This car looks awesome but I want/need a D model. I,live in Boise and we get snow so I would feel safer with amD.
Also it has autopilot which is a must for me
Also it has autopilot which is a must for me
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Newbie looking to buy a Tesla S
- Thread starter BoiseBruin
- Start date
I have read a lot of people want or high;y suggesting the warranty.. are there a lot of high cost maintenance issues with the D?
Also what is a better “deal”... a late 2015 Same optioned S with 32k miles less miles or a late 2014 42k miles same optioned S?
Thanks for all the feedback
Also what is a better “deal”... a late 2015 Same optioned S with 32k miles less miles or a late 2014 42k miles same optioned S?
Thanks for all the feedback
arcus
Active Member
While the general maintenance cost of Tesla might be lower as compared to ICE, it will start showing the signs of aging eventually. Plus, it is a sophisticated computer on wheels, so there's a number of other things that might malfunction down the road. Will that happen? Or most importantly, will that happen to your particular car? It's a gamble or calculated risk - whichever you want to call it.
I was in a similar boat, really looking for a pre-owned vehicle. The ones on the market with low mileage and equipment that I wanted were getting awfully close in price to a new inventory model (which I edned up buying at the end). Yes, it was ultimately more expensive to buy a new car, but I have a piece of mind knowing that everything is covered under waranty and I have now (then) current version of technology in it.
Are you going to use the performance mode for drag racing or just for occasional "show off"? If the latter (and there's nothing wrong with that!) I would strongly suggest to drive both an older P model and brand new non-P model. Then make your judgement based on experience. Most of the people will not be able to tell the difference anyway, the acceleration will put the smile on their faces even in the standard 75.
Ultimately, it is your preferrence and choice
I was in a similar boat, really looking for a pre-owned vehicle. The ones on the market with low mileage and equipment that I wanted were getting awfully close in price to a new inventory model (which I edned up buying at the end). Yes, it was ultimately more expensive to buy a new car, but I have a piece of mind knowing that everything is covered under waranty and I have now (then) current version of technology in it.
Are you going to use the performance mode for drag racing or just for occasional "show off"? If the latter (and there's nothing wrong with that!) I would strongly suggest to drive both an older P model and brand new non-P model. Then make your judgement based on experience. Most of the people will not be able to tell the difference anyway, the acceleration will put the smile on their faces even in the standard 75.
Ultimately, it is your preferrence and choice
HankLloydRight
No Roads
I think mostly it's an insurance policy. I don't think there are enough high-mileage D models (at least talked about here on TMC) to know the long term reliability to any degree of certainty. You could take that same $4750 for the 8 year warranty and invest it in some stock or portfolio, and use that to cover any potential repairs down the road... that might pay off better in the end. And in the end, it's your personal risk level that decides what to do.
That's not a big difference in miles (10k) like it would be for an ICE. Are we talking P85Ds here? Because an early 2014 would likely have the Performance+ suspension, while the late 2015 would not. I think we'd need more details to make a call on that one, like what's the price differential?
thegooch49
Member
You mentioned looking into an Extended Service Agreement.....I think this is the main problem w/ buying a used Tesla from a 3rd party. My understanding (correct me if I'm wrong), is that Tesla won't sell you Extended Service unless you are the original owner (or purchased CPO through Tesla). In theory, you would have to work w/ the selling party to purchase this extension before the car is sold to the new owner. These are fully transferrable, but this sounds like a very painful mess (unless you are friends/family w/ the seller).
Again, this is just my understanding. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. To me, this is the sole reason to go CPO vs 3rd party.
So I have been looking for a used Model S and I reached out to someone at Tesla about purchasing a warranty if it was bought private party. He said that as long as the vehicle hasn't been under the ownership of a dealer you can buy the extended warranty.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
This hasn't been true for over a year now.. now anyone can buy the ESA as long as it hasn't passed through a dealer.
See Vehicle Warranty
What is the eligible purchase period for Tesla Extended Service Agreements, and what do they cover?
You may purchase the Extended Service Agreement no later than 30 days or 1,000 miles (1,600 km), whichever occurs first, past the expiration of your New Vehicle Limited Warranty. The Extended Service Agreement covers the repair or replacement necessary to correct defects in the materials or workmanship of most parts manufactured or supplied by Tesla during the coverage period, excluding the vehicle’s lithium-ion battery and drive unit, which have their own separate warranty.
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I think Mark gave some of the best advice. You have to decide what range you want and how much you are willing to pay to get the good 0-60 times.
If you ever have a question about what 0-60 time a particular model gets, best way is to find one on the Tesla CPO site. Tesla lists all the orignal 0-60 times right up top.
Personally IMO the sweet spot on great range, decent price, and a pretty good 0-60 time is a 2015 Model S 90D.
Not the "P". the plain 90D still does 0-60 in 4.2 seconds and goes 300 miles on the HWY.
In addition, since it is not a "P" model, you save some money.
I've seen 2 or 3 CPO's on Tesla's site for around 67K$.
That's my definition of sweet spot in the used Tesla market.
i agree totally... Mark gave GREAT advice LOL....
I bought my + the same way... used from a private owner and then bought the Extended service agreement so essentially i walked away with 6 years of remaining warranty...
Personally I have never ever purchased a new car.. I like to let others take the hit on depreciation just like you are trying to do... 66K for a 128K car is pretty much the same deal i got 16 months ago... So i cannot argue against that HOWEVER.....so much has changed in the last 6 months
If I had to do it all over again i would still go to a new or inventory 75D... George mentioned a newer 90D as an option and I agree with him that is kind of a best of both worlds car. and a bit of a middle ground... But there are so many things in a new 75D that used to be options back in the day that I still think a new or inventory 75D is the way to go... yes it has about 30 less miles in range BUT... 90Ds could have coil suspension, could have solid roof, could have no upgraded radio, could have AP1, the original front fascia... etc...ANY 90D is at least a slight step down in technology. and the new 75D has AP 2.5, center console, new vegan seats, etc...and you get to pick everything!
If you get the P85D at 66K and the extended warranty you are out the door at no less than 75K ( after taxes and warranty purchase) After tax credit you could get the brand new car for about the same price... The "BASE" model is not the same "BASE" model as in years past... a it is in many ways better than any highly optioned 2014 model. Like others said, go drive a new 75D and then decide.
Vanity solution.... Buy a new 75D (with my referral code of course) and then take the numbers off the back of the car....Keeps everyone guessing... for all they know you are rolling in a P100D... ROFL
Last thing... if it is between the 2014 and 2015 P85D and the older one has the + suspension... that is the ultimate no brainer....
Hope that helps
I bought my + the same way... used from a private owner and then bought the Extended service agreement so essentially i walked away with 6 years of remaining warranty...
Personally I have never ever purchased a new car.. I like to let others take the hit on depreciation just like you are trying to do... 66K for a 128K car is pretty much the same deal i got 16 months ago... So i cannot argue against that HOWEVER.....so much has changed in the last 6 months
If I had to do it all over again i would still go to a new or inventory 75D... George mentioned a newer 90D as an option and I agree with him that is kind of a best of both worlds car. and a bit of a middle ground... But there are so many things in a new 75D that used to be options back in the day that I still think a new or inventory 75D is the way to go... yes it has about 30 less miles in range BUT... 90Ds could have coil suspension, could have solid roof, could have no upgraded radio, could have AP1, the original front fascia... etc...ANY 90D is at least a slight step down in technology. and the new 75D has AP 2.5, center console, new vegan seats, etc...and you get to pick everything!
If you get the P85D at 66K and the extended warranty you are out the door at no less than 75K ( after taxes and warranty purchase) After tax credit you could get the brand new car for about the same price... The "BASE" model is not the same "BASE" model as in years past... a it is in many ways better than any highly optioned 2014 model. Like others said, go drive a new 75D and then decide.
Vanity solution.... Buy a new 75D (with my referral code of course) and then take the numbers off the back of the car....Keeps everyone guessing... for all they know you are rolling in a P100D... ROFL
Last thing... if it is between the 2014 and 2015 P85D and the older one has the + suspension... that is the ultimate no brainer....
Hope that helps
Hah. Here's another reason a used CPO with AP1
AP1 is better than AP2
Tesla owner documents Autopilot 2.0 vs. Autopilot 1.0 behavior, which is better?
Good one Mark.
I forgot another thing for the OP.
Confused about what options were offered when?????
This is great I refer to it all the time. Other tid bits like "Where's the power deck lid option"??
until April 2015 it was part of the tech package. Then it became part of "Premium package"
Model S - Options by Year - Tesla Motors Club Wiki
thegooch49
Member
Super helpful advice. I think I have gotten over my vanity and will go with a 90D... I live in Boise so there are few charging stations and the extra range will,probably come in handy.
Thanks guys... hopefully I can lock one in this weekend!
Thanks guys... hopefully I can lock one in this weekend!
arcus
Active Member
TexLaw
Member
There's a heck of a lot of good advice on this thread, but it's going to be hard to answer "what's a better deal?" A car's value today doesn't mean much if you don't like the car.
I agree with getting a D model. That's worth the cost.
However, I'm one of those wackos that does NOT want a P model. At least, I don't want to pay for it. Every MS out there has plenty of power off the line for me (and at 80 MPH, for that matter). Anything spent on a P is virtually wasted money. Sure, I'll take it for free or a hundred bucks, but there's no way I'm paying thousands for it. I'll just never find the value.
I agree with getting a D model. That's worth the cost.
However, I'm one of those wackos that does NOT want a P model. At least, I don't want to pay for it. Every MS out there has plenty of power off the line for me (and at 80 MPH, for that matter). Anything spent on a P is virtually wasted money. Sure, I'll take it for free or a hundred bucks, but there's no way I'm paying thousands for it. I'll just never find the value.
I remember doing the same type of search as the OP...I had my champagne taste with a beer budget. Ultimately I wanted the most technology I could get from Tesla, without having to worry about a second mortgage in the form of a car payment.
OP make sure that your list of "must haves" are in a prioritized order, and get what you can that's under budget. You have to draw a line in the sand somewhere...
OP make sure that your list of "must haves" are in a prioritized order, and get what you can that's under budget. You have to draw a line in the sand somewhere...
arcus
Active Member
That would make at least two of us. Agree on the plenty of "oomph" even with the non-P versions.
i feel the same way when it comes to a 90 vs. a 75.... If the range on a 60 can make it around the country then a 75D is more than enough in almost every application. a 75D is just shy of what an P85 does in range. I also consider that estimated mileage and reality depends on so many variables... to me the range on a 90 is not different enough to warrant another 21K in price... everything else including performance is the same.... Makes zero sense to me... If I am taking a 300 mile one way trip (LV to LA) No matter what car i am in I am stopping somewhere along the way unless you have a 100D and you really like to gamble on either desert winds or LA traffic. 9 times out of 10 it will just mean you have a 5-10 minute sorter stop...MY VERY LIMITED experience with longer drives says that most supercharger stations are about 100-120 miles apart in outlying areas which means that unless the range is significantly different no one is skipping the second charging station 200+ miles into their trip. The LA area is a different story and I suppose that as charging station increase this might be different in the future.
that being said i do think that the 100D is significant enough of a range difference to warrant consideration over the 75D in some circumstances like living in a fairly remote area o if a significant amount of your travel is long trips (which i don't think is the case for the vast majority of us). But the point above was a used 90D vs. a new 75D my vote is still for the 75D. which would likely be the same or less money... so as others have said technology trumps the "P"... I say technology also trumps 30 IDEAL miles in range.
that being said i do think that the 100D is significant enough of a range difference to warrant consideration over the 75D in some circumstances like living in a fairly remote area o if a significant amount of your travel is long trips (which i don't think is the case for the vast majority of us). But the point above was a used 90D vs. a new 75D my vote is still for the 75D. which would likely be the same or less money... so as others have said technology trumps the "P"... I say technology also trumps 30 IDEAL miles in range.
Sunshine State
Automotive Enthusiast
The added range doesn’t isn’t just under “IDEAL” conditions, it’s rated under the same conditions as the range on a 75, it would always be 30 additional miles under the same conditions, you would never run the 75 to zero! The 30 extra miles don’t seem like much on paper (actually they kinda do) but in everyday use the comfort of not having to worry about "just making it there" or having to go out of your way to charge is worth a great deal when you roll in with plenty to spare compared to watching the range all the time. Plus the 90’s can still have excellent range without taking all the extra time for that very slow last 15-20 percent charge. You can fast charge quickly to 85 percent and hit the road. Most 90’s still have the technology advantage of having AP1 that works all the time and does it smoothly. The 90’s always have a good size performance advantage unless compared to a new build 75D, and only at that point the 90 still has a small speed advantage but still a pretty good distance advantage. People with EV experience always say get the most range you can afford. The best find would be a stragler inventory S90D still popping up for sale at a discount, a lot more car for the money. The P cars are more fun but they cost range and old ones no doubt were purchased by guys looking to go fast and therefore have been used harder so I agree a new or slightly used 16-17 is the best value.
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rocketshipp85
Member
Hey,
I responded to your PM with details on my 85D for sale if your still interested.
i agree 100% with what "sunshine state" is saying but the point still remains unless you are routinely driving 200+ miles in a day then it doesn't much matter. Key word here is routinely... I would not spend 20K+ more on a car so that the 3 times a year I drive to LA i don't have to stop for 20 minutes... If i was making that trip once a month i might feel differently...
I would amend your comment about "getting the most range you can afford" to "get the range that best fits your driving habits / needs"... If you only drive 40 - 50 miles a day and you are not one who goes on long road trips what does a 90d or 100d do for you that a 75d doesn't? 0-60 in 4.1 instead of 4.2...
I think we agree that the right 90D is a great fit but the new 75Ds are hard to beat...
I would amend your comment about "getting the most range you can afford" to "get the range that best fits your driving habits / needs"... If you only drive 40 - 50 miles a day and you are not one who goes on long road trips what does a 90d or 100d do for you that a 75d doesn't? 0-60 in 4.1 instead of 4.2...
I think we agree that the right 90D is a great fit but the new 75Ds are hard to beat...
