Nothing that I have noticed for around town driving but didn’t take scientific measurements. Not like the subs are slamming all the time.Any noticeable decrees in range / millage? The AMPs are pulling a lot more juice out of the battery and it's going to need to be topped up much more often. I would assume this will result in some noticeable decrees in range?
Unfortunately the current NVX setup only fits in the 5 seater. The pockets are a different size in the 7 seater.Looking to do this in the seater when it arrives too, but not finding anything on where penthouse is in seven seater or how easy it is to access? Looks like still under second row, but will have to remove seats?
Thanks!!! I’ve got box built. Now just have to find easiest way to get power from 7 seater once here…Unfortunately the current NVX setup only fits in the 5 seater. The pockets are a different size in the 7 seater.
You would need a custom box made for under the floor. Not too difficult and plenty of online box builders.
Penthouse is in the same place.
I assumed the same with it having a lower amp draw. The amplifier calls for 8guage wire which I believe to be too small so I’m going to use 4ga and use a reducer to make a better connection without having to shave wire. They’re useful for traditionally over powering amplifiers to boost numbers but I’m this case 8ga seems simply too small for my liking.What to you mean by reducers? This could be a good amp option to push a bit more power. Please report back!
I’m making an attempt at installing a more “efficient” nvx vad1000.1 this weekend as soon as my reducers come in. Per NVX is has <90A draw and I’m hoping it will sustain whichever sub I choose. And thanks everyone for all the input I’ve been searching forever and this thread was the nail in the coffin for me. I’ve only found one other thread with someone that did 2 jl 10w3’s I think in the floor space. Have you guys seen any other box ideas for that space?
Keep in mind the resistance on the subs. The NVX amp puts out 1000 watts at 1ohm and the JL amp is 500 at 2ohm, and is not 1 ohm stable.I’m using the audio control LC2I. I’ve had great success with them and it does the same. My only hang up with using one this size is the codes it may pull. Next is finding a box builder but that’s another problem. Also if that doesn’t work I have a JL 500/1 that is my backup amp.
I have a sneaky suspicion we are about the same age. Let the #DADBASS crew unite! There are other teslas running this much power, we need more people to experiment!Right, I’ve been an installer for well over a decade starting back in circuit city days if you’re old enough to remember (seems like forever ago) and I have plenty of subs and very familiar with wiring configurations. But my end setup will be 2 dual 4ohm L7T subs wired in parallel to a 1 ohm load with the VAD1000.1. If not I can wire 1 L7T down to 2 ohms if I felt it too loud but the 500/1 is regulated and does the same power from 1.5-4ohms if I’m not mistaken. Again this whole experiment is trying to see if the Tesla will work with 1K rms without issues. If it doesn’t then I’ll try a different setup but like my fellow bass heads out there I KNOW 500 is light at best.
Lots of people running this setup without issues. We are taking about drawing even more power with a stronger amp, which the Tesla converter should support.Awww I miss circuit city! Heck I miss the Good Guys! Remember them?
Anyways, you guys are talking way too technical. What does this mean in lay terms? Is the NVX subwoofer kit ultimately not safe for the tesla? Haha i just want more boom!
Lots of people running this setup without issues. We are taking about drawing even more power with a stronger amp, which the Tesla converter should support.
Have a link to a solid cap?The DC-to-DC converter that powers the penthouse connector under the back seat can provide 200 amps of power. If you get toward the high end of that, you might cause problems with other power load devices like AC that run off the 12V, but otherwise it's not likely to cause problems.
The only problems I've heard reported are the in-rush current errors at power up, where the DC-to-DC current sees a big spike charging the amp capacitors, and thus thinks there is a short and throws the software breaker for the DC-to-DC, and shows errors on the main panel. That's what the relay solves, it delays/slow the amp powering up so there is no big spike.
Also have looked at this in depth for a few months now- if you feel it's risky to draw huge current, it would not hurt to have some stiffening caps to handle the thumps and take some load off the DC-to-DC converter. Would make the system less demanding on the car, although it's most likely unnecessary.