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What do you guys think about this deal. Im looking to get into a model S for a little while until the Y comes out and I can get that with FSD. For now, I dont need to have AP1. I am currently looking at a 2013 P85 (originally) that the guy wants 33500 for. It has 139000mi on it and normally I wouldnt give it a second look given that the bluebook for it is around 24k. The thing is, he says that in the last 9k miles the cars battery was replaced with a new P90 and the DU was also replaced along with suspension links MCU, driver cluster and a few other things. That means that technically the new battery and DU have under 9k miles on them. Do you guys think this is something I should look into, or should I try to talk him down. The battery warranty was not extended as a result of this, but still has the remainder of the warranty left? Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated as I dont have much experience knowing what are other things that could have wear over 139k miles, and whether I should entertain this as a possibility.
 
I have considered it, but residual value is a big deal and the S's dont seem to have much left to fall while new mass produced 3's certainly do. Plus (and i know this is superficial) but Im really not a huge fan of the looks of the model 3.
 
Good point.

You should have the remainder of the battery and powertrain warranty (8 years unlimited miles) so that should get you to 2021. Since battery, drive unit, MCU, and instrument display were replaced, that sort of covers the items that are most likely to fail. The only other items that could fail are the touchscreen, door handles, liftgate cinch mechanism, and HVAC. I use to have a 2013 P85 and it was pretty good. Of course 2014 cars have more refinements but cost more.
 
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All the major stuff is covered with that S you found and it has a better warranty than the Model 3, now that you have the new battery, drivetrain and MCU. Other things that fail can all be bought of ebay pretty cheap DC to DC converter through Tesla is $2200 (including install), can be found for $500 on ebay. New 12 volt battery might cost you $400 if you spring for the best Lithium Ion one on the market or get the cheap lead acid one for $200, door handle parts $70, beyond that most of the stuff has already been tested for you. I would still lowball the offer to the S guy - the car still has 140K miles on the drive train, suspension, seats, body, etc. He didn't pay anything for those warranty covered items so $25K to $26K would be a reasonable offer.
 
I would still lowball the offer to the S guy - the car still has 140K miles on the drive train, suspension, seats, body, etc. He didn't pay anything for those warranty covered items so $25K to $26K would be a reasonable offer.

Agree. He's marketing the car like the new battery and drive unit are a significant value add. Nice they've already been done, but he didn't pay a dime for them.
 
Agree. He's marketing the car like the new battery and drive unit are a significant value add. Nice they've already been done, but he didn't pay a dime for them.
Also all Model S's within the 8 year window comes with this perk, you shouldn't pay extra for it. Ask him the in service date and see if the battery and powertrain will be covered during your ownership timeline (8 years from inservice date) . The Y should come out on time since it's just a 3 with a hatchback design and more room aka a Crossover vs Midsize SUV.

Also Tesla doesn't usually put a new battery in, its a remanufactured battery, you can tell by looking at the serial # located on the passenger side wheel well.
Decoding Your Tesla Battery Pack Version

According to the TMC Wiki that tracks Tesla battery pack part numbers, the basic pack versions can be decoded through the following:

There’s a large variation of part numbers which may contain notable differences that the community has yet to identify. Or it may simply be an indicator for a refurbished pack versus a factory new one.

This post below only applies to P90D's: (sorry)
"A" "B" and "C" are meaningless when discussing the P90D battery. The correct terms are "V1" "V2" "V3."

If your car has a V1 battery. It is limited to 1500amps, whereas V2 and V3 are 1600amps. The maximum recorded output of the V1 battery is approximately 450, whereas V2 is roughly 495 and V3 is approximately 525+. As I have read, this equates to a performance difference of roughly 75hp.
Source: P90D Battery Pack
 
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