I've called 4 alignment places in Denver, Colorado, and they call can't do the Tesla. 4 of them said they can't do it because of the lane departure info and the need to pay Tesla for the info. I took it to a 5th place who said yes, but then they said my M3 VIN was too old (105xxx)--they could only do newer VINs? ?!?
OK so for those facilities that are too cheap to update their alignment software you can simply give them the specs.
Tesla calls for Toe out up front from the factory but I'd prefer you guys set it to zero toe up front. This way it will feel better under braking where it induces even more toe out.
In the rear Tesla calls out for +0.20 degs per side. (+) is toe in btw so total toe of +0.40. While this might seem significant to many you must consider that the location of the toe arm in the rear, fore of the axle, means that it will toe out under compression. Considering all cars will have front end lift due to inertia and drag it will toe out under driving conditions and then under braking will want to help keep the car straight.
Camber is slightly adjustable up front but requires the removal of the frunk and an intelligent tech who doesn't get frazzled.
Front toe = zero, iirc tesla wants -0.05 but I just do zero.
Rear toe = +0.20 per side, or +0.40 total toe
That's basically factory spec. I have set mine up different and is always evolving based on my driving/testing needs.
Personally I was able to equalize my front camber to meet at -1.0 degs per side at my current ride height. Factory caster at my ride height tends to be between +5.5 and +6.0degs. Again, not really adjustable so it's moot. At least this will let you know if your car has signs of subframe shifting or damage.
I hope this helps.
No issues with lane departure or anything. Our cars use cameras and not radar. Should be no issue.