NVX Boost Subwoofer upgrade - installed

[Nambo]

Just installed mine today and this is how I wired mine up. Hope this wiring diagram helps. Thank you guys for the info. Sounds great yet still tuning the sound.

My passenger side kit did not include vehicle-specific instructions and the YT video wasn't exactly detailed step by step but I managed for a first-timer. NVX did not respond to any emails for product information or installation instructions.

Some questions:

• For XLCA2 TURN ON MODE: REM, are we supposed to splice into the same 12+ power wire from the amp for the REM IN for the LOC to automatically turn on/off?
• For TURN ON MODE: AUD, do we just let it be and it'll automatically turn on when audio is detected?
  • I left mine at MODE: DC and it seems to turn on/off by itself. Not sure if I'm doing it correctly.
• I'm using the knob that came with the amp. What's the knob included with the LOC for and is it needed?
• I saw the OP is using both side NVX subs. Can we simply add the other side sub using the extra outputs on the VADM1? I'm currently only using one of the output pairs going to the sub.

It's definitely thumping. Still playing with the adjustments. I like rolling bass (like feeling the bass guitar and not just the kick drums) and turning the LPF a bit helps with that. Installation took me about 5 hours as well. If I had the wiring diagram above it would have saved so much time. For the ground I used an existing grounding bolt next to the stock amp. The included cable had just enough reach for the NVX amp to be mounted as seen in the YT video (bottom left of upper trunk area).

 

[Nambo]

Question: OK to use the included 16awg speaker wire from the 500w amp to the sub?

Asking because the manual recommended higher thickness.

 

[C-Bus Y]

I like to use larger wire from the amp to the sub and went with 12 or 14 gauge.

Very easy to add the driver-side enclosure at this point, you have already done the hard work. When run in parallel, the two enclosures will drop resistance to 1 ohm and the amp is 1 ohm capable. It will basically make more power, but spread across both subwoofers.

Two subs sound amazing together. No 2X volume of 1 sub but they sound great. All depends on how much bass you want.

Also, I generally use the volume knob from the LOC but either will work fine if set correctly.

 

[Nambo]

Thank you for the info. I ordered the driver's side sub. The single sub seems to be maxing out (sounds like it's farting). Bring on the bass!

Some usage notes:

• For TURN ON MODE: AUD, it takes several seconds for the sub to kick in. DC mode works fine but stays on more often.
• Most of the rattle comes from where the two trim pieces clip together (circled in blue). I added sound deadener and it sounds much cleaner and punchier.
• SENS knob on the amp since makes the bass sound muddier so I avoid that

 

[C-Bus Y]

I just fixed a rattle on the driver side of the hatch right where the seat recline buttons reside. To your point, it is where the panels meet.

As you add more bass, you will create more rattles, just comes with the hobby.

Seems you have been bitten by the ‘bug’. Next up, a larger amp! I upgraded to 1,000 watts and it sounds great. DM if you want more details.

 

[ProjektY]

Hey guys, great thread

I've had the NVX passenger side sub for a few years now, but I find the bass sounds kind of muddy, and boomy, not very tight and clean at all.
Not sure if anyone else thinks this, it might be due to me having no idea how to tune the system and turning knobs until it sounds decent.

Has anyone found a drop direct drop in sub that works in this enclosure with the NVX amp?

Im thinking about the JL 10TW1-4, but I have no idea if it fits in the enclosure. I want to assume it does since JL offers a similar sub box for the Y they use that sub in but dont know for sure. Dont want to spend $350 for it and have it not fit

SB-TE-YG1-10TW1

Stealthbox® for 2020-Up Tesla Model Y (5-Seat)Tesla’s popular compact crossover delivers quick acceleration and a roomy cabin with plenty of space for both passengers and cargo. Sadly though, the factory audio options offer very little to satisfy in the bass reproduction department. Featuring an...

www.jlaudio.com

 

[C-Bus Y]

Hey guys, great thread

I've had the NVX passenger side sub for a few years now, but I find the bass sounds kind of muddy, and boomy, not very tight and clean at all.
Not sure if anyone else thinks this, it might be due to me having no idea how to tune the system and turning knobs until it sounds decent.

Has anyone found a drop direct drop in sub that works in this enclosure with the NVX amp?

Im thinking about the JL 10TW1-4, but I have no idea if it fits in the enclosure. I want to assume it does since JL offers a similar sub box for the Y they use that sub in but dont know for sure. Dont want to spend $350 for it and have it not fit

SB-TE-YG1-10TW1

Stealthbox® for 2020-Up Tesla Model Y (5-Seat)Tesla’s popular compact crossover delivers quick acceleration and a roomy cabin with plenty of space for both passengers and cargo. Sadly though, the factory audio options offer very little to satisfy in the bass reproduction department. Featuring an...

www.jlaudio.com

Hmm, I probably spent a few weeks tuning it to sound good but really like the outcome.

Do you know anyone locally that can help you optimize the sound? Maybe your factory bass settings are too high and need to come down so you can leverage the NVX sub more? Really too hard to diagnose over the internet.

I can not find a direct bolt-in sub, but one may exist. These are nice budget subs but if I ever fry them then I am open to another brand.

 

[ProjektY]

Hmm, I probably spent a few weeks tuning it to sound good but really like the outcome.

Do you know anyone locally that can help you optimize the sound? Maybe your factory bass settings are too high and need to come down so you can leverage the NVX sub more? Really too hard to diagnose over the internet.

I can not find a direct bolt-in sub, but one may exist. These are nice budget subs but if I ever fry them then I am open to another brand.

Do you have any photos of what your knobs are set at?

I did take it to a shop once and they adjusted it and made it louder because it was pretty weak before. But still sounded boomy

 

[C-Bus Y]

Do you have any photos of what your knobs are set at?

I think there are some pics in this thread when I was using the 500w amp. Have since doubled the power and this system slams!

 

[JaeTheDev]

Hey guys, great thread

I've had the NVX passenger side sub for a few years now, but I find the bass sounds kind of muddy, and boomy, not very tight and clean at all.
Not sure if anyone else thinks this, it might be due to me having no idea how to tune the system and turning knobs until it sounds decent.

Has anyone found a drop direct drop in sub that works in this enclosure with the NVX amp?

Im thinking about the JL 10TW1-4, but I have no idea if it fits in the enclosure. I want to assume it does since JL offers a similar sub box for the Y they use that sub in but dont know for sure. Dont want to spend $350 for it and have it not fit

SB-TE-YG1-10TW1

Stealthbox® for 2020-Up Tesla Model Y (5-Seat)Tesla’s popular compact crossover delivers quick acceleration and a roomy cabin with plenty of space for both passengers and cargo. Sadly though, the factory audio options offer very little to satisfy in the bass reproduction department. Featuring an...

www.jlaudio.com

that JL Audio stealth box is tempting! what amp would you recommend with it?

 

[C-Bus Y]

YMMV, sounds good to me. Both sides on the 1K amp. BassX threshold on full to stay active all the time.

 

[DadRS99]

Anyone listened and been able to compare the NVX to the Orella?

 

[JaeTheDev]

Anyone listened and been able to compare the NVX to the Orella?

Id also like to know ones thoughts that have installed both.

Ive only installed the Orella brand, and will say it sounds amazing. The ease of install is a highlight as well. Seriously plug and play. Base is deep and punchy. Im sure a perfectionist audiophile would pick it apart, but I think its perfect for my needs. I listen to everything from SoCal punk, hardcore, metalcore, underground rap, and all in between. All genres sounds great.

 

[C-Bus Y]

Id also like to know ones thoughts that have installed both.

Ive only installed the Orella brand, and will say it sounds amazing. The ease of install is a highlight as well. Seriously plug and play. Base is deep and punchy. Im sure a perfectionist audiophile would pick it apart, but I think its perfect for my needs. I listen to everything from SoCal punk, hardcore, metalcore, underground rap, and all in between. All genres sounds great.

Orella is definitely more plug and play!

 

[Nambo]

I just fixed a rattle on the driver side of the hatch right where the seat recline buttons reside. To your point, it is where the panels meet.

As you add more bass, you will create more rattles, just comes with the hobby.

Seems you have been bitten by the ‘bug’. Next up, a larger amp! I upgraded to 1,000 watts and it sounds great. DM if you want more details.

Yeah, I just got the driver's side sub and two NVXs is where it's at! The single sub was being pushed to its limits. Super deep and wide bass with two units. I'm a happy DJ now. Now I'm getting rattles in my hair and goosebumps.

What does it sound like 500w vs 1000w? Or running in series vs parallel?

I added sound deadener to this side too. 26 sq ft was perfect for both sides. Probably could have gone with a thicker version though.
Siless 50 mil (1.3mm) 26 sqft https://amzn.to/3LmCYQP

Very disappointed at how the box and sub arrived damaged for the 2nd unit. It has a rattling sound at higher volumes. Waiting on replacement. I suspect it was used since the L bracket was installed on the enclosure and didn't include the other mounting hardware. All the hardware and the bracket were in a baggie when I got my first unit.

Ordered thru Amz > Sonic Electronix and both times the grilles were caved in and touched the speaker. It was very inconvenient to remove all the screws to fix the grille.

..bass sounds kind of muddy, and boomy, not very tight and clean at all.

I found that the SENS knob makes the bass muddy. I keep that knob at zero. That cleaned up my bass nicely to be more punchy.

The LPF allows for more bass frequencies to pass thru to the sub, like strums of the guitar, which I like so I turn that knob all the way to the max. You can turn that down if you want to just feel frequencies like the kick drum.

As many suggested, keep the BOOST knob on the amp at 0.

For the Tesla audio settings, I'm at 0 sub -- 0 0 8 8 8 db. Still playing with it. The mids, vocals, and highs easily get drowned out so I turn those up and keep the bass and sub at neutral. My idea is to let the aftermarket sub handle most of the bass since it pulls directly from the battery while leaving the stock stereo system with plenty of headroom to make the non-sub frequencies sound great. I crank up the output level on the LOC and use the knob to adjust on the fly as needed. Not too much xboost or it'll clip or add too much bass at lower volumes.

 

[C-Bus Y]

Yeah, I just got the driver's side sub and two NVXs is where it's at! The single sub was being pushed to its limits. Super deep and wide bass with two units. I'm a happy DJ now. Now I'm getting rattles in my hair and goosebumps.

What does it sound like 500w vs 1000w? Or running in series vs parallel?

Glad you like two speakers, it really adds some thump.

I had some chirping or rattling sound at higher volume and it turned out to be a small air leak from one of the screws holding the speaker in the box. Added a small washer, tightened it back up and all good. Hopefully you get this sorted out. My packaging was damaged too, the box almost needs to be in another box.

Running in Series will double the resistance and lessen the power, keep it Parallel.

500W vs 1000W. Good question. There were times where the 500W ran out of steam and could not keep up. 1000W, just about perfect. You always want more but damn it can hit much lower and harder. The speakers are rated at 500W RMS each, and you are currently at 250W RMS each.

To be safe on the 12V battery, I added a toggle switch to enable the remote turn on, just turn it off when getting out of the car or when I don’t want the bass (podcasts and such). Have seen someone tap into the seat sensor switch as another way of doing/automating this. Turning it off completely is nice.

Did you leave the factory subwoofer in the car? I have my NVX amp crossover set fairly low (50-60 hz) so the factory subwoofer can hit the higher notes.

Also, the seat lowering switch was rattling some, you may need a bit more sound deadening on the actual switch. Great job!

 

[C-Bus Y]

If someone is feeling adventurous, I stumbled on these subwoofers. This specific one has the same cutout diameter as the NVX sub, but is just over an inch deeper.

It also handles twice the power. A 1,500 watt amp should work with the factory DC/DC converter and two of these could be amazing in the NVX enclosures.

Who wants to try?

WDX10G1.4 -

[sf_button colour=

dbdrive.net

 

[Nambo]

I had some chirping or rattling sound at higher volume and it turned out to be a small air leak from one of the screws holding the speaker in the box.

500W vs 1000W. Good question. There were times where the 500W ran out of steam and could not keep up. 1000W, just about perfect. You always want more but damn it can hit much lower and harder. The speakers are rated at 500W RMS each, and you are currently at 250W RMS each.

To be safe on the 12V battery, I added a toggle switch to enable the remote turn on, just turn it off when getting out of the car or when I don’t want the bass (podcasts and such). Have seen someone tap into the seat sensor switch as another way of doing/automating this. Turning it off completely is nice.

Did you leave the factory subwoofer in the car? I have my NVX amp crossover set fairly low (50-60 hz) so the factory subwoofer can hit the higher notes.

Thanks for the info.

I took the speaker out of the enclosure and it was still rattling. It also makes the sound when I manually move the speaker cone in and out. The magnet looked a bit crooked.

Very curious about what 1000w sounds like. 500w with dual subs is definitely loud enough to get attention from cops on the road and make my hair tingle.

I've been using Turn On Mode AUD and it looks like both units have their lights off until music starts playing. With DC mode the lights are off when I open the trunk but light up when the car wakes up.

I did leave the stock sub in. That's an interesting strategy for the bass frequencies. I assume the NVXs would focus on the lows, be punchier, and you'd have to bump up the Tesla EQ for the stock sub to fill in those higher bass notes. I love the higher bass notes so my LPF is maxed.

At what car volume do you guys usually tune the aftermarket dials? Tuning at max volume seems to not have the subs kick in early enough. Tuning at medium volume may cause sub clipping when the volume goes up.

My settings below may look nuts but sounds great. Total coverage of mids, vocals, and highs at all volumes, and clean rolling bass.

Also, do you guys get audio cutting out, a click, then audio cutting back in from the main system?

 

[C-Bus Y]

Agreed, sounds like you have an issue with that speaker.

I tune around 75-80% of max volume. Where the stock system seems to be maxing out and about as high as I would ever take it.

Wow, you went high on the LPF, most set this ~80 hz …where stock systems start to struggle. Based on your EQ settings, you certainly like your ‘highs’

I have a different NVX LOC with less features. Not sure if it is using DC or audio to enable. I do use the bassX feature to boost the lows at all volume levels.

Happy to showcase the system to anyone in the Columbus, OH area. Going to 1,000W makes a very noticeable difference. It is probably overkill for most people but it sure is a lot of fun.

 

[Nambo]

WDX10G1.4 -

[sf_button colour=

dbdrive.net

I may have to try these if my subs fall apart.

I removed the grilles since they were causing a weird baffling noise, but then the speakers are starting to crack from pushing into the trunk trim side pieces. I've moved the trim pieces inward for now.