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NVX Boost Subwoofer upgrade - installed

If you are looking for a nicely integrated bass / subwoofer upgrade for your 5-seater Y but don’t want to take up too much space, this is a great option. The only loss to space is the “milk” pockets on either side of the rear storage area. Or one pocket if you install a single side. You can add the second side later to save some $ but it is a bit easier to do it all at once.


I installed both the driver and passenger side and would rate the install a 5 out of 10, very doable if you have some experience. Take your time when removing panels and taking pictures will help with reassembly and clip locations. Strongly recommend a full system shutdown including disconnecting the high voltage interlock loop and negative battery terminal before connecting the 12V power cable to the penthouse. The bolt in that area is positioned in a way that could easily short using a ratchet so it is best to power down. You can find the process below. It is nice to not have to pull 12V power all the way from the frunk 12V battery, saves time. Would be nice if NVX provided molex connectors that went between the factory amp and the aftermarket amp to prevent the need to splice into factory wiring for signal and LOC power.


Fit and finish is very nice and the bass is strong, yet balanced once properly tuned. Don’t expect “hair tricks” but it is great #DADBASS. I do think these subs would hit harder if given 500 watts RMS each but worry about pulling too many amps from the penthouse / 12V battery and receiving 12V issues. Someone else can test 1000 watts RMS at 1 ohm (for both sides) and report back. Rattles in the vehicle are surprisingly minimal.

Have been running this setup for about a month and have had no issues. This setup produces 500W total at 1 ohm (both sides). If you purchase a single side it would be 320 watts RMS using their amp. The amp is crazy small, no idea how it puts out this much power.

Not sure if this impacts range much but was not concerned about it. If it does I don’t really notice and the tradeoff is worth it. My remote bass knob is near the seat controls. Easy to access and not permanent. Songs can have unique bass characteristics (especially when switching sources) and I seem to adjust it a lot to dial in the desired impact.

Happy to answer questions and before you ask, not sure how Tesla SC will react when they see this. Not incredibly difficult to uninstall if you have to, maybe take 45 minutes.
Hi, I have a Model Y and purchased the NVX LOC that comes with the boost system. I followed the install instructions from the youtube video, tapping wires that go into the amp, but, the amp never shuts off. I have it on signal sensing mode and even if I turn the car off and lock the doors the LOC stays on. How did you get yours to shut off when you exit the vehicle or when music isn't playing?
 
Hi, I have a Model Y and purchased the NVX LOC that comes with the boost system. I followed the install instructions from the youtube video, tapping wires that go into the amp, but, the amp never shuts off. I have it on signal sensing mode and even if I turn the car off and lock the doors the LOC stays on. How did you get yours to shut off when you exit the vehicle or when music isn't playing?
I never got mines to cut off either but I haven’t had any negative effects. I’ve had boats that would constantly stay on back in the day and never had any issue.
 
Hi, I have a Model Y and purchased the NVX LOC that comes with the boost system. I followed the install instructions from the youtube video, tapping wires that go into the amp, but, the amp never shuts off. I have it on signal sensing mode and even if I turn the car off and lock the doors the LOC stays on. How did you get yours to shut off when you exit the vehicle or when music isn't playing?
Hi, the amp should turn off when the vehicle goes to “sleep”. Give the car a few minutes after leaving the car. Mine takes 3-5 minutes at home.
 
So…..i had the single speaker install done by a shop. They followed the NVX guide except they unhooked the factory sub and moved the signal to the aftermarket.

Ok so DO NOT DO THIS. My car bricked on an update, had all sorts of issues with power and having the 12v and the main power bank talk to each other. Basically a software install failed somehow, and it completely bricked the car. After tesla had the car for 6 days, they blamed it on the sub. After some research , i can see how it would mess up the digital fuse or whatever they call it.

it was unhooked and returned to factory. they pushed an update, and we’re all good.

i went back to the installer and had him hook it up exactly the way the nvx video showed, he did ( also sounds much h better with the factory sub pushing low mid full ) and it was great. I went to do the latest update and it stalled at 100% download.

Not to tempt fate i unhooked everything , they pushed a new update and now i’m updated.

As far as i know he did everything by the book. I saw the power tap on the penthouse , so it’s not weird there. Could the location of the ground be the issue?

also does anyone know where the correct shut down signal in a new model y is. i have a feeling part of the system is staying on after shut down
 
So…..i had the single speaker install done by a shop. They followed the NVX guide except they unhooked the factory sub and moved the signal to the aftermarket.

Ok so DO NOT DO THIS. My car bricked on an update, had all sorts of issues with power and having the 12v and the main power bank talk to each other. Basically a software install failed somehow, and it completely bricked the car. After tesla had the car for 6 days, they blamed it on the sub. After some research , i can see how it would mess up the digital fuse or whatever they call it.

it was unhooked and returned to factory. they pushed an update, and we’re all good.

i went back to the installer and had him hook it up exactly the way the nvx video showed, he did ( also sounds much h better with the factory sub pushing low mid full ) and it was great. I went to do the latest update and it stalled at 100% download.

Not to tempt fate i unhooked everything , they pushed a new update and now i’m updated.

As far as i know he did everything by the book. I saw the power tap on the penthouse , so it’s not weird there. Could the location of the ground be the issue?

also does anyone know where the correct shut down signal in a new model y is. i have a feeling part of the system is staying on after shut down

Depends on how good your installer is, and whether he's done Tesla before. It sounds like he blew it on the install, and connected the digital output from the front to the NVS subwoofer. The regular Tesla subwoofer does NOT take audio in. It is a digital signal from the front. You can't use it, because you can't decode it. The only possible way to get audio to the NVX subwoofer is to tap the outputs of the Tesla subwoofer, or to tap the woofers in the front doors.

For great detail on how this all works see Travis' awesome post where he talks about the A2B digital audio bus: Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 9: Summary and Lessons Learned
 
Depends on how good your installer is, and whether he's done Tesla before. It sounds like he blew it on the install, and connected the digital output from the front to the NVS subwoofer. The regular Tesla subwoofer does NOT take audio in. It is a digital signal from the front. You can't use it, because you can't decode it. The only possible way to get audio to the NVX subwoofer is to tap the outputs of the Tesla subwoofer, or to tap the woofers in the front doors.

For great detail on how this all works see Travis' awesome post where he talks about the A2B digital audio bus: Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 9: Summary and Lessons Learned


Thanks! i’ll check it out
 

JaeTheDev

Active Member
Supporting Member
Jun 28, 2020
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1,798
Westerly, RI
So…..i had the single speaker install done by a shop. They followed the NVX guide except they unhooked the factory sub and moved the signal to the aftermarket.

Ok so DO NOT DO THIS. My car bricked on an update, had all sorts of issues with power and having the 12v and the main power bank talk to each other. Basically a software install failed somehow, and it completely bricked the car. After tesla had the car for 6 days, they blamed it on the sub. After some research , i can see how it would mess up the digital fuse or whatever they call it.

it was unhooked and returned to factory. they pushed an update, and we’re all good.

i went back to the installer and had him hook it up exactly the way the nvx video showed, he did ( also sounds much h better with the factory sub pushing low mid full ) and it was great. I went to do the latest update and it stalled at 100% download.

Not to tempt fate i unhooked everything , they pushed a new update and now i’m updated.

As far as i know he did everything by the book. I saw the power tap on the penthouse , so it’s not weird there. Could the location of the ground be the issue?

also does anyone know where the correct shut down signal in a new model y is. i have a feeling part of the system is staying on after shut down
Depends on how good your installer is, and whether he's done Tesla before. It sounds like he blew it on the install, and connected the digital output from the front to the NVS subwoofer. The regular Tesla subwoofer does NOT take audio in. It is a digital signal from the front. You can't use it, because you can't decode it. The only possible way to get audio to the NVX subwoofer is to tap the outputs of the Tesla subwoofer, or to tap the woofers in the front doors.

For great detail on how this all works see Travis' awesome post where he talks about the A2B digital audio bus: Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 9: Summary and Lessons Learned
Agreed. I have a JL Audio 10w6 Sub and a JL Audio Xd-600x1 Amp. Not sure how it was hooked up, as I had a place install it, but Ive never had an issue. Updates go in perfectly, and never have any errors.
 
Thanks. Is there a risk that a software update could brick the whole system? Not just the sub control?
“Brick” the whole system is far fetched. The signal levels are based on levels through the audio settings, so for example if you dropped the sub level down through he screen on a Sunday going to church and wake up to an update that took away that control then you have to reset to put the levels back to where you want it.
Best way I’ve seen is set it on screen and use the bass knob. But thinking the software would damage something I don’t believe so. Just inconvenient is all.
 
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Curiosity killed the cat, I wanted a bit more bass.

Installed the NVX 1,000W amp this weekend. To add a layer of safety I also installed a manual switch for the amp turn on lead and can fully disable the amp when not using. This should keep the 12V battery healthier.

Sounds amazing, hits much harder. Need to trace down some new rattles. 😂

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