.

well DM me. I'm a wealth of knowledge and information. I can probably help you out in many ways. I'm particular to Aspira studded spacers because it's a USA based company and very dear to my heart.

 

[kimi]

This has symmetrical 14mm spacers as well. I think this is perfect with the OEM "baby stretch" 235's on the 9J's. If you opt to go wider with a 265/30/20 tire then you can just move to 5mm slip on spacers in my professional opinion. This is a daily occurrence for us in Fremont, CA.

Doesn't anything under 15mm require the stubs to be altered not to hit the wheel?

 

[MaskedRacerX]

Doesn't anything under 15mm require the stubs to be altered not to hit the wheel?

I'm thinking those are slip-on for use with extended shank lugs since they're 14mm (unless they've got extended studs).

 

[P3D-R]

Doesn't anything under 15mm require the stubs to be altered not to hit the wheel?

 

[rrfitness]

So what spacer (rear) safely fits without any crazy altering ? Sorry not sure this question was answered. I know a 5mm slip on fits upfront but how about the rear

 

[P3D-R]

So what spacer (rear) safely fits without any crazy altering ? Sorry not sure this question was answered. I know a 5mm slip on fits upfront but how about the rear

It all depends what wheel you have and what design of spacer you want. The information below only relates to what's compatible but does not provide information on fitment. Fitment will be relative to your ride height and camber settings. If you're on stock suspension the setup will be different than if you're lowered.

If people want recommendations then they must answer these questions imo.

1. Are you on stock suspension?
2. Do you have stock rotors?
3. Which wheels do you have?
4. What size tire do you have? Just in case people have moved away from oem sizing.

For a lowered Model 3 Performance with stock rotors my suggestions are such:
20mm for the 20x8.5 sports wheel, 235/35/20
14 or 15mm for the 20x9 uberturbine, 235/35/20

This is assuming you have around -1 degree of camber and anywhere from -0.5 to -1.0 in the rear.

Studded spacer:
20" Sports wheel needs a minimum of a 20mm spacer because of the pocket depth on the wheel
20" Uberturbine, only the first few months of production could take a 15mm studded spacer. I noticed shortly thereafter the mold must have changed and then needed an 18mm studded spacer at minimum.

H&R Slip on spacer with shank style lugnuts
14mm is designed for the P3D with the notch or 32mm of stud
10mm is designed for the non P or any model 3 that has only 27mm of threaded stud exposed.

 

[rrfitness]

It all depends what wheel you have and what design of spacer you want. The information below only relates to what's compatible but does not provide information on fitment. Fitment will be relative to your ride height and camber settings. If you're on stock suspension the setup will be different than if you're lowered.

If people want recommendations then they must answer these questions imo.

1. Are you on stock suspension?
2. Do you have stock rotors?
3. Which wheels do you have?
4. What size tire do you have? Just in case people have moved away from oem sizing.

For a lowered Model 3 Performance with stock rotors my suggestions are such:
20mm for the 20x8.5 sports wheel, 235/35/20
14 or 15mm for the 20x9 uberturbine, 235/35/20

This is assuming you have around -1 degree of camber and anywhere from -0.5 to -1.0 in the rear.

Studded spacer:
20" Sports wheel needs a minimum of a 20mm spacer because of the pocket depth on the wheel
20" Uberturbine, only the first few months of production could take a 15mm studded spacer. I noticed shortly thereafter the mold must have changed and then needed an 18mm studded spacer at minimum.

H&R Slip on spacer with shank style lugnuts
14mm is designed for the P3D with the notch or 32mm of stud
10mm is designed for the non P or any model 3 that has only 27mm of threaded stud exposed.

Thank you for that response.
I currently have a 22 M3P. Planning on leaving the stock 20 Uber’s, 235 tire and planning to lower it using TSportline springs. With that being said would a 15mm spacer fit perfectly for the rear? Or would the studs need modifications?

 

[P3D-R]

Thank you for that response.
I currently have a 22 M3P. Planning on leaving the stock 20 Uber’s, 235 tire and planning to lower it using TSportline springs. With that being said would a 15mm spacer fit perfectly for the rear? Or would the studs need modifications?

you cannot run a 15mm studded spacer on the ubers without having to trim a few mm's of your oem stud. You can however use these 14mm spacers. If Tsportline lowers 3/4" of an inch or more then I would do 14mm front and rear like the picture I posted on the previous page.

H&R Trak+ 14mm DRS-MZ Wheel Spacer Bolt 5/114.3 Center Bore 64 Stud Thread 14x1.5 - Black (PAIR)

www.autornd.com

 

[rrfitness]

So those 14mm spacers would basically be a “Direct” fit ?
Sorry for all the questions I’m just trying to dial it in as good as possible without having to destroy the car.
With 14mm on all corners would control arms have to be installed?

 

[P3D-R]

So those 14mm spacers would basically be a “Direct” fit ?
Sorry for all the questions I’m just trying to dial it in as good as possible without having to destroy the car.
With 14mm on all corners would control arms have to be installed?

Direct fit but only with OEM uber wheels on oem rotors. I always suggest getting rear camber arms so you can have nice symmetry in the rear. I also prefer Eibach springs over everything else. Either way I always make rear camber arms mandatory for my installs. I just like symmetry in the rear end of the car but that could just be me. If you don't get rear camber arms then you could use an even larger spacer in the rear. I don't recall how much tsportline lowers the vehicle.

 

[rrfitness]

I just want a mild drop, nothing too aggressive as it’s my daily driver. I’ve seen some people run 15-20 in the rear but dont know what that consist of. That’s where I get confused as some say it requires no modifications and some say it does

 

[P3D-R]

I just want a mild drop, nothing too aggressive as it’s my daily driver. I’ve seen some people run 15-20 in the rear but dont know what that consist of. That’s where I get confused as some say it requires no modifications and some say it does

Can you define mild please? I'll be traveling for work this weekend so I'll likely chime back Monday.

 

[RefreshedP]

Hey guys. I'm fi ally getting around to install a set of spacers. Stock 21 3 performance. What are you guys doing with rotor .movement when you remove the 10mm bolt. I hear the rotor moving everytime I hit a bump. And I know it's the rotor. As I've reinstalled the wheels with the bolt and noise is gone. And I can physically make the sound when I move the rotor

 

[P3D-R]

Hey guys. I'm fi ally getting around to install a set of spacers. Stock 21 3 performance. What are you guys doing with rotor .movement when you remove the 10mm bolt. I hear the rotor moving everytime I hit a bump. And I know it's the rotor. As I've reinstalled the wheels with the bolt and noise is gone. And I can physically make the sound when I move the rotor

that doesn't make sense. The wheel should sandwich the rotor to the hub much like that retaining bolt would. With that said it sounds to me like your wheel is not sitting flat against the rotor hat surface which is a bit concerning. What spacers are you using on your wheels? Are they studded or not and their size.

 

[RefreshedP]

that doesn't make sense. The wheel should sandwich the rotor to the hub much like that retaining bolt would. With that said it sounds to me like your wheel is not sitting flat against the rotor hat surface which is a bit concerning. What spacers are you using on your wheels? Are they studded or not and their size.

Blox sport 15/20. Everything is sitting flush. Spacers torqued down to 140, wheels torqued to 130#s. I understand how it should work, lol. I've run spacers in the past. Just not sure what's goin on here.

 

[P3D-R]

Blox sport 15/20. Everything is sitting flush. Spacers torqued down to 140, wheels torqued to 130#s. I understand how it should work, lol. I've run spacers in the past. Just not sure what's goin on here.

I am not doubting that you know what you're doing but being in the business for 30 years I have still helped people turn on a lightbulb to a situation or two. I am trying to help so please appreciate that. I assumed you posted here so someone would respond and go through the motions with you. I have run and installed hundreds of spacers and not had this issue due to a missing retaining bolt. Please refrain from being insulted by my questions because this is the only way to isolate things. We have to go through a Q&A to make sure we're both on the same page.

1. Is it only the front that's making the noise? The side with the 15mm spacer?
2. Have you confirmed your pocket depth on your uberturbines? There are two different molds. One in which the studded 15mm will work and another where it will not work. I only have witnessed 15mm studded spacers working on 2021 ubers up until about June production date but that itself might not even be accurate. So we're talking only the beginning half of the year did I see it worked.

When you installed the retaining bolt I take it everything went back to stock and there was no spacer, correct?

 

[RefreshedP]

I am not doubting that you know what you're doing but being in the business for 30 years I have still helped people turn on a lightbulb to a situation or two. I am trying to help so please appreciate that. I assumed you posted here so someone would respond and go through the motions with you. I have run and installed hundreds of spacers and not had this issue due to a missing retaining bolt. Please refrain from being insulted by my questions because this is the only way to isolate things. We have to go through a Q&A to make sure we're both on the same page.

1. Is it only the front that's making the noise? The side with the 15mm spacer?
2. Have you confirmed your pocket depth on your uberturbines? There are two different molds. One in which the studded 15mm will work and another where it will not work. I only have witnessed 15mm studded spacers working on 2021 ubers up until about June production date but that itself might not even be accurate. So we're talking only the beginning half of the year did I see it worked.

When you installed the retaining bolt I take it everything went back to stock and there was no spacer, correct?

Didn't mean to insinuate anything, no worries and sorry you may have taken it that way. All good., Here for solutions. My 21 is a Dec. 2020 build, I have slight rotor movement on all 4 corners without the retaining bolt. Once the retaining bolt is in, no movement. I've taken a video to show but the site isn't allowing it in it's current MP4 format. I'm off to work, I'll try and get it uploaded tomorrow

 

[P3D-R]

OK if you're a Dec 2020 with uberturbines then you are likely one of the lucky few where a 15mm studded spacer will work. I'm honestly dumbfounded then as well. I take it you're putting in the retaining bolt but then removing the spacers completely? I have never had this issue in using Aspira spacers. I think Blox says to torque their stuff only to 100 ft/lbs or at least that's what I see RPMware state on their website. For Aspira we have been torquing to oem 129 ft/lbs and running them at the track without problems. Then again wheels to the spacer also at 129 ft/lbs. I don't see how the rotor can move independent of the hub/bearing if it's sandwiched down all the way. I must be missing something.

Didn't mean to insinuate anything, no worries and sorry you may have taken it that way. All good., Here for solutions. My 21 is a Dec. 2020 build, I have slight rotor movement on all 4 corners without the retaining bolt. Once the retaining bolt is in, no movement. I've taken a video to show but the site isn't allowing it in it's current MP4 format. I'm off to work, I'll try and get it uploaded tomorrow

 

[MaskedRacerX]

If the retaining bolt is preventing movement, but the rotors move without it installed, then the spacer/wheel combination is not seating correctly. I've never seen a rotor with any play with a properly installed wheel, with or without spacers.

Have you installed your OEM wheels (or just a single wheel), without the spacer and without the retaining bolt?