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NVX Boost Subwoofer upgrade - installed
- Thread starter C-Bus Y
- Start date
It eventually goes to sleep, may take some time. I do think the car wakes up from time to time, which will turn on the LOC and amp.
I recommend the manual toggle switch to assure the amp stays off until you want the bass. Another option is tapping into the seat sensor switch so the LOC and amp only power up when you are in the car. I got lazy and like the manual override when the wife is in the car.
Good luck!
I recommend the manual toggle switch to assure the amp stays off until you want the bass. Another option is tapping into the seat sensor switch so the LOC and amp only power up when you are in the car. I got lazy and like the manual override when the wife is in the car.
Good luck!
Thanks for the response @C-Bus Y. Do you think this switch would be okay to use if I put it on the 12V in of the LOC?
I read that voltage on that line can get up to 15 or 16 volts so not sure if I need a different switch.
Also, do you happen to reminder what gauge wire you ran to the switch?
It should work fine in that scenario. 16 gauge wire is plenty for this low amp situation. I would also fuse it right at the amp tap to catch any possible short. It would also turn off ALL components in the chain, which is not a terrible idea.
I'm going to be installing the XLCA2X Pro LOC and VAD10001 Amp this week. I only have a single Subwoofer (Passenger side) at this point but I'll be adding the second (driver side) eventually. I'm excited to get this completed and see how it's going to sound. I went with the XLCA2X since it's not much more money, and you can enable or disable the Bass Roll Off support.
Thanks again @C-Bus Y. Moving forward with your suggestion with 16 gauge wire on the switch that goes to the power wire running to the LOC.
I'm using the PAC harness, and it already has a built in fuse on the power wire that goes to the Factory amp harness. Thanks for mentioning this just in case though.
I'm going to also go ahead and add a circuit breaker for the amp power wire close to where I mount the amp. (I'll also leave the NVX one in place closer to the amp's 12V penthouse connection.)
It is only around $10 and might as well add it just in case I run into any firmware update issues or just want to ensure the amp isn’t draining any power.
Planning to also use a different bolt instead of trying the jacknut that they supply.
Once again, great thread. I've read it many times to make sure I'm going the right direction.
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@Kwame Do you have to do anything special when you turn the circuit breaker on/off? Is a reboot or anything necessary? I have a 2018 3 performance, but I'm thinking about putting one of these in place just in case. Thanks
Thanks for the reply @Kwame. That’s good to hear.
I'm going to also go ahead and add a circuit breaker for the amp power wire close to where I mount the amp. (I'll also leave the NVX one in place closer to the amp's 12V penthouse connection.)
It is only around $10 and might as well add it just in case.
Where did you get your circuit breaker? I see one a 100 amp on Amazon by Station for like $10. Not sure if I should spend a little more on a different one.
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Update: I pulled my system out to see if errors persist. Other than always worrying if the amp was going to melt my carpet (runs a lot hotter on the 16v system) lol, I started getting strange errors, with the last one being VCFRONT_a530, saying the car detected a surge in the low voltage system. What concerns me is it was at 5am in the morning when I was sleeping. I'm guessing the car woke up, the amp kicked on, and that error was generated. Pure speculation right now but I want to at least see if that error clears up. I'm now going down the route of just a drop-in 8". I know I'm going to cry but this is starting to feel like tesla really doesn't want you to add anything. For those with a 12v battery - be glad! When the 48v low voltage system is released, that's it
This is a great pic. ON the VADM1 amp, is everyone else using the 2 middle terminals?
I have the single NVX 10" woofer and not sure if I should use those. I think this sub is 2 ohm?
Thanks
Got the Sub, Amp, and LOC mostly installed this weekend. I still need to button everything back up, but first I need to do some work on the subwoofer / enclosure. My sub arrived with the box destroyed, and a small part of the subwoofers enclosure damaged. The damage is very minimal, and appears to be only cosmetic so I wasn't too worried about it. But yesterday when I made the final connections and decided to test the whole system before putting the panels back in place, I realized the grill is slightly smushed in at the bottom. This is causing the sub to rattle, and buzz. I'm going to take the grill off and see if it's something simple like pushing the grill back in to proper shape, or do I have a more serious problem.
I will say the setup is pretty easy, and getting everything wired up and installed wasn't difficult at all. Now I just need to get the sub sounding right, and put the panels and such back in place. Of course then the fun really begins with getting everything configured and tuned.
I will say the setup is pretty easy, and getting everything wired up and installed wasn't difficult at all. Now I just need to get the sub sounding right, and put the panels and such back in place. Of course then the fun really begins with getting everything configured and tuned.
Yeah both of my sub grills came slightly deformed... and they were deformed a second time trying to fit the factory trim back in place after installation of the subs. The good news is the subwoofer grill is thin and very malleable; the bad news is the sub and the sub mounting hardware are not designed to be installed/re-installed often and you can tell.
I had to trim some of my factory trim to get it to all fit without pushing in the grill.
bo3bdar
Member
Worth a look to see if the grill is buzzing, but it's unlikely. For subs that arrived in damaged boxes, there were some earlier posts about the woofer itself getting damaged by drops. Apparently on the right drop, it can wedge the coil movement into the surrounding metal tube, and IIRC causes rattle.
I like the NVX sub I installed for Model 3, but man NVX really needs to get their act together on shipping.
This was bought through SonicElectronix. I would certainly say the packaging needs to be majorly improved.
bo3bdar
Member
NVX is the house brand for SonicElectronix, or vice versa. Same company. It doesn't look like they will fix it, I've heard reports of damaged subs for over 3 years now. They just seem to use the RMA process and don't seem to care about wasted equipment.
I bought mine a couple of years ago through SonicElectronix, and it arrived without being beat to hell. Finally got it installed and running a couple of months ago, and really like it (model 3 version). The main reason I bought it was for the fiberglass box, not the driver itself, and figured if it was dead from shipping, I'd just bite the bullet and put in something else better.
I'm running it with a JL/Audio MX600/3 amp, to drive the door woofers and NVX subwoofer, so at 2 ohms it's getting 400W. And the woofer channels are 75W@4 ohms. I'm feeding it with output from a JBL DSP4086, which allowed me to tune the output for the car using the DSP and damp that killer woofer spike between the front doors without killing the bass. There is a standing wave at the exact distance of the door woofers. With the DSP+sub this now has the punch but also the clarity I've been wanting out of the stereo.
This setup is quite a lot more powerful than the amp they provide with their boost kit. I've connected directly to the penthouse connector as well, and even with an added 920 watts of power I don't have any error codes or problems from the car. I've got the amp set to use 12V differential to power up, which happens pretty late after car wakes up.
